idosubaru

I drive like that all the time, every snowy day of the year just about. A failed VLSD that has torque bind would be great in the snow. Won't the issue be that you can't always drive it in the snow? It snows in the morning then they clear the roads during the day so you gotta drive back home on dry pavement. XT6 and other PT4WD and FT4WD manual transmissions of the 70's, 80's, and early 90's actually drive like this be design. When in 4WD or when the Center Diff Lock button (FT4WD) is pushed - they are locked and have "torque bind". They drive great in the snow - XT6 is my preferred snow vehicle

once you get this fixed properly - you should change the oil since it's probably saturated with gas.

someone needs to look at the fuel system. it's puking fuel into the engine. you don't need more parts thrown at it - you need a proper diagnosis: check the fuel system pressure and find out where the fuel is going wonky. $2,700....that's a horrific maintenance/repair bill. and then $672 of more work that didn't fix the fuel issue.

"part" - what part? if you're current vehicle isn't a turbo then the EJ20 will easily bolt in but wiring/controller will be the issue. if that's the case the big hurdle will be your skills or money. it'll take a lot of one or the other.

a complete Gates timing kit is $115 on amazon. seals are like $5 each - so $150 or less in parts. should be able to find someone to do it for $500 or so, half that price. it can be done in 1-3 hours, not a big deal. water pumps rarely fail if you're looking to save a buck don't replace it. best to monitor the oil leaks - how much per thousand or oil change is it leaking? it may never get worse but seal leaks can progress quickly too - so keep an eye on oil level and pull over with any signs of issues.

that's a standard repair done by many people on here. there's threads about it - and widely available studs with standard oversize thread on one side and the metric exhaust size on the other. i'd search for the detailed threads on here about it.

EGR doesn't matter since you're installing this in a manual trans vehicle. It's only the automatics where EGR is trickier to work around (though there are multiple options) So this is really easy in your case. A few approaches are available: 1. Use the engine and body side wiring from a manual trans EJ22 without EGR and you're done. Easy. 2. An EGR engine with all the EGR stuff removed runs and drives just fine - it doesn't matter. That's how i did mine, no big deal. You get a check engine light but I just ignore it, in a swap you don't even need to hook up the CEL. LOL 3. Or, if you get an EGR equipped engine you can remove the EGR stuff and then simply reroute a hose/leave the EGR connected but not attached to the engine (i think that's how it's done, been awhile) and you're golden. There's a thread on here how to do that. You have a minimum of three easy solutions that require no ECU trickery.

if you can modify though and don't care about cutting and welding then you can basically do whatever you want. be nice to get one of those stock systems - they're made of high quality pipe that can take winter beating in our areas and not rust out as soon.

i've put large exhaust on older generation subaru's and noticed a loss in low end above 2.25" on 145 hp XT6's. no experience with newer stuff except that they seem to loose power when the exhaust falls off due to rust! i've driven an H6 and EJ around for awhile without a muffler and converter and they seem to loose some low end unless it's just the noise confusing my butt dyno!!

Or - to put it another way - many of us don't have the equipment, skill, or time to get into the processing side of the controller software. But please do recreate that software and free up every ounce of horsepower and gas mileage you can for us! and make me an ECU that can run an automatic without EGR!

auto's usually have EGR - so those two go hand in hand. yes there's an identifier pin i believe that tells the ECU if it's an automatic or manual trans. All ECU's run both auto and manual vehicles. it's just an ECU. all 1990-1998 EJ22 ECU's can run every 1990-1998 EJ engine (even the EJ25 and EJ18 - that's how simple this set up is), so the differences are menial to most people. it would be like asking you whether you prefer paper made from XYZ type of wood or ABC type of wood, it doesn't much matter. even for those of us that do swaps (me), while you like it and that's really cool, in the end it's benign and there's nothing to gain practically speaking. and many Subaru folks are very practical. presslab is probably one of the more familiar with coding here, though i don't know how much ECU stuff he's done. he's gotten into the TCU's.

oh my word you did this without gloves, you deserve an award! gloves and work over a large cardboard box so you can just throw the mess away when you're done.

Swap isn't worth it. But it can be done - swap trans, pedal cluster, cruise control computer (if you want to retain CC), interior center console, instrument cluster, rear driveshaft, rear differential, wire in the reverse lights... Much easier to get a MT vehicle and sell yours. A mitigating approach may be to get off the TV, video games, and get a hobby/interest so that moving a plastic handle 4 inches doesn't seem so thrilling. LOL

EJ22's are widely interchangeable - so yes you can bolt any intake manifold/wiring harness combination you want onto that engine. Want an OBDI engine - just bolt and OBDI Ej22 intake manifold to it. Same with OBDII, just bolt it on. . All 1990 - 1998 EJ22 intake manifolds are interchangeable. 1994 and earlier are OBDI 1995 and later are OBDII. but they're all interchangeable - just unbolt one intake manifold and install the other. EGR would be the only issue but that's emissions and not hard to work around. If they are dual port heads like it says, then 1995 or earlier heads, then the eads are from a non-interference engine. Assuming the block is original to the heads - and is a 1995 - then it's non-interference combination. It would be rare but if the block was swapped then it may be an interference engine with 1995 heads on it. i've seen, and done myself, block swaps before so it happens.

It can be whatever you want - just put an OBDI or II intake on it and that's what you have. they're entirely interchangeable. The photo shows no wiring harness on it - so right now it's not OBD anything. electronics "make it" OBDI or II, not the long block. It mentions dual port so the heads are 1995 or earlier. if we assume the heads are original to that block then the assembly is OBDII if it's a 1995 or OBDI if it's 1994 or earlier. it's missing the coolant cross over pipe, not that it's a big deal and probably in the parts stash anyway.

+1 to above - check fuse, check for power to the motor/seat. the switches seem to fail sometimes: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/29284-power-seat-problems.html the seat motors can fail: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/47447-power-seat-failure-drivers.html if it's the seat motors you could conceivably have the motor repaired - it looks like an average electrical motor so you'd just need brushes. some light banging/tapping on the motor housing often gets them moving (if only for a day) - like starters, lawn mowers, i've done it dozens of times. it knocks the dust off the internal components so electricity can flow again. if that works (which it did for one person in that thread it appears) - that almost verifies the brushes need replaced or the motor needs disassembled and repaired. brushes are usually like $10 - $20 for an electric motor, rather simple.

in US market Subaru's it's simply just disconnecting the battery over night. that era subaru is very simple, not much to it.

a gallon is excessive - it needs fixed. unless it's leaking externally it's not the water pump. you never actually told us what vehicle engine though i assume it's an EJ25? don't let the needle get up into the red. anything above normal is not ideal, but the red or close to red is bad. there's no strict rule like "at 194 degrees every engine ever made will get destroyed". it depends on assembly, prior care, and probably very minute things like heat transfer characteristics, conductivity, dynamic loading. there's no answer to your question about "when does damage occur" because it's an unknown differential equation with unknown variables. there's nothing that can be done to mitigate the issue - except dont' run it hot or out of coolant. change the coolant add coolant conditioner to 2000+ (and 99 forester and impreza RS) Ej25's. it has been suggested that the conductivity of the coolant may be a partial culprit so a good charging system and measuring voltage in the coolant may be helpful. if that's true...

older gen = no air bags. newer gen = air bags. retrofit a legacy system into one!

how about an EJ18? granted it's the PNW you're talking about but they have zero demand so prices should be reasonable sometimes. use EJ22 wiring by bolting EJ22 intake manifold on top of an EJ18 and it'll be plug and play to drop in an EJ22 when you find it.

The JC box you took a picture of is the TCU There's also the AT wiring on passengers side of engine bay that can also be disconnected. After driving it - check fluid while idling - is it full of bubbles? Probably dead ends but: 1. check the transmission pan - is there any sign of damage or prior repair? a. if there's signs of damage - it could be dented and pushed up into the wiring/solenoids, there isn't much clearance at all between the pan and those components. b. if there's signs of replacement it may have been damaged, replaced, but the wiring/solenoids are still damaged. unlikely without a code of course, but worth a ten second glance at the pan. 2. sounds like you may have done this already - wiggle the wiring aggressively (in reason of course) while the engine is running. start at the TPS and work your way back as far as the harness allows. a compromised wire will show itself by affecting engine running while you massage the wire. i located one like this years ago - no codes, couldn't find the issue - car ran terrible sometimes. notable change in engine running when doing test listed above....splice in a used TPS wiring sensor and all was good.

nasioc i think has a good "will this spring fit this strut fit this vehicle" thread. i've referenced it before. it is convoluted, hard to follow and find out sometimes

positive it's not fuel filler neck related? it's just a metal tank that has a very simple job - used is fine if it's not rusty. www.car-part.com i'm sure yo'ure familiar with that there are places that recondition the tanks too. they can repair and recoat them. i've never had to remove one yet, unsure on that part.

the turbo exhaust won't clear your non-turbo cross member. you need to install the turbo cross member, custom fabricate your cross member for exhaust clearance, or custom exhaust work. based on the piston design turbo engines are low compression and non turbo engines are high compression. technically you can install just the turbo if you keep the boost really low - like 3-7psi. without excellent engine management and care you run the risk of blowing your engine up, which is what most people do. you could swap the entire engine - block, turbo, and all. the electronics won't be the same either and require some tweaking. for the amount of work you'd be better off doing an EJ swap - hardly any more money or work and 10X the reliability, practicality, maintenance..etc.

just leave it in place, no need to remove it. if you do remove it, just eye ball it - no big deal. yes you can use a spacer to get the appropriate clearance or an appropriate feeler guage. it seems vague since it's a movable part, but don't let that scare you, it's really simple.