idosubaru

i'd swap in a used trans in good working order. shops will install for $150 -$300. i have a good used trans i'd probably sell, but wrong side of the country.

SVX started in 1992. don't know much about the H6 engine except to say that i wouldn't buy a motor that new. i personally like the idea of waiting 5 years to let any issues surface (ie 2.5 head gaskets, dodge neon head gaskets, et al....). i was in florida this weekend and someone was asking me about a new H6 problem they were having that the dealer was not yet able to track down. it's throwing a code of some sort i believe. i just emailed my friend to see if he can get me more details.

there you go guys. nice work nipper! on a side note....i have resisted mentioning this due to fear needlessly lengthening this thread, but i've been told the older 4EAT's at least can only offer a 60/40 power split, but the drivetrain is "locked" front to back. so you'll still experience the "hopping" and "bucking" of a locked drivetrain/transmission but the technical power split is 60/40 front to back maximum for the 4EAT. don't think it really matters, but i see lots of people mentioning 50/50...which i usually do as well for ease of discussion.

having this system worked on anywhere would be costly. parts are hard to find and expensive and few people know anything about them. you will be hard pressed to find anyone knowledgeable to diagnose this system. i doubt even dealer mechanics would know anything and they're going to charge mad loot to diagnose and replace with new (parts are 200 dollars and up.....struts are 400 each from the dealer). add labor and you can easily get to $1,000 in no time. if you're not working on it yourself and don't want to spend many hundreds of dollars and numberous visits you're best bet is to look towards converting. or use the board to diagnose as best as you can and buy used parts and have them swapped in. for instance buy a used computer and swap it in, buy a used compressor and swap it in. if you're going to have it worked on, have all the o-rings replaced that are accessible - they are on the compressor and air tank under the fender and solenoids/struts elsewhere. i've kept mine, but it's been interesting at times....

wrong again, it will work on the newer cars. all you need is the pin-out number/wire color for your vehicle.

that's what i did. mine does no "freaking out", works fine. the only thing that happens out of the ordinary is this....if you leave it "on", in other word the wires disconnected when you start the car (where normally that wire is single strung to the solenoid), the POWER light will flash on the dash. the POWER light flashing indicates the TCU sees a problem. the problem is only in the placement of the switch though - one position completes the circuit and there is no problem, the other position disconnects the circuit which isn't the normal condition of the circuitry so the TCU sees that and flashes the POWER light on the dash. basically the TCU wasn't designed with a switch in mind, so if you have the switch breaking the circuit when you turn the car on it will "think" there's a problem when there is not. that's about right, easy job. basically most of the time is determining where/how you want to mount the switch, the wiring is easy. cut one wire and install a switch and you're done. i used a 2 pole switch with a light so i can tell when it's "locked".

wrong, i've done it and explained it already at the very beginning of this post.

subaru auto trans do fine. install an aftermarket transmission cooler, put new fluid in it and run matching sets of tires and it should be fine. i needed a new auto trans at 160,000, but i abused that one bad. drove with mismatched tires, never changed the fluid, worked that thing over off-road...didn't know much about transmissions back then. installed a used trans with unknown mileage and it's still in that car at 220,000 miles....installed new fluid, new filter and an aftermarket cooler and it works great.

there's a good thread about 5 lug swap parts and details. not sure where exactly, but it's not hard to find. what do you want out of this car? if you want more power an EA82T would be much easier. it would nearly be a drop in, require very little work and can get about the same amount of power as you can out of an XT6 (without all the weight, tight spaces and poor handling due to size). the EA82T is the best low cost option. sell your XT6 parts car and use the $ to buy or build and EA82T. if you really want to transplant, go with the EJ22 or newer motors. if you want power, go with a turbo. the ER27 is not a powerhouse by any means. it's a great motor, i dig the XT6, i've owned about 15 of them. but it's not a good candidate for power. the newer motors are easier to work on and find parts for. the XT6 isn't that bad, but will requrie a learning curve and more time/energy for finding and rebuilding parts. you can find EA82T blocks and parts easily and inexpensively. read some dyno charts for EA82T's, you'll see some great numbers posted by board members. the XT6 ER27 would require all the wiring harness and computer - it is not the same as the EA82. the wiring would be a tedious job not worthy of my time in my oppinion...so i'd go with an EJ22T or something like that if i were putting that kind of time into it.

is a cam follower not seated right? pull a valve cover off and have a look. look at all the cam followers, cam lobes and rotate the engine by hand to make sure everything appears to be workign properly. a compression test on that side would be interesting at this point. are you familiar with the HLA's ticking? is it similar to that? on rebuilds and head jobs the HLA's can be problematic to get back to working order.

definitely replace the water pump if it hasn't been done recently. at 130,000 miles you might not need another timing belt until 200,000. i'd rather not gamble on a water pump lasting to 200,000. i know they can, but on these motors i wouldn't risk it.

it is doubtful that you "need" a valve job. is the engine running poorly, knocking or buring oil? if none of that has been an issue yet then it is unlikey you need to touch the valves. listen to the rest of the group about heads being machined. i would guess the heads are not warped bad enough to "need" milling but it's not a bad idea. the newer head gaskets should alleviate any future problems, so if they weren't milled i doubt yo'ud have a problem. that being said, milling isn't that expensive, $40 per head around here. much cheaper than a valve job at least. it's standard practice on a blown gasket, but on these tiny leaks caused by design flaws...i doubt it. i can't think of a reason to not have them milled, so if you can afford it, do it. i just had a valve job done and heads milled on a perfectly good running engine before i install it in my car. would rather do it all right now then later.

unfortunately he doesn't talk (figuratively speaking).

i leave for a week and look where this thread goes..... not sure i see the benefits of all this control of the solenoid. this has already been done in a 4EAT. a guy built what he called a "paddleshifter" for his 4EAT. includes the ability to manually shift and dial in the DS C exactly like you're talking about.

be advised, when you lock the transfer clutches the car will buck, bind and hop around like a truck in 4wd on pavement, so be careful running it in dry conditions on pavement, it won't be good on your trans. that's why i installed the light. it feels and drives just like a 4WD truck with it's hubs/diff locked.

subaru really should have made this option available from the factory. i have done it, it's not that hard. need someone with an FSM to tell you which wire to splice into in the engine bay. i'm out of state so i can't look at mine right now, but there's only one wire you need to splice into i believe. run it to a toggle switch in the cabin and use a two pole switch so that you can also wire a light in line with it. i installed a light that comes on when it's engaged that way i know if i accidentally turned it on (or someone else) or forgot to turn it off. being that there isn't a true center differential in the automatics, the Duty Solenoid C controls the rear transfer clutches. THE AUTOMATIC TRANS ROCKS WITH THIS MODIFICATION!!!!!!! anyone driving an automatic does not know what kind of snow, mud, off road kind of machine they are in until they install this ONE switch on one wire. it's unbelievable the difference it makes, the tires will never slip this way. i hated the old days of relying on the TCU to control lock up....it didn't lock up nearly enough for how much i drive offroad, in mud and snow. all you need to do is find the wire in the trans harness in the engine bay for Duty solenoid C. that's it. cut it, splice and run wire to the cabin to install your switch and pull 12 volts from somewhere (radio or fuse box or cigarette lighter). it's super easy, i'm an electrical idiot and did it. someone with an FSM can look up the wiring diagram and post "Terminal 34" "Red wire with Green Stripe"...whatever it is, and that's all the info you need. i can't say enough how great this makes the auto trans. DO IT! i have an impreza OBS that i'd like to do this too as well, so if someone figures out which wire it is on the newer generation 4EAT trans, post it here. i've done it on an older XT6, the earlier 4EAT trans so it'll be different than what these newer trans are. good luck, hope someone posts this info....and post how happy you are after you do it. it's awesome.

routing the throttle cables and engine wiring harness would be annoying as that's all attached to the intake assembly. that would also swap around the injectors...so the wiring might need to be changed IF the injectors are dedicated to a particular cylinder. good luck, sounds like fun!

check out the offroad forum hotdog, should be tons of stuff there. there are lift kits, lift installs, pictures and other goodies...

it's been 10-20 a dozen times or so this fall/winter. single digits is about the bottom around here, rarely gets below 0. hard to shift like it won't come out or go in gear or the shifter won't move at all?

it could be alot of things, i doubt it's trans fluid. but possible, yes. only at idle...that doesn't tell you much. a subaru puking oil all over the place and smoking crazy won't necessarily smell at all while driving, it all blows back behind/under the cabin. check your CV's and report back. best to attack most common items, most likely then go from there.

check your axle boots. one likely broke and is spewing grease on the exhaust, it burns off and stinks. not an immediate concern, like anything bad will happen. have a look and let us know. where the front axles attach to the trans and the wheels there are boots - so 4 up front, likely one by the trans has cracked.

two belts

the answer is "yes". i don't think anyone will be able to tell you exactly how long it will be before they start making noise. 10 miles, 100 miles, 1000 miles, 10,000 miles, who can answer that definitively? and i don't think you have "no" oil pressure, you have some. some at higher rpm's and who knows what at low. so at least the higher rpm driving will keep the lifter lubricated and pumped up it seems. but i also don't think you can get much further than speculation on this.

thanks ,and i should....already had another good motor ready to go. but i tore it down and am resealing from the block up before i install it. machine shop is done with the valve job, machine of the heads so i just need to slap them and the cams on and i'm good to go. not fun doing it twice in a year, but what do you do?

these guys have two of what you need (AWD auto non-turbo) for $325, maybe you can talk them down and into shipping from colorado. 1866 356 3924 might be good to see if any other 4EAT trans will bolt in, plug and play. i think yours is a tough one to find, but some newer more popular 4EAT's might be easier to find, i just don't know if they will plug into your harness.