idosubaru

i was wondering about gearing as well...but was going to wait on that one since i've never done internal trans work. i'd like to have the 3.7 gearing of the auto in the manual. the rear would be easy...but i'm guessing no easy way to do the front diff gearing? anyway to swap that from an auto into a manual? how nice it would be if the front diffs were perfectly swappable!

what's the difference bewteen SPFI and MPFI pistons? will i have to go to high grade gas on the SPFI pistons? why did they use lower compression pistons in the MPFI?

end of break-in comments. i can start a new thread when i get to that point. it's not really needed now. no go on the bike, won't suit my needs and i don't want one. snow, storage, passengers, long trips, rain (60 mile one way commute), DC traffic is hell, i've never driven one...

listen to above post. trans cooler is a must. these trans will survive much better with a cooler. check to see if the tires match....if they are way off then i'd plan on the trans not lasting long (if this is an AWD SVX...don't know if they made FWD, but i think they did). expensive trans and hard to find used because they are in high demand...well relatively high considering the small numbers available. cracked glass...windshields are expensive....$700 or so i believe. wheel bearings go out like nobodies business. i think improperly torqued lugnuts are a contributing factor to wheel bearing failure. i think you've read most of the highly problematic areas...after that they are great cars.

awesome pat. i'll already have the turbo cams. are they definitely different than the EA82 cams? i'll stick with the stock ECU for ease of use and troubleshooting. i'll use standard break-in procedures. what would be the best pistons to use for gas mileage? highest compression? would that be the standard EA82 pistons? i have some of those already so if there isn't much difference i'll likely use those. i can get lightweight forged pistons but i'm thinking that wouldn't transfer into much gas mileage savings. i'll have a complete head job done.

racing can be a bad comparison because they don't care if they have to rebuild. race teams will rebuild a motor every day or less often as funding allows. i have been using K&N filters for years. bought an XT6 with 75,000 miles and ran the same K&N in it until 196,000 miles. the car was lost due to fire but was in great shape...well that's debatable, i killed the cosmetics offroading but the engine was fine. so the filter, plugs (torquemaster), wires (magnecor) all had about 125,000 miles on them. plugs and wires were trashed due to fire (drivers side). filter was fine (passengers side), bought another XT6 and dropped it in for many more miles in that car....don't recall how many i got in the second XT6 on that K&N but easily 150,000 miles on one filter i'd say. i currently have a new one in my 220,000 mile XT6 that's been in there for years....probably 100,000 miles, but i don't recall exactly when i installed it.

are there any particulars to rebuilding a motor for best gas mileage (highway mileage)? boring over and head/work will increase power but decrease gas mileage i guess? i'm getting an XT (actually an XT Turbo, but i'm installing an EA82 motor in it) saturday that will become my highway vehicle and i'm gearing it for gas mileage. on a side note - does CCR rebuild long blocks only or short blocks as well? what does an EA82 rebuild cost? i sent them an email but go no reply.

i've rebuilt a few XT6 calipers. the rust you see is likely just surface rust and will also occur on newly installed calipers in no time. you can pick up rebuild kits for under 10 dollars....i think i found a set for 5.65, or right around there for an XT6. and that's for both sides. so two rebuilt calipers for a couples dollars and some grease. it is very simple. piston comes out, install new seal and boot and you're done. helps having good tools, but otherwise it is a straight forward job.

port and polish the heads and have them bench tested and flowed. have a head specialist (machine shop) look at the valve train for possibilities on valve improvements. have the fuel injectors professionally cleaned (RC Engineering) and a valve job done. no point in all this work without stuff performing up to their potential.

CEL is liking causing your issues. read the code it's giving you. it could be any number of codes. i can almost promise it's not fuel related as you suspect but aside from that it's all guesswork until you read the code. trans work should not make the light come on. i would guess the coolant temperature sensor first. usually the contacts are dirty...sitting awhile can make them worse. pull the plug and inspect the contacts on the harness clip and the sensor itself. clean it all up. a new sensor will only delay the problem for a couple months if the connector is still corroded. i hacked the connector off and soldered it directly to the sensor as a permanent solution. read the code(s) and post back.

that price is for the pair.

i've owned like a dozen and have 6 or so right now...so the answer to your question is "yes".

that's one bad A set up scott. nice job!

synthetic oil should be fine so long as it's the proper weight. might not be a bad idea to change it out. but i hate to tell you to drain such expensive fluid. often people change tranny fluids if the trans is making noise so i'd guess the trans started making this noise and the owner either knew it himself or talked to someone who told him to change the fluid to see if that would help. i would guess that the noise was there before the fluid is more likely than the fluid causing the noise. unless of course the wrong weight was used.

depends on the store too. go to NAPA and ask for an XT6 distributor cap. it'll have 4 plug wires on it. ha ha. that was like 5 years ago, maybe they have it right by now. taking in the old part is the preferred method in my oppinion as well. i also like to watch them go through the screen selection process. sometimes it's easy to read the wrong line or number or click wrong.

have you considered an EA82T? with minor intercooler upgrades you're looking at the same or more output than the ER27 and it's smaller, easier to work with and would fit better. on your ER27 swap definitely use an ER27 wiring harness, splicing into another harness would be horrific, if possible. if you want power steering you'll need a power steering pump as the ER27 wasn't a belt driven pump.

the older soob trans are pretty darn tough and i'd expect the transmission to outlive the rust and motor if maintained properly and driven lightly (offroad, towing and such are good causes for early failure). that it sounds louder in first may not mean much. at higher gears there is more road, wind and other noises to muffle the sound.

does it have a hotwire MAF? check the wires of the MAF that reside in the air flow. they are very very very thin and difficult to see, can really only see them if you remove the sensor. if one of the hair thin wires breaks then you'll have problems just like you're mentioning. or swap in a known good unit. battery/charging nice and tight? funny bantering back and forth on two different sites huh matt? if i weren't at work i'd just call!

start just recently - maybe bad gas or water in the gas?

i've never had ticking issues when i install HLA's so i don't think it's related to the position in the bore. unless every time i've installed them it's been right. every ticking issue i've had has been related to the HLA or the oil pump or maybe something that got worked out when i ran ATF or MMO through the engine. no ticking on mine when i get done. are you discussing this because you have a persistent ticking problem that won't go away?

i'd start with a pressure washer if i had one. using cleaners takes forever, that's how i did two of mine.

awesome, thanks pat. this vehicle has the spyder intake, does that means it's MPFI? or could it still be SPFI?

accoring to kevin the NA and Turbo injectors are different. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35326&highlight=truth+about+turbo how would the ECU handle the larger injectors if used on an NA car? maybe i'll need NA injectors?

so i can use the turbo heads on an NA block. but i'll need to plug the extra fittings? what about the injectors, don't they differ between NA and turbo or will the turbo injectors work fine? plans now: rebuild the turbo motor with NA pistons. need NA pistons, exhaust and intake. i can make the exhaust and intake and i already have pistons. thanks!

looking at picking up an 87.5 XT Turbo. i'd like to put an NA EA82 in it's place. that's right, the opposite of what most people want to do. manual trans fulltime 4WD. *** EDIT *** looks like the ECU and wiring harness will work, no swap needed on that. can i reuse anything when i rebuild it? can i keep the turbo block, heads, intake manifold, injectors?