ausubaru92

What is DAbomb tank and valve? How did u control the timing from the dash? And what is the enrichen valve? thanks

i have made a decision, Surge tank (about 1ltr) mounted in the front wheelarch or something like that. i see it as the simplest way But please any other suggeations welcome

I only have one fuel filter, near the fuel tank:-\ I was under the impression that the fuel pump only runs when the engine is running, via the engine revolution sensor, to stop fuel flow in say,.. a crash. And the accelerator pump draws fuel from the fuel bowl, so u wont need the ignition on I vote on the Fuel Filter Hope this helps:brow:

I was under the impression that the surge tank was needed (mounted at the front of the car) to reduce the chance of the fuel mixture leaning out due to the smaller carb fuel lines, just acts as a small reserve for WOT and steep corners ect. All i need is conformation that i can run the old lines with just a efi pump in stock position and not have problems thanks again guys

Ok, if i can get two working heads, a fuel surge tank and the needed gaskets and have the MS ECU ready to go,.. what else will i need to consider, (no turbo at this point) All suggestion welcome:drunk:

What would you suggest as a reasonable Australian price for an EA82T? i have got one working MPFI head and the MPFI intake and the turbo up-pipe, if i found another head, could this work out cheaper? (take into account gaskets ect.) I will post on Ausubaru soon. There are subaru's with converted FI and still use the Carbi lines arent there?

I found a EA82T for $950 at Rollin Auto Imports, Does that sound ok, they r in tested working order, thats a complete turbo motor without computer, but i wanna megasquirt anyway. They also had a Vortex Turbo (XT Turbo) with single range FT4WD front cut for $2500 Gettin a complete engine would be better then tryin to redo my engine wouldnt it???? after gasgets and hardware ect. Does anybody see a downside to a surge tank, i could mount it in the airbox position, i dont need a MAF so i will use a cone filter. I think it would be easy. and a pump from any efi car would be cheaper also. im realy excited about all this

Ok, guess i will be looking for a crossmember. I still believe Megasquirt will be easier, and cheaper And i think my Surge tank will too, i hope. Im trying to do this on a budget. Thanks for your opinions, keep them coming

I made my own header, I went to an exhaust shop and bought some 1&3/4" pipe and while i was there i asked the guy if he could put a coulple bends in it for me, and then i went to the wreckers and cut off 2 flanges and i was ready to weld. Prepare your flanges so your new pipe will fit snug againtst them, bolt them up into position and then fit your pipe and tack weld it in position, unbolt it and continue to weld, here is mine http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35411 Hope this helps

Well the most common suggestion is the air injection system. It injects air into the exhaust to help the cataletic converter work better. But ive plugged mine and it still backfires and pops so i think it may be something else

I was planing to put an EA82T, not EJ seriesIts either that or turbo my current engine, i have 1 good mpfi head, the intake (incl injectors ect.) and a turbo up-pipe but a new (second hand import) engine would be better. I was gonna use megasquirt and make my own wiring loom, it dosent look that hard. I was told to heat up the offending part of the crossmember and bash it into place:lol: If an injector cant handle 100% duty cycle, that is why i suggested the waveform generator,.. it will produce a pulsating voltage and the volume of water can be regulated by the frequency of the waveform Thanks for your input

This mite sound kinda dumb, but has anybody thought of a trayback Brumby (Brat) I know that the body is one piece on the Brumby, but i have seen too many of these cars with damaged panels on the tray area. Im just probably thinking weird:drunk: but who knows...

I want to throw a jap import turbo motor in my wagon, which is carbed so i will need a computer,.. i am thinking megasquirt:brow: I have something i can use as a fuel surge tank, an old thermos flask with the centre can removed, holds roundabout a litre. I think i can weld up a turbo downpipe to my current exhaust,.. anything i should be aware of???? Here is a crazy thought, can the knock sensor be used to activate a water injection system {even crazier... a fuel pump to pressurise water through an injector driven by a waveform generator circuit} Any suggestions welcome

Some of this stuff in Australia would be great Got any other designs for the wheels?

I cut the flange off and rotated it 90 degrees when i made new exhaust so i had 2 new holes to thread into.

It would probaby be closer to $7K, i was told a story of a guy with a V8 who had twin exhausts with no cats, $14,000 Fine!!! I had the exhaust shop bend the pipes where i wanted when i bought the pipe and then i brought it home, I cut it to length and welded, it was realy quite simple. If you can get a hold of a piece of flex exhaust (shown in picture) it makes for any mistakes in your bends or welds. IT DID FOR ME:lol: I think im gonna go for a 2.5" Tip, it will lower the sound and make it look better in the gap in the bumper

the Muffler and hotdog were both straight through, ie. i could see right through them. the muffler was $90 and the hot dog was $45 Without the hotdog it was noisy and raspy, with the hotdog it is nice, just a mellow gurgle,...

Overall power is increased, (i change back to 4th gear less often on hills) Much better low end,.. Yeah 1 & 3/4" equal length pipes from heads joined in a central collector with the volume of each pipe being 0.9ltr, then 2" from there on with a hotdog and Mercury Hi-flow muffler. Cataletic converter soon (don't wanna pay a $14000 fine) Welded myself with a total cost of less than $200 ($500 quoted price at exhaust shop)

I havent heard of a Feedback carb in Australia, and we also never had the SPFI option, we have Carb'd, MPFI and MPFI Turbo as far as i know I was gonna suggest the filter cos i had similar problems where it would run like a hairy goat for the first 5 minutes, (later found out it was the fuel filter and the first 5 minutes of road had steep hills and thus needed more fuel)

2 quotes from my Gregories manual.... "The Coasting Bypass Valve is a vaccum actuated device which meters additional Fuel/Air mixture into the inlet manifold during deceleration to assist in the complete combustion of the mixture" "To prevent a temporarily rich mixture from entering the engine and then igniting in the exhaust, the AB valve is used. The AB valve supplies additional air to the inlet manifold when vaccum is high, eg. on rapid deceleration" I dont think i have a CBV. My AB valve sucks in air on deceleration through the bottom and produces a hissing sound. I believe this is normal. Is the Backfiring a carb only problem or does it happen to EFi Subes as well? Brumby boy.... please describe your extractors, i am very curious cos i made some of my own,... 1 & 3/4 pipe, 72cm long equal length joined in a central collector with a total volume of 0.9 ltr per pipe. have u got pics?

Mine started the other day, only intermittent though, and usually after work (parked in sun for 8hrs) Is it because the oil pump is failing or is the mesh on the pickup is blocked?? Surely is must be doin engine damage:confused:

Yeah, mine is worse since I put a new exhaust on, (1.75" equal length primary pipes, 2" straight back to a mercury hi-flow muffler, gonna add a hot dog) Pops and crackles on deaccleration, and if i rev high then deaccelerate, i get a real loud crackling and a bang occasionally I've welded shut the air injection flange, and my exhaust gasgets dont leak, is this problem only associated with carb cars???? brumby boy? .... im curious,.. how did u design the extractors?

Ever heard of RAM engines, they make engines for small aeroplanes out of EA81's that output 140HP http://www.ramengines.com This should give you some ideas of inspiration

when i said new, i didnt mean NEW, just meant one is working order What would have caused it to crack? Because it cracked once, does this mean it is now a weak spot or an indication that there is a problem? Thanks for your advice.:cool:

thanks, but would getting it welded be cheaper and easier than buying a new head? its a turbo head, so what is the difference in CR ratio between it and a mpfi head?