idosubaru

EJ25D's with OEM installed headgaskets almost always overheat as well - so if you're missing that symptom it's not sounding like headgaskets yet. unless the headgsakets have been replaced before. i think there's two style tests and one is more definitive than the other. can probably google it. no leaks? no overheating? no bubbes in overflow tank ever - after running, while running?

head studs are unnecessary. for EJ25's: resurface the heads and if you're interested in extra effort/cost - resurface the block face as well. also you need to use a good MLS head gasket - Six Star or OEM Turbo Ej25 headgaskets for SOHC EJ25's. although technically you haven't told us: what engine what you're doing what your goals are

idle controller or vacuum leak - ifhooked up it could sitll be a cracked hose, etc spray some carb cleaner around while it's running - if oyu hit a leak it'll surge like mad.

$70 for an oil pump is a great price, good job. no reason to buy the rockers, but i get that you want to do a good job. when reinstalling the cam carrier - make sure you use the metal reinforced oring in the lower corner and not a regular oring. the old one can be brittle/hardened and just look like an ancient used regular oring. and actually i think someone said the older EA82's (like 85 and 86) got regular orings there where later models got the metal reinforced ones. if you're retorquing the heads (FSM calls for it) - assemble the cam carriers without sealant. seal them the second time around.

used engine - resurface the heads, install EJ25 turbo headgaskets, and new timing belt kit. get one from a wreck with original headgaskets. www.car-part.com jdmenginedepot is online, they're about a grand or a little more, and they ship. outlier and anecdotal - but i bought one JDM engine and it had a blown headgasket when installed. their warranty was "we'll send you two new gaskets". hmm, no thanks, i'll pick my own gaskets.

no AT light blinking at start up? check engine lights? H6's of that vintage have TPS issues that cause erratic shifting and don't always throw a CEL. above and below that speed it works fine?

+1 i've got some old hard copies, wonder what they do now. come to think of it i don't know if i've ever seen a hard copy even for 2000+ models on ebay or someone else, etc....

manual - in gear, brakes on, chocked wheels. AT - through the bellhousing access hole - heavy duty screw driver or socket extension through hole in flexplate. i then use a 3 foot piper over my socket wrench and go to town. i've never used locktite, but makes perfect sense here to use the non-permanent variety.

yep, benign. when they say "glued in" - this is not typical glue like you may be thinking. you won't cut through this stuff with a knife. whatever adhesive you put on will not get in the way at all of any future windshield replacement if necessary.

how long have you owned this car - did you just get it last year?

find the leak. post pictures if you have to. stop leak is unlikely to help, i would quit adding that. leak towards the front of the transmission - where the axles connect is likely: 1. torque converter seal 2. the clamps/hoses that connect to the transmission 3. transmission pan - the gasket or pan itself is compromised (hole, rust, drain plug). when you say "it leaked out overnight" - do you literally mean it leaked overnight while sitting? or was it probably just low from driving the day before without adding anything and then was really low the next time you started it? 1. if it's the torque converter seal, it requires pulling the engine or transmission to replace. it's a $7 part and hundreds in labor. 2. if it's the clamps/hoses - replace the hoses as they're certainly old/brittle by now. tightening is unlikely to help and can sometimes make it worse 3. transmission pan - replace pan if it's compromised. drop it, clean it, reseal it if the gasket is leaking. 2 & 3 are cheap and easy - #1 is expensive.

duplicate

oil coolers are a place where oil and coolant could mix if oil coolers can fail internally. not sure about your year but i know earlier foresters had oil coolers. that kind of failure is nearly unheard of on that engine and it sounds like quite a bit. 1. was the coolant a significant amount low - equivalent to how high the oil was? 2. how long have you owned this car - how many miles? 3. what do the headgaskets look like - do they look like they've been replaced or the 10+ year old crusty originals? look where they protrude from the block. or post a picture of them. if they've been replaced then some failure is much more likely. if it's this bad - i would be surprised you've never had coolant loss, overheating. www.car-part.com

save yourself the hassle - prep it so the surface is flat and bolt the crank pulley on tight - 3 foot breaker bar and give it some stank. i have no idea how many crank pulley's i've installed without keys - they are totally unnecessary, particularly if it's your own car and you do all the work on it.

they take a little grunt to shove past the circlip. like he said - odd to randomly came out without any effort, was the strut/etc seeing some good tugging/pulling/working?

yep, it's been that way before, so i'm not surprised you're seeing it still. you could wait a couple years and they'll likely be free all over the internet like the 2 or 3 dozen Factory Service Manuals I have. i haven't paid for one since a 1988 XT6 factory service manual like 20 years ago.

install the head, first half of bolt, then slide the other half of bolt in place and weld it back togetehr insitu. LOL yep - it's really simple. 2 14mm nuts underneath and pitch stopper - it's only three fasteners and probably takes 4 minutes to remove them - less time than getting out a saw and cutting a head bolt.

my guess is headgaskets, but hopefully I'm wrong and it's something simple. you can have the coolant tested for exhaust gases. there's a chemical test available at auto parts stores and some mechanics have an electrical tester i believe. headgaskets push exhaust into the coolant and cause the coolant to push out of the radiator and into the overflow tank and push/boil out of the overflow tank. this causes coolant all over that area of the engine...it drips down from there and some may hit the fan and splatter around too. if it is headgaskets make sure they resurface the heads and use Subaru headgaskets on that engine.

ideally the timing pulleys are replaced as well - particularly the lower sprocketed pulley is prone to failure. Gates kits on amazon are $120 for an entire kit with belt, tensioner, and timing pulleys. but too late for that. no way to inspect the clutch - just tell him not to drive it nuts. if he doesn't beat it up and there's no slipping/issues now there shouldn't be any for such a short trip that would prevent him from getting home. drive gingerly at the first sign of symptoms and you can go a long time. clean battery posts and terminals...unless they look pristine. hard to say without seeing it - but check CV boots for cracking, low brake pads, sticking caliper slide pins are commonly an issue, clean and regrease them, check fluid levels.

soak that bolt in penetrant for days ahead of time - PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, YIELD. (not WD40). soak it for days or a week ahead of time and even set a soaking wet rag around it. Torch it. areas with significant rust it's not going to come out no matter what you do...except a torch and liberal application of heat. I'm sort of surprised there's no way to do this on the car without removing that bolt. Even the standard hub tamer tool doesn't allow doing the rear bearing without removing that bolt. If the rod that attaches to that bolt is easier to remove at the body side - you might be able to swap in a used knuckle assembly from the junk yard yard. that might be easier to remove than that lower knuckle bolt.

woah, nice! thanks for the picture. how many miles on the vehicle and was the rear diff fluid ever changed? so rare it's hard to say. an improper tow or mis-sized tire by a previous owner or infrequent oil changes would be just as likely as a random mechanical failure which is probably the case if you've owned it since new with none of those possibilities. by "infrequent" oil changes - these are robust and hardly require much maintenance, to cause damage it would likely have never been changed and has 10 year old fluid in it.

call Subaru or local dealers and ask them who/how they get their machine shop work done. they usually need to know where they can send stuff for head, flywheel, pressing work they sometimes need. i've done that in the past. might have to call a few to find one that's not using the place you went to before! maybe you can ship it somewhere? there used to be a flatrate box that flywheels fit into....probably not any more?

main shaft, input shaft, synchro's, more expensive torque bind issues, clutch maintenance, hydraulic clutch fluid, slave cylinder, and hose failure....if MT's are bulletproof then so are Subaru AT's. probably a wash - they're both great platforms, don't have many high percentage issues and respond well to good maintenance - it's a very low percentage of issues. in a used car the history and prior maintenance are probably orders of magnitude more important for the trans than whatever statistically relevant differences exist between MT and AT reliability/cost of maintenance. MT's require engine/trans removal for clutch replacement - significant expense. It's about equivalent to replacing an AT in labor costs. Parts wise - couple hundred for clutch kit, resurface flywheel, not much different from $250 - $500 for a used AT which are cheap and readily available due to lack of demand/good reliability/lots of them. Main difference in my book is that's a cost/time commitment that's likely never needed for an AT but always needed for an MT.

A. start it full of coolant, cold, and rev the engine a bit - Is it leaking? Is coolant showing anywhere? look for a leak then before it's exploded all over the place. B. what happens if you do a highway drive - then shut the car off and let it cool down without ever letting it overheat? 1. is it still wet? 2. is the radiator low on coolant? 3. does the overflow container show any movement? it's either a leak or a headgasket. Based on the heater core hack job and it only overheats on the highway the headgasket is highly suspicious. If it was just a leak I would expect some overheating at some point when it gets too low due to a leak. Of course it could just be the leak rate is slow and you haven't driven it far enough.... why was the heater core bypassed - if it's because the previous owner couldn't track down an odd overheating issue then it's probably the headgasket. but - before you freak out - those 2.2 headgaskets are crazy easy to replace. Can be done in the vehicle, the bolts are all external so there's no removing of the valve cover or cams at all necessary.

94 harness doesn't plug into EJ25 and you can't swap intakes. install the 2.5 wiring harness onto the 2.2 intake manifold.