
idosubaru
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so the bad thing about edis ignition is...
idosubaru replied to oddcomp's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
dude that's crazy shat, runs with the tbelt broke!!!!! that's funny in a way. HEY - GET SOMEONE TO SEND YOU USED TIMING BELTS!!!!! someone has to have some lying around. they're so easy to replace and no interference, who cares? is this an ER27 or EA82? I'll send you an old ER27 belt if that's what you need. let me know, i can mail it monday, i'll eat the shipping charge. if noone else wants to cough one up i'll even pull the belt off my EA82T and mail it to you....but it's kind of my "back up", i keep one set of pulley's/belt in the trunk at all times...particularly on road trips. so i'd rather keep that one, but i got plenty of XT6 belts and i'll give this one up if you need it and noone else offers. surely someone has as many EA82 belts lying around as i have XT6 belts. email or PM your address....or PM over at http://www.xt6.net, i'm there more often. i'm working nights shifts the next 4 nights, so i'll be on the internet every night the next four nights. -
Spark/Spark plugs...replacing how often
idosubaru replied to bella's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
type of driving, driving conditions, condition of engine, turbo/na....lots of things probably make a difference. just check them every 10,000 miles and see what they look like. look for rounded edges, coloring, check gap and compare the set. or get torque master plugs and never change them again. there is no gap to wear out. i ran one set with a matching set of magnecor ignition wires in two cars for about 150,000 total miles and they were in great shape. they run 12 dollars each, but retain good spark nearly indefinitely...supposed to anyway, i had good results with them. -
screeching at start up? *** SOLVED ***
idosubaru replied to idosubaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
started the car with no belt, so it's definitley not the belt/pullies because it still did it. checked t-belt pullies and swapped one that was a little noisey, still made noise. it never ever makes it except at start up....maybe the starter? ah...those are easy enough to swap out, i might try that.....after the "have someone else start it" trick. -
kind of snow makes a huge difference. i've done alot of offroading and snow driving in my soobs (AWD XT6 with air suspension, LSD and center looking diff/transfer clutch). i've done 9 inches of fresh snow (not packed at all) with no problems up steep hills and cheap all season tires. but...i've also gotten stuck with wet snow that packs up under the car. success stories are grand, but the reality is that snow can pack, ground clearance reigns for all purpose functionality. keep moving is key as well.
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no, didn't get the tool. may get it later, don't need it now. not sure on the part numbers, but i feared if they spun freely the grease is mostly gone. they basically all spin freely except the tensioner which feels smooth and makes zero noise. those prices are insane. i'm contemplating getting them that's an a$$ load of cash for a dinky pulley. i was trying to help by doing it for free and now it's hundreds of dollars???? dang it. i'll post part numbers if i figure it out soon....
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wish you were closer, i'd do your cam seals for 100 bucks, add in whatever else you wanted...timing belts..... EA82's are EASY to work on dude and parts are cheap. i'm so used to the XT6, the EA82's are easier and the XT6 isn't really that bad....(once you get used to it). i can do timing belts in my XT6 in like 45 minutes. Add another 30 for cam seals and done. i'm with everyone else, do it yourself, it's not that bad and with this board you can be well prepared and get help along the way. dont' drive it for long at ALL. starving of oil on that side and possibly the rest of the motor if you loose enough is not a good thing. and replace the o-rings under the cam caps as well, not just the seals. it's only a few more minutes and three 10mm bolts. http://www.thepartsbin.com sells the cam seal kit, includes the seal and the o-ring both. good luck,
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Head Gaskets, HC in Coolant test.
idosubaru replied to Fuji Fellow's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
if by puking coolant you mean it's bubling into the overflow tank when it starts overheating....this sounds like head gasket issues indeed. are you loosing any coolant? can you drive awhile without "puking coolant" so you can take notice if you're loosing any? i agree with starting with a compression test. autozone has a tool loaner program, borrow tool and bring it back all at no cost to you. they may or may not have compression testers available. they arent' that expensive anyway. radiator being plugged and thermostat can also cause overheating ...verify this isn't an overheating problem. if it's overheating now, remove the thermostat at least so it doesn't keep running hot, that will only degrade the leak faster. you just won't have any heat.....brrrrr..... -
some penetrating oil (PB blaster or liquid wrench - use nothing else) will help the O2 sensor come out. can you get a good wrench on it? i think i usually do mine in the car with a 22 or 24mm wrench, whatever it is. autozone has tool loaner program - use the tool and bring it back. no cost.
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pulled the t-belt off of my cousins 2000 2.5 liter subaru. SOHC 2.5. trying to decide whether to replace the pulleys or not. the tensioner pulley makes no noise at all but doesn't free-wheel much at all. i spin it and it stop almost immediately, but it makes no noise and feels very smooth. the rest of the pulleys (and the toothed sprocket/pulley) spin freely and keep spinning for awhile after i spin them but they make a little noise. not much...all about the same, but you can hear them spinning. what designates a pulley i should replace? what do brand new pulleys spin like? do they make no noise at all and spin freely? try to stop by a dealer today and hear one if i can split out of work for a bit. what prices/advice can anyone give for these parts? i know they are expensive, trying to keep the bill down for her. no labor charges but the freaking parts are still over the top...
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original post: engine
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engine
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how much for new head gasket installed??
idosubaru replied to shorepig's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
unless this guy really knows subarus, he could be confusing something else for head gasket issues. is it leaking coolant or oil? valve cover leaks will pour oil all over the bottom of the motor, covers the cam tower and the head, particularly it coagulates on the rear of the head and drips down on the motor mount...then exhaust and burns off and stinks and smokes. that being said, a valve cover or cam carrier leak can look like an expensive head gasket leak. valve covers are cheap and easy to replace and are more common problems areas than head gaskets or cam carriers. verify if you are loosing oil or coolant? overheating? if you're sure it's overheating, loosing coolant and needs head gaskets then you can expect to pay 500-750 (american). depends what all is done - timing belts, water pump, heads machined, valve job, valve seals, etc. -
Allied Armament Christmas Group buy Notification
idosubaru replied to Shadyirishmen's topic in Products for your Subaru
the 3" lift for EA82 (used on an XT6) won't be available for this deal? just the 4"? -
Allied Armament Christmas Group buy Notification
idosubaru replied to Shadyirishmen's topic in Products for your Subaru
shady, this time around i'd like to aim for a november buy of the lift kit, i have no lift experience at all. what will i need to address to install on an XT6 (or an XT if you don't know the XT6)? just a steering extension, is that it? i have pulled motors, transmissions, resealed motors, have a welder and air compressor.....can i pull this off on an XT6? thanks, gary -
have you done timing belts before? it's only 5 more bolts to remove once the timing belts are off. tough question. i think they're easy. for someone who's only changed oil it would be a tricky task.
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Tranny/Rear Diff Binded? Locked up?
idosubaru replied to torxxx's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
couldn't shift? wouldn't go in gear or come out of gear? -
92' Loyale ticking. Will this fix it??
idosubaru replied to Slagathor1's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
soak 'em in ATF or cleaner as long as possible. try to compress them and see if you can get them to operate through their range of motion. when you compress them, oil will slowly seep out as the HLA compresses. clean them up real good and reintall. a seized HLA just won't compress at all and that will verify your problem - it is stuck and that can cause ticking. as far as determining if they all pump up properly i can't help you there, i've never had that problem so i'm not sure how to diagnose it. but if you clean all 4 i think a bad one should stick out. they should all end up the same when you're done cleaning/draining them of oil. -
92' Loyale ticking. Will this fix it??
idosubaru replied to Slagathor1's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
a new oil pump is unlikely to fix his problem in this instance. i'd at least troublshoot the HLA's as the motor is already apart and they are much cheaper than a new oil pump. -
92' Loyale ticking. Will this fix it??
idosubaru replied to Slagathor1's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
not so fast - a seized HLA won't be squishy and will cause your problems. i usually stick a straight edge across mine (i have a 6 cylinder so there are 6 per side), which ever one looks out of whack (isn't lined up with the rest in terms of height) is the one(s) that need replaced. only had to do this once and i found two that were seized and would not budge...even a C-Clamp would not compress them. i replaced them and all ticking went away. if the ticking is on one side (drivers side), this is most definitley not the oil pump that is why that did not fix the issue. i've posted this about 30 times, but random ticking across all cylinders points to oil pump issues while ticking associated with one cylinder (sometimes confirmed with off compression on those cylinders as well) points to the HLA's of that cylinder. replace you HLA's and you'll be golden. replace it with known good ones. you can try compressing/disassembling them if you want this thing back together quick. i've done it, time consuming but it is possible and if you can't get it apart due to being seized then trash the bad HLA. both of the bad ones i removed would not seperate at all. pulled the caps off and they would not disassemble after soaking in cleaners, ATF, heating in oven, pulling with assorted tools....all sorts of stuff. i trashed them. easiest solution is just get known good used ones or get them from Mitzpah Engineering (look them up on Yahoo), they sell them for like 5 bucks a piece - that's a much better deal than cleaning/disassembling yourself as it's time consuming. but it can be done if yo'ure wanting it back together. -
johnceggleston : start a new topic/thread or do a search. the questions you asked have been answered before. as far as the original post regarding the older models 2.2's and 2.5's, the more $ and reliability weigh on your mind, the more you should consider the 2.2. the less those factor in your decision the more you can lean towards the 2.5 if you need that larger motor. the 2.2 is a very durable motor and should offer you little trouble. auto/manual is your choice. manuals typically have less issues in general, less moving parts and gizmo's and all. if mileage is an issue then compare the mileage between the two. i'm not familiar with mileage of the manuals trans so i can't say. my auto OBS gets like 27 on all highway miles. the XT6 auto's do not get worse mileage than the manuals so the old axiom that auto's get worse milegae is not always true...usually it is, but not always. i'd plan on 25-27 mpg, that seems to be the average. i'm sure someone will pipe in with higher/lower but use those numbers in your decision making.
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4.11's, 4.44's, in a D/R 5spd. Any one?
idosubaru replied to soobme's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
the terminology "off topic"/"on topic" is subjective. you don't care about his particular situation but it was in reference to a supplier of the gears you speak of so it could be useful to others. consider it a free bump, you'll need it on a custom job like this, keep the thread up there awhile. -
decided to do my cousins timing belt on her 96,000 miles 2000 legacy. she said nothing has ever been done to the car, just normal cheap stuff. pulled the cover and the timing belt still has SUBARU on it and the part numbers and everything are readable on the belt. it is worn some, but doesn't look at all like i would expect a 96,000 mile timing belt. also - the cam sprocket on the drivers side had an orange paint dab on the outer rim, like someone had worked with lining up the belt before. can a 96,000 mile timing belt still have writing on it? anyone ever seen paint marks on the cam sprockets from the factory? i'm used to older soobs, maybe that's the problem. confused in maryland.....