idosubaru

It won't work on a 1994 and earlier EA/ER Subarus, so we can't answer without knowing what Subarus we're talking about. It won't read anything but engine codes in other Subaru's - so we can't talk of it's functionality without knowing if you want more than just engine code reading? In general, OBD2 is a standardized protocol so it should work fine. It's kind of like asking if a mouse will work with your computer - in most general senses - yes.

there's a bracket holding the lever on the front passengers side of the transmission which switches the transmission between locked and not-locked. you can look at the position of that switch to determine if the controls (button, wiring, fuse, diaphragm, vacuum, etc) are working properly. if that's moving back and forth and your transmission still isn't locked then that's another issue. it's hard to guess what's going on - it sounds like it's simply stuck in the unlocked position mechanically but the light shouldn't be on if that's the case.

what would you do if someone left your trunk open? probably close it. what would you do if someone left your door open? probably close it. what would you do if someone turned your radio off? probably turn it back on. Remove it.

Post this over at subaruxt?

Slid plates are cool but kinda annoying for limited functionality... but I get it too. Id get just the lift. I'd go with SJR as well Ive bought his stuff before. The SJR stuff is reusable, granted not an issue for most people but there's no wear issues like springs and you can easily remove, resell, reuse them in the future. I've had the same lift on multiple Subarus before.

Well superb. If it's a Subaru joint they probably know what they're doing. With a resurface, quality head gaskets, new timing components (check for tensioner and pulleys), and warranty (does it transfer?), that's a desirable vehicle.

You need to determine if it's actually locked or not first. Without any other information every failure is a possibility. "The light is on" is nearly meaningless by itself. Switch sticking, wiring issue, prior work, diaphragm stuck, vacuum hose issue, cable issue, bracket holding the cable issue, center diff issues, or it just needs driven a bit with matching tires/diff ratios/air pressure in a straight line to disengage.

That's amazing they're gone. Who would want those? Bump.

Sure thing - i'd love to see you come out of this with as little drama as possible after all that. Well done having a level head after all that. You might consider finding a better shop - $3k should have landed you in a long term reliable vehicle. Mistakes happen, but again you might want to review. Maybe even ask here about that repair and if maybe the right steps were taken. If the engine has new timing gear and is truly "rebuilt" by a reputable company - then that is absolutely a selling point. You'll chase away a percentage of people, but there's also people that will pay premium for the new headgaskets. There's plenty of people looking for that exact vehicle - 10 year old Subaru with new headgaskets. *** Can you tell us who did the rebuild? Were the heads resurfaced and which brand head gaskets were used? Those could all be huge sellnig points. That's like a $7,000 vehicle...I wouldn't take a dime less than $5k and it should sell really quick, I would list it closer to $6k, like $5,800 myself...depending on other conditions I'm unaware of i guess....windshield and buttons are a mark against it of course. But in some sense they're minor and known. Most 10+ year old car buyers looking at private owner vehicles want practical, reliable, not show room perfect though that helps greatly as well. List it and sell it immediately, it's raining gold - taxes, snow, and denver.

his doesn't have spark plug tubes or seals, the original engine does, but the swapped EJ22 does not.

Wow, that's a terrible experience. I'd repair the rotors and sell it right now as-is. The rotors should not cost $600. Find a place that will *just turn the front rotors*. I can guarantee that will fix the issues. Done it zillions of times, classic Subaru. I'd drop them off at a local place that turns rotors and have it fixed for $40. If you're paying labor - then add another 1 hour....or 2 if they're really expensive/big charging shop. So $300 tops. Ideally you replace the pad clips (cheap on rockauto) and grease the slide pins with Sil-Glyde (or other high quality grease) and throw the pin bushings away (in case prior shops used regular brake grease - it swells the pads. Those things are pennies and take no time - so shouldn't cost much, but if you're just dumping it, then honestly it's not probably worth it because most shops aren't even that thorough. contact this guy: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/9-out-west/286490-tdck-s-redneck-denver-repair-facility.html

International offerings (when an engine was offered in which models/years) will differ but here's everything you need to know: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153118-ej22-or-ej18-swap-into-ej25d-dohc-vehicle/

Your mechanic sounds like a very thorough and competent place with great prices. That's great. I've always wondered this, not being well informed on machinist stuff - I've poured fluids into heads and sometimes the valves will seep. Why do they do that and what symptoms will it show if it gets "bad enough"? and what is "bad enough" ? Or is this pretty normal for higher mileage/aged heads? I've only done it to a few and use it to lap my valves clean and tight.

makin me feel so old!

ive never seen or heard someone mention it before which is odd as i've seen it so often I would guess that's the main cause of most lug thread issues....maybe i've got special air tools or am really bad at mechanical work. i've only used a torque wrench maybe twice on subaru lug nuts and have certainly over tigthened them, but have never sheared one (not counting rusty heaps, parts cars) off. i'm not sure, but i suspect many sheared lug nuts blamed on "over torquing" are actually from removal, not installation. it's pretty easy to tell - start verifying your lugs are perfectly smooth and can hand-tighten (chase them with taps/dies if need be). then zip them off and voila! when you go to install them, they do install fine, but they're "tighter" or not as smooth going back on. then it's just a matter of time, a little corrosion, or one getting hit bad enough that it is problematic.

we have the 1988 XT (EA82) FSM's hosted digitally for free on subaruxt.com if you just need engine, transmission, suspension, driveline, brakes, etc.

Yeah they're easy to replace. If they're covering the repair why does it matter what it costs? There's nothing to be concerned about. They would have noticed any problematic lugs on install. If you think they wouldn't then you need a new tire shop. If they threaded back on fine they aren't going to break. And if they did, each wheel will incur zero issues with 3 or more of the 5 lugs in place. It's absolutely zero risk. We can complain about it all day long but it's common. I find that air tools spin the lug off so fast that they damage the threads on removal. It's as if the last thread, just before its off, slams against the stud as it rails off at high rpm. If you don't pull the gun off instantaneously there's more chance of contact. They're often tighter going back on due to this or don't unless you chase them with a die. Seen it a ton of times and it's hard to avoid. Unless you're very careful or use hand tools. I would not go to the dealer. Possible additional headaches for what is a very common and easy repair. Cost - $75-$150

Thanks for noting that.

Done. The head side cracks are normal The exhaust side is not. And you've got all the symptoms to prove it.

Nope - completely different. Front diff is in the front of the trans and drives the front wheels. Center differential is in the back of the trans and drives the rear driveshaft (which sends power to the rear diff and rear wheels). Absolutely. Actually those two situations are on opposite sides of the repair spectrum. The impreza has torque bind - that's benign and very easy to work around and won't ever strand you or cause issues and you can drive it in FWD indefinitely for the life of the vehicle without issues. Front differentials get worse over time and absolutely will fail catastrophically every single time...it's just a matter of when. Front diffs can go BANG, CLANK, and spew guts through the case.

That's how it is with the car running, but is that from fluid pressure (supplied by the trans pump/engine running) or are they always locked. If the clutches aren't engaged then that's probably the main concern.

Does fluid pressure release the clutches or engage them? The Duty C solenoid "locks" the 4WD when it's not powered/non-operational. So I'm wondering if its nominally locked but the solenoid and fluid pressure releases the 4WD.

It could be related, it would be an outlier. Varying symptoms are common, oil choice making a significant difference is not. Unlikely related to the oil. Could switch back under identical circumstances, to confirm. the oil *change* would be more likely the culprit than the oil *type*. Two totally different things but most people are terrible at living or operating under the reality (even if they know it's true) that correlation does not mean causation. They are quick to assume. Intermittent leaks are common. I've seen used engines use oil the first oil change or two and then subside. Maybe the previous oil was an undesirable weight, overfilled, or ancient or contaminated, maybe the leak(s) will return in the future and were previously intermediate. Maybe the leak was present for years but intermittent and rarely noticed. Maybe the car is driven significantly different than before or time of year dependent (typical for college students for instance). Maybe the diff vent tube was clogged and was dislodged during work. Assumptions, history, change in usage, environment, vehicle condition...are all highly variable and subject to ambiguity. There's a lot of possibilities. "Suspicion often creates what it suspects". In general there's a false sense of oil choice importance giving infinite anecdotal commentary and opinions. which makes it easy to see whatever possibility you want to see.

maybe it's like appliances - they're more disposable now. are consumers partly to blame? i mean i guess it doesn't matter - the end product is still the end product. although I haven't seen signficant and compelling differences, for the few issues i still see plenty of high mileages newer subaru's doing their thing. even if a vehicle is in excellent shape they get traded with low miles, moved on - there is still strong consumer support for the market that they participate in. modern consumers are less informed, more demanding (i mean sadly I've seen and heard the way some of my friends talk about buying cars), and they want more novelty, gadgets, comfort, warranty, luxuries...and their grasp on anything beyond oil changes is limited...this is at least a very strong sector of the market that carries significant weight for a business to flourish.

"why is it cheap?" is often telling and goes a long way.