idosubaru

yes, a joke. good tune up/running condition: O2 sensor if it's original, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter ditch the clutch fan if it has one yes removing power steering/a/c could help a little bit city driving and mountainous driving will kill MPG. eastern TN mountains verses flat western TN could give very different results.

if they were working fine before there's no reason to suspect they'll be problematic in the future with proper oil changes. so no point to rebuild. OP didn't mention any issues so I'm assumign they're normal operating good HLA's. i've rebuilt them before too and they are easy but the plastic-ish cap things tend to crack - they're very brittle proably due to age/miles. And since Mizpah sells them rebuilt so cheap - like $8 or something, it's not even worth my time anyway to rebuild one or two bad ones. But i get that some folks would rather just in house all that and save the couple bucks/time.

it's really simple - just unbolt each end - but the lower ends are a pain to get to. snake a crescent wrench down there and you've only got a few degrees of motion. doable, not major surgercy, but not fun and requires some resilience.

i use both of the following as well - just depends on the job. anaerobic is nice as it won't glob up internally.

what year/engine? 1. read the OBD codes - it can have a pending code without triggering a CEL 2. does the CEL actually work? 3. check timing belt for looseness, tensioner mechanism and alignment (though i doubt you'd have great performance at high RPM if that was the problem) 4. check for vacuum leak - spray starting fluid around engine bay - if there's a leak the engine will rev 4. knock sensor sounds likely but usually gives a check engine light and EJ18's that come in some impreza's don't have a knock sensor

The Subaru pads are actually excellent quality if you just want to get them. I've run gobs of different pads and have never noticed even a slight difference in performance on any of the 40 or so Subaru's I've owned or the others I've worked on. Even the cheapest pads at Rockauto work fine - they just only last a year or less. I lean towards a few selections and better brands/grades but it doesn't matter. That's why everyone has a different answer - because it doesn't matter. What do they say - tires stop the car, not brakes? Any pad is going to lock up your wheels/activate ABS in which case there's no difference unless you're towing, racing, rockcrawling which generate massive heat - which it sounds like you're not. The better question is how to make sure you get a good brake job, particularly in the northeast. clean/regrease slides use SilGlyde or equivalent throw away the caliper pin bushings

1. The slide pins are sticking. Clean/regrease them or replace/throw away the slide pin bushing if it's causing it to stick. on legacy/outbacks I throw the slide pin bushings away - they routinely swell and seize/stick in the slide pin bores and are unnecessary. 2. probably need new brake pads

exactly - just install them and run the car they'll make disturbingly loud clatter for a few minutes then quiet down. i've never gotten them to pump up well either off the vehicle.

use RTV, no gasket. those cork aftermarket gaskets suck and haven't been used for over a decade now by Subaru. make sure the pan itself isn't too deformed - not flat or concave bolt holes from people trying to overtigthen the pan. there's an internal screen "filter" - but it's hardly worth replacing except I guess if it comes with a new oring and you replace that while you're at it. but the filter itself isn't even really a filter - they're just screens and don't clog. if that's clogged or dirty you'll probably need a new transmission soon.

They routinely pass compression tests. That's not even a test I've ever bothered to do on EJ25's, generally inconclusive. You haven't mentioned any overheating symptoms - they usually overheat. make sure it's diagnosed properly. Do an EJ22 swap. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153118-ej22-or-ej18-swap-into-ej25d-dohc-vehicle/ Or yeah, i'd run an EJ20 if you can get an NA one that's plug and play. EJ20 is 120hp Ej22 is 135hp EJ25 is like 165hp

I wouldn't go JB weld on an oil pan myself. It is strong but not resilient to all the heat cycling, vibrating, impact from road debris over time. i've had JB weld fail when used on engine blocks before, i no longer consider it a reliable high mileage option for critical items. I'd avoid the epoxy route on an oil pan myself but maybe there's a higher grade marine or option...i don't know anything about this but maybe something along these lines would be better: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L220ZFU?tag=viglink21921-20

heat shields. common, particularly in rust prone areas, happens all the time. the dealer might be a bad place to have that repaired - it could be extravagant in cost for something many people repair for $2 and 8 minutes. a mechanical/movement related noise under load is almost always a CV axle (recent new axle installed would be suspect) or front differential. check the differential fluid level and quality and look for metal shavings. but i doubt you'll need to get past heatshields.

does the pan look otherwise damaged - like this was caused by damage or is it a perfectly drilled/placed hole like it was intended for something?

take some kind of cleaner with you to get all the oil out of the hole/inside for clean working/prepping if needed. is the hole smaller than the drain plug such that you could slide a nut into the drain plug hole to accept a bolt passing through it? if you tap it, maybe locktite on the threads since the pan metal is so thin. or slather it in high grade sealant instead of using a crush washer - the sealant might secure the bolt in place and seal it? fortunately the bolt isn't structural - it just needs to seal/stay in place. as long as the crush washer doesn't require more torque to seal than the threads can hold you should be golden. maybe use a rubber washer/oring/gasket just to get home and assess once you're there. i think i'd go the crush washer route if i were tack welding it in place and sealant if i wasn't going to tack weld.

someone previously damaged or repaired it. pick up the pieces on the ground and see what it was? i would tap the hole for a plug for now - but that pan is thin - i'd consider that a "get it home" repair. i wouldn't want that there permanently. maybe tap, thread in a bolt with a crush washer to seal it and tack weld the bolt head in place. i'm not sure if you ever need to remove it what happens - but a rivnut would be a nice clean repair - but the product and tooling may be annoying. weld it? i've seen people weld pans - i'm not sure how that works though - getting all the fluid out from the inside so it's not flammable - etc. i wouldn't do it myself, but others have done it.

if they're really bad they'll start swerving the car and take out your ABS - if your ABS lights aren't on then there isn't that much play. you're not mentioning any of that - so I wouldn't be scared to drive it 100 or so miles, not a big deal. you'll have those warning signs when they start going really wonky. they can easily go thousands of miles - but there's so much variance there - environment, use, temps, style, driving conditions...i wouldn't call mileage accurate at all. *** If they are that bad I would recommend replacing the hub as well - if they're that bad the hub is probably damaged and will damage the new bearings in short order. Get a used complete hub assembly ( that's how yards typically sell them anyway) and install it or new hub and bearings. www.car-part.com for used stuff - find a place that has both sides for $25 each and have them shipped to you. i'd avoid the northeast due to rust.

+1 install the Duty C switch so you can lock the 4WD in snow/offroad. cutting power to the Duty C gives full transfer pressure to the clutches and "locks" the 4WD. so you simply need a switch to cut that one wire and re-engage it. yes the clutch plates are replaceable, though they never really need it.

did the dealer disassemble to diagnosed or tested it? that drive gear/hub is replaceable. they shear off and can be pulled out and replaced. might be able to simply fix it which doesn't require dropping the transmission. but yeah - swap away if you want to install a whole new transmission. outbacks are 4.44 final drive ratio so you have to: 1. Get a transmission from a 1996-1999 EJ25 equipped outback or legacy (LSi, GT) or 98 Impreza RS/Forester or 2. Get a transmission from an EJ22 equipped legacy or impreza and also swap the rear differential to match. 1996-1998 and 99 legacy/outbacks will work.

clarify: "driveshaft" - do you mean one of the 4 CV axle shafts or the rear driveshaft? because those are both routinely called "driveshafts". The 1" too long comment sounds dubious - he made that up. What did he measure that's 1" too long - from where to where? There isn't a 1" too long CV shaft or driveshaft you could even buy to install...so I'm not sure where he could come up with that number. How did he have the eyes to spot a "1" too long driveshaft"? That's crazy. He saw something different - but he may be attributing something to those differences that isn't real.

i've matched sizes countless times without issues, that shouldn't be the issue. steps: 1. verify it's low. 2. find the leak if i'ts at an oring - then maybe you need to check that fitting. the hoses are prone to leaking too - check the hoses.

yes that's a typical heat marker put on after a headgasket or other major service.

an 02 will work. Dave - are you sure all legacy's are 4.11? in the 99's all Ej25 legacy's are 4.44.

I've done the exact same thing - FWD auto into an AWD 1996 Legacy. It's been a few years, I think I used the FWD trans mount. maybe compare photos and part numbers online? www.car-part.com and look for CORE transmissions maybe to find one worthy of parting out for cheap. parts wanted forum here or oher forums someone might have one?

depends what you mean by "being a dedicated Subaru mechanic". dedicated = specialized which can be a geat thing if done right. if you mean as an employee - if you found the right shop to work for it wouldn't cost anything if you used all their stuff. rare, but not impossible. others only require meager tool supplies and then you'll add more as needed and you see all your co-workers tool PRON if you're trying to be cheap you can piecemeal all the metric stuff you need from pawn shops or yardsales or craigslist for not much. then get a few ancillary stuff like 22mm socket and 32mm socket and cv band boots, etc. easily done for $200 or less. $50 if you want to be real cheap and are time rich dollar poor. successful people don't ask "how expensive will it be"....to go to college, start a business, get experience that leads me where I want to go....that's part of the equation and planning - but not the driving factor. decide if you really want to do something, if you're cut out for it, if it's marketable - and then devise a plan commensurate with that end goal. ask - WHAT will it take to do THAT. money will be only a small part of that plan.

read the codes - real simple, just search for the threads showing the connector above the gas pedal. ground the proper pin and it'll flash the codes. some years - like 95 and 96 have a relay/ABS pump issue. otherwise they're usually simple - just one of the sensors are compromised. there's one sensor at each wheel - they can be dirty/need cleaned or need replaced. with an FSM you could test the values of each ABS sensor via the connectors and a multimeter.