idosubaru

I would jump in that car as fast as you can. While the demand is really low in Maryland and the east coast for cars that old - one that good of condition and cheap won’t last long usually. If it wasn’t summer it would probably sell quicker. That’s such a good deal I’d be inclined to offer more for it than they’re asking (if condition and all line up), to help mitigate the distance and arranging to meet up. I do stuff like that all the time and it’s a big help, people know you’re serious and appreciate the minor gratuity...it often helps.

XT6 has similar weight and hp (145 hp) as an EJ22 swapped EA vehicle. I run 10% larger tires so speedo says 70 when it’s doing 77. They aren’t heavy off-road tires, use 16” aluminum wheels and can end up with better gas mileage as well. Not much difference in my local mountainous commute but I can get 28 mpg in the automatic XT6 when doing a frequent long trip at 65 mph on flat and very rural roads.

For clarity. US EJ22 existed until 2001. 99-2001 is not the desirable one 1990-1998 EJ22s are all the same with minor differences and all are interchangeable. 97+ is inference, install new Subaru timing kit and it’s almost inconsequential

You don’t get luckier than this - go buy this one: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/169484-1990-subaru-legacy-wagon-ocean-city-maryland/

If you can’t unstick or get it working, its insanely easy to replace the entire sunroof assembly. Used $75 and swap it.

AISIN or Subaru parts are preferred. Gates and other suppliers have modified to a moving target of parts sourcing and quality.

Nice work on the needle bearings. The timing pulley bearings are just like the needle bearings except worse. They’re sealed bearings so once they dry out theres nothing, not even old grease. The lower cogged idler is by far the most likely to fail but it’s generally good idea to replace them all while you’re in there.

Yes you can put Outback or Forester strut assemblies in the legacy. They bolt right up. Good to have new CV boots for that as they'll stretch and be more prone to break due to the harsher angle of the axles. Particularly without any subframe spacers which the outbacks have and legacy's don't. But you don't have to install those, lots of people don't. I've never had those needle bearings come out. Did you make them come out on purpose to clean them or did they fall out? In the US market that's an interference engine so get a new Subaru or AISIN timing kit installed as soon as you can. 1997 can have the older and newer style tensioner but all of the 97's I've seen have the newer one piece tensioner like this: https://www.amazon.com/97-98-Subaru-EJ22E-Timing-AISIN/dp/B00Y12ZFVC (oddly that kit shows two more seals than you'll need - which is how many the 2.5 liter engine would need). The 1990-1997 two piece timing pulley and kit looks like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-2-2L-4cyl-CA-Aisin-OEM-Timing-Belt-Water-Pump-Kit-NEW-/360702346753 The water pump, belt, and pulleys are all the same, it's only the tensioner that's different.

Thanks. +1, i've heard stories as well and am still hesitant, only done a couple.

Don't look for entire assemblies - they work better for other manufacturers but are generally low grade options for Subaru's. Get KYB struts, they're preferred replacements for Subaru's and inexpensive. I think they're like $20 for a brat! Pocket change for the best available option!

Original Subaru OEM dealer keys are half what your first posts says you were quoted, on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/p/Subaru-57497FJ021-Genuine-OEM-Key/1230295995

These aren't listed as compatible with your 2015 but for illustration purposes I've bought a few of these and they all worked: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PKJLTKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’m the same and very pragmatic and practical. I prefer 80s Subaru’s which I should change since they’re less practical due to space with kids That said the 91-94 legacy’s are the cream of the crop for simple, reliable, predictable in every way. They’re excellent high mileage inexpensively maintained reliable mechanical beasts.

Thanks. all 2005+ are that way? I usually spend a few minutes looking and try to find some on amazon I think that have dedicated reviews. that might improve odds a bit over buying whatever is cheap? That happened to a friend in the military who had their US market Subaru overseas and lost both keys. The dealers in that country couldn’t program or reset or do anything with a US market vehicle. It was a big mess for the family. I forget how they resolved that.

Aftermarket strut tops can be of atrocious quality. Folks have posted pictures in forums. The cushions can bulge in scary fashion and fail. I’ve seen new ones completely fail and disintegrate in less than 100 miles. Aftermarket Struts can be equally poor. I’ve got a 2003 that had new struts installed at a local shop that are almost intolerable to drive - and I’m generally immune to performance. These float and responds worse than I realized “new” struts could. You can replace the one bad side with a new KYB strut - theyre not expensive. Used OEM top mounts or springs or entire OEM used strut assemblies are a better option than aftermarket new IMO. 05-09 struts are weak and lazy with age, more so than others. I’d Get Baja turbo or 00-04 struts and springs for it, even used ones over new aftermarket or 05-09 stuff.

Can you look for what you want mechanically without putting yourself into a sentimental corner about your old car? Do like Imdew said and lift one if you want some extra clearance. 2” is easy bolt on anyone can do, the 4 parts are made by various people and vendors and not expensive or you can often install struts/springs from other Subaru’s for s lift. Air suspension is highly problematic with age. None of them are ever maintained at all, bags leak, there’s 2 dozen orings that can leak, solenoids that can leak, the pumps have multiple failure modes, and the tank sensors get corroded. They’re great in great condition but getting that on 30 year old used suspension is a shot in the dark. Sure, look for one, but being married to them won’t be easy.

I assume you’ve already checked for obvious play, loss ness and front control arm bushings? The rear bushings on the front are weak.

Front CV axles (it’s the inner joint) routinely vibrate under load/acceleration/uphill. Bearings routinely make noise and those 2005s have no shortage of failed wheel bearings. They usually make noise first then vibrate as they progressively get worse and get really bad. They can be hard to diagnose with no consistent symptoms that always confirm. False negatives are common. I’ve seen some not have any obvious play until the entire assembly is off and axle is out of it. Use a stethoscope. Check temps after driving and compare drivers and passengers side. Rear diff failure is rare and usually a misdiagnosis, that’s a hard one to lean towards without compelling Subaru specific experience.

I’ve done it. $12 eBay keys or whatever they are. My dealer charges the same rate to program however many keys (and remotes if applicable) you got at the same time. I think they need all the keys you want programmed at the same time. So if you buy a new key make sure you hand them that new one and all your existing working keys as well Anyway - I usually get an extra, or two extras, since the keys are so cheap and the dealer programs how ever many you hand them for the same price. I’d recommend at least once extra and maybe two if situations/circumstances suggest losing is likely again

Good job. You’re done, yes! I’ve been foiled by bleeding too.

Don’t add the stop leak stuff. It will not work. The symptoms don’t sound good but also you’re admittedly new and we only have what we can read to work with. There’s a slim chance that you have something else going on and it’s not headgaskets. It seems ominous but It should be diagnosed for sure first. Oil loss could just be burning it internally. 1. The brown could be internal scaling/rust and a quarter century of debris in the radiator and cooling system. Overflow tanks alone can be filthy. The overheating could just be air still in the system. It never overheated and then overheats one time after you drained the coolant - the first step in that scenario is to make positively sure you got all the air out and there’s no leaks. The radiator cap - test it or install a new Subaru one. Thermostat - test or replace with a Subaru one. You can boil it in a pot of water and see if it opens. Radiator could be clogged. If the brown is debris then radiator may be internally clogged. see if it can flow the garden hose turned all the way up from inlet to outlet. 2. If it’s AT the trans fluid can also be pushed into the coolant via a failed radiator. It does sound like headgaskets could be the issue but make sure these simple things are ruled out first. It being able to see it, it’s hard to say what’s happening with just text.

Im seeing tires on the car off the car inflated not inflated punctured and tread depth and circumference. A bit convoluted to keep track of. Depending what combo you got going on just put the larger tires on the front and put a little more air in the rears if you want a little extra margin. The fronts then wear down to match the rear. I’ve done it countless times on Subaru over the decades.

nice! wow.

That's benign for almost any driver. That engine gets worse very, very slowly over a long period of time and those external oil leaks are no indication of future issues. They show signs of wetness like you have now......and in 5 year or 10,000 miles the bottom of the heads might get wet and in 50,000 miles maybe it'll start dripping 3 times per week...I'm just making up numbers, but that's how they progress in general. You've got all the time in the world to just take a peak every time you change the oil and see how it's doing. Replace both serpentine pulley bearings - they're $10 for good bearings, take 30-60 minutes to replace both of them, and they fail all the time, by a looong shot the most problematic failure and stranding event on H6 engines.

What if pulley "failure" is not the issue but bearing grease is? For sure the EA82 seems less robust and i'm all for early replacement. Seems they weren't failing under warranty so my opinion is it's also causative with maybe some recourse options. Pulley failure may not be the only concern, I've never seen an EA82 or XT6 with what were obviously replaced pulleys - they all appear to have original pulleys and lack grease which work and spin just fine but definitely are nothing close to new, tightly greased pulleys. If they generate more heat that may quicken the degradation of belts (particularly aftermarket or old belts?). That's speculative, i've never hit them with a temp gun. I almost always installed complete kits - new belts, pulleys, tensioners at the same time and regrease XT6 pulleys and have never seen failures. the people replacing multiple belts back to back - i don't see them installing new bearings each time. one recent guy was complaining about 3 broken belts back to back and eventually says he installs used ones laying around the garage...typical for us cheap old gen subaru owners, but maybe there's more than just "bad belt design" going on....which seems the likely starting point if they weren't doing this 25 years ago under warranty. Not without custom work. The drivers side is completely different set up and would require custom fitment. Passengers side is very similar but not substantially different nor the most problematic one.