idosubaru

tightening or reinstalling probably won't work. you need to replace the pulley or the crank is toast. i think it highly unlikely the crank is toast. but a bad pulley can ruin your crank, so best to fix this immediately. not sure why it's wobbling, be nice to know. it's likely not a big deal now, but if you let it go too long it could definitely seriously damage your crank and that's a pain in the rump roast to deal with if you don't know what you're doing. (it can be done but you better have good machinists around). if it's a harmonic damper type crank pulley then a new pulley will likely be in order. personally i'd get an aluminum solid piece crank pulley and replace the stock one if it's a harmonic balancer type (which i think it is, i know the 2.2's are). all subaru crank pulley's i've seen are harmonic balancers but i've never seen a 2.5 liter motor. have the pulley checked and start sourcing another one.

pro's definitely. i picked up a soob with a bad tint job, all bubbly. no good. and while the tint may absorb some or all the UV...autoglass does the same thing so that's not really any added value. that's why you don't get sunburn while sitting in your car driving 1,000 miles on a road trip. (unless your windows are down.

sounds like a master cylinder. if the master cyilnder went bad while installing new brakes, then it wasn't done correctly most likely. the cap was probably left on the master cylidner while at least one piston was pushed in, that will ruin the master cylinder seals. if that were the case then the mechanic, not the car is to blame for that failure. now..on to your problem.... based on the pedal going to the floor i would suspect or at least want to start looking at something between the brake pedal and master cylinder. check to make sure that when you push the pedal the master cylinder is indeed doing something. will the fluid bleed out okay? in other words it is actually under pressure when the pedal is pushed? that will verify the pedal linkage and booster are doing their thing. was the new master cylinder properly installed and bled before anything else? there are directions tpyically with the new part on how to prime the master cylinder and get all the air out of it. if that was replaced then i'd possibly suspect the brake calipers. the calipers have an oring around the piston that can leak and then once past the oring the fluid could be partially or completely contained by the rubber dust shield around the piston as well. that is where i would suspect a minor leak that isn't detectable. caliper rebuild kits are inexpensive...a few dollars typically. was it bled correctly, i'm guessing so, sounds like you're tried alot. make sure all the pads were installed! forgetting one, the caliper piston could get pushed out of it's cylinder. another test would be to attach some clear hose to each bleeder screw at each caliper (one at a time). make a loop in it so no air can get back into the caliper. the fish air-line hose at wal-mart works okay, i have some that i use for bleeding. this will allow you to bleed without getting air in the lines AND you'll be able to see your fluid. if one particular line is indeed causing the problems then you should see large amounts of airbubbles in whatever lines is causing the problems....right, left, rear, front caliper line. this will narrow down where your bubbles are coming from if that's the case.

if it was a suspected oil loss problem i would check the oil pump itself for irregular wear. the oil pump will *see* lack of oil problems first since it's doing the pumping. the rotor and shaft should tell you if oil supply was low enough to cause damage. this may not be your problem now but since we're talking about it, that's what i would look at first if replacing a blown out seal.

guy over at http://www.xt6.net didn't seat his torque converter properly on his 4EAT when installing it and toasted his trans oil pump shaft i think. whatever he did he fixed it and i believe posted some information about fixing it over there.

X35 is parting out his XT Turbo with all his working MS set up on it. his parts and existing code may help???

seen some gas mileage posts in the past. here's what just happened to me. i was getting low gas mileage on my 2.2 liter impreza OBS....about 23/24 all highway miles. i did a tune up, new timing belts, rebuilt oil pump, cam seals, crank seals, spark plugs, wires, , fuel filter, PCV valve, etc. gas mileage went up maybe 1 mpg to 24/25. this was about 2 weeks ago. then i replaced the brake pads just a couple days ago for a trip this past weekend and got excellent gas mileage. getting close to 30 mpg on one trip. i'd say averaged a solid 28 with the a/c on at least half the time. either it took a couple trips for the tune up to *kick in* and improve gas mileage (i doubt it) or the brakes were causing a loss. brakes have always worked great with no problems at all.

seen some gas mileage posts in the past. here's what just happened to me. i was getting low gas mileage on my 2.2 liter impreza OBS....about 23/24 all highway miles. i did a tune up, new timing belts, rebuilt oil pump, cam seals, crank seals, spark plugs, wires, , fuel filter, PCV valve, etc. gas mileage went up maybe 1 mpg to 24/25. this was about 2 weeks ago. then i replaced the brake pads just a couple days ago for a trip this past weekend and got excellent gas mileage. getting close to 30 mpg on one trip. i'd say averaged a solid 28 with the a/c on at least half the time. either it took a couple trips for the tune up to *kick in* and improve gas mileage (i doubt it) or the brakes were causing a loss. brakes have always worked great with no problems at all.

i'd check into that bolt you jb welded on there. what is that bolt for? don't want to mess with the trans.

39 is a good price, but you still have to add shipping, installation, balancing, tire disposal fee (in some states) etc. if you suspect one being bad, i'd place that one on the back and be on your way. blow outs on the rear are much better than blow outs on the front. i don't recommend either, but that's the way to go if $ is tight. and don't forget your spare tire. full size spares are AWESOME. my guess is we will see you 700 miles later with no problems. i agree, best to replace them but dry rot is not that uncommon. you can also call around for used tires as well. not the best option, but an option for landing a 15/20 dollar tire.

haven't heard of anyone doing it on the XT6 yet scott. i don't think anyone has done it. if they have they haven't posted about it on the board that i'm aware of. i definitley wouldnt forget that because i would have talked to them about it by now.

water pump new in both XT6's. brand new pump, seals, tstat, etc... swapped in a third radiator and it appears the temps are back to normal. so it must have been two bad radiators, but that second radiator was good when it was in the last XT6 it inhabited. someone on xt6.net guessed bad radiators, so i guess he gets the 50 cents as well as one or two persons here. fantastic work guys, thanks for the effort.

are the ER27 and EA82 TPS sensors the same? theTPS in the ER27 motor (based on the EA82) will not come close to testing to the specs in the FSM - it's garbage. have to set it by ear. if the EA82 TPS is the same you could have the same problem. i've posted a couple times and have yet to see anyone mention if the TPS is the same on these two motors.

the EA82 lifters will work in your XT6 derrick. the cap will likely look slightly different, but it will work. the EA82 and ER27 have the same basic setup, just twice as much hardware in the valve train. to the original poster, by *rebuild the oil pump* what does that mean? did you replace the seal AND the oring/block gasket? everything should be replaced, if you skipped any then it will need to be done again. the oil pump gasket (between engine and oil pump) tends to want to get sucked into one of the two ports. there is a crazy rump roast way to fix this, but i haven't done it yet. basically you can insert a metal tube in the oil pump ports that will prevent the oring from getting sucked into the port. i haven't needed to do it, but know someone who has and it was an interesting solution. and a new pump is fine as well. they can fail so if you can buy new then do it. once i get my daily driver i'm throwing a new oil pump at it (has 220,000 miles on it, rebuilt once around 150,000).

drove 60 miles today and the crank pulley mark never moved, so the crank pulley is fine, but nice call though. it did this with all antifreeze, all water and mixed. makes no difference. thermostat - don't know i think it was a stock 195 but i took it out and it still does the exact same thing!??!! today i figured i'd test the original radiator that i removed when i suspected it was causing the problems. took that original radiator that was suspect and put it in one of my other XT6's (that motor has brand new everything, gaskets, seals, water pump, thermostat, blah blah blah)....and what happened? same thing...it was running a bit hot. no crap? so maybe it's that i had two bad radiators??? which is strange since i've never had a bad radiator except one that leaked...never had one before that couldn't cool enough. and i don't ever recall that radiator running hot in the car it used to be in, but that was over 2 years ago so who knows. i'm thinking it's the radiator so i'll try a third (KNOWN GOOD) one and see what happens. thanks for the help and the courageous effort for my 50 cents. you all deserve it, it's been fun!

no leakage. no coolant loss. no wetness out of exhaust at start up or otherwise. no antifreeze out of the exhaust. typical head gasket leaks i have seen in the past will actually run fine and won't run hot until it looses some coolant. haven't done a compression test yet.

are the bearings replaceable? the pulleys on two of my spares spin really tight.

don't know about clogging - need to figure out a way to check that, got some ideas. ignition timing, car runs great and i've never messed with it. i'll check timing tomorrow and see if the bolts are all tight. TURBONE - i marked the crank pulley tonight and cranked it up and nothing moved but i didn't drive it anywhere either, just idled it and revved it a bit. i'll check it tomorrow after i start my ride home. if it's only slipping a little, it might only slip once it heats up or is under load, high speed or something. if it slipped alot it would probably be more noticeable and actually overheat.

you deserve 50 cents, but NOT BECAUSE YOU'RE RIGHT!! well, not yet anyway. wait, i got the car with me at work tonight maybe i'll go check if i have a flashlight. the only reason i don't suspect that is that i'm not having any charging problems either. is it possible for cooling to suffer but charging okay? i recall the pulley spinning at what seemed to be reasonable speed at idle. i'll have another look though, i was'nt really thinking about the crank pulley issue, just noticed the water pump spinning when i looked for leaks. didn't think of this one, nice call Turbone!!! i owe you a pepsi. the wife and i do want to go out west! NOW WHO WANTS THIS FIFTY CENTS!!!! i've always taken cooling issues with a grain of salt because they are typically so simple - water pump radiator, caps, fans, tstat and not much else to it. now i'm stumped.

manual trans do not always get better mileage for the same vehicle. usually, yes. always, no. depends on gearing. if the auto is geared higher it can get the same or better mileage than a manual for the same car. those do seem like low mileages.

if you're driving with your differential locked you should not be driving AT ALL. bad news for your center diff in your trans (lots of $$). or drive it off road, then you're fine. got some pastures to drive through to get around? be sure all your tires match. mismatching tires can cause problems like this, though typically it comes and goes/locks and unlocks in my experience.

that is hysterical, thanks for the laugh i'm at work tonight! way to chime in kevin!!

no bubbles in the overflow tank. doubtful it's air in the system as i've never had problems like this before and i've worked on about a zillion XT6's. okay, maybe 10. who wants my 50 cents? and kevin, what IS that picture anyway? random?

wasting your time. do a search, others have asked, soon i won't reply to these questions anymore. i've tried one over a decade ago in a subaru and posted my results.

i was wondering that, but i'm almost positive it's overheating. it gradually climbs up and goes down when i start the car or turn the heat on and goes up further on hot days than cool days...seems linear and all. and it also seems to have gotten worse, so it sounds like a cooling issue of some sort. the gauge is very consistent and giving expected results giving driving conditions, etc. so i don't think it's the gauge. any easy way to check? which sender gives the temperature to the gauge? i'll swap temp senders. i see one in the radiator and one in the motor (under the intake manifold). i figure one turns the fans on and one is for the gauge?? doubtful you scored 50 cents, but i hope you did! thanks!