idosubaru

did that just happen - Oregon and crying about rust? Doesn't sound like rust related to me.

1. A/C 2. Heater core 3. Sunroof drain 4. Windshield leak Does your car have A/C and are you using it? (it's often used when raining outside to defog the windshield). The A/C system condenses water and that water flows out through a drain tube under the car - right around the passengers side area. If that drain gets clogged it backs up and spill over into the passengers side footwell area. And it will flow like crazy, creating a pond very quickly in humid situations. I fixed my in-laws 2009 Legacy which was doing this. Pulled the hose, ran a coat hanger through it to make sure it was passable and reinstalled - all is good. Does your car have a sunroof - those have similar drains as well that need inspected. Heater core leaking - smell any coolant smell? And of course windshield. On a dry day you can try isolating the water via a garden hose around the windshield edges and let it run and see if that brings water into the cabin.

You're sure the check engine light works? I'd get some seafoam in the gas/intake in case there's heavy build up in and around the valves. I once had a daily driver for my wife and I - 1997 Automatic 4EAT that would not downshift when the gas was floored, it would do the exact same thing on the same steep grades every time - 100% predictable...never downshift, i would have to manually downshift. Finally went away when I replaced the quarter sized filter in a vacuum tube hose on the passengers side. Goes from the intake manifold area to the passengers side fender well area in front of the strut tower. EGR solenoid related hoses I believe...but that's just a guess, this was 7 years ago. So either that filter/line was clogged or messing with those hoses did something. Swap injectors? Swap the ECU just for kicks...though it's nearly unheard of for Subaru ECU's to fail it does happen very rarely and they're easy to swap.

subaru has a site called "opposed forces" that shows all the part numbers and interchanges, though i haven't used it for body repair/SRS stuff before. check there first. if you see a few places cross referencing them then it's probably right - they generally do a good job of finding out which parts are interchangeable - it helps them with sales (well not in this case - it pointed you to other options LOL) i often look to ebay and other sites to confirm interchangeability. if you remove your existing blown bags can you get a part number off of them and type that into an online subaru parts site? often times parts have the numbers stamped on them. i've done a few rebuilds but have never looked for part numbers, Subaru's are generally like logos so i wouldn't be surprised at all for the imp/for to interchange, they usually do. but wanna be sure of course.

indeed, I have one of those too. he had already ruled that out and good work clarifying generally for future readers.

i gotta get my new torch dialed in, i haven't used it yet but a buddy just borrowed it for some brazing so it's ready....

yes - easy way is XT6's have headlight washer squirters, small black headed plastic grommet like things poking through the front bumper. XT doesn't get those, only the 6 cylinder. if it sits one side or front/rear a lot higher than the rest - or really low like "slammed" to the ground, then that suggests an AWD XT6. all AWD XT6's had air suspension and if left to sit they will usually bleed off air and sit really low. as you know - xt6's are 5 lug and 4 cylinders are all 4 lug. some XT's have luggage racks on them, all black in stock OEM form, is that the kind of "spoiler" you mean?

yep - do it right. i was just jabbering since you sounded motivated to do it "on the cheap".

Got it - I thought the change came after the 3rd gen facelift...like 02...04 or something, I think Foresters are later like that. Good to know finally. You are correct, the rust is pretty much noise all the time for the brakes., good call. Well so much for the simple fix. You did this job once - do the bearings have any access at all? If so, squeezing some fresh grease in them with a needle attachment of your grease gun would most likely quiet them up. You could put an add in the parts wanted forum and some of the non-rust people might have one they could send you. A used bearing isn't really worth anything so if you can find someone parting it out. Easy to replace, don't fail very often, gives plenty of warning when they're warn out...sounds like a good option if you can find one.

make sure it's not a rusty dust shield or rotor rubbing causing the noise? i've seen the edges of rotors rusty and rubbing or the inside of the rotor is built up with rust and rubbing on the inner emergency brake shoes. creates a nice growling sound that could be mistaken for wheel bearings. have to wire wheel the rotor, if the rust is bad even adjusting the shoes doesn't really pull them off enough. Did the car sit before you bought it? If so then that makes me suspect rotor rust build up. Did the previous owner have any thoughts or prior diagnosis/shops comment on the noise? I forget when they changed...does the 2000 have the bolt-on-bearings? I assume so since you mentioned how easy the first one was? could you attempt to remove the entire knuckle assembly if the bearing alone won't come off of a used one?

i've torched bushings before, burn them out, but i have no idea if that's a good idea or not ! never heard of anyone else doing that so there are probably some good reasons?

oh okay, it was dark and I was turning the nut without removing the wheel so I couldn't even see the end. thanks guys! with the rust we have here (porcupine you get it!) i wonder if it will hold and break loose but hopefully something breaks!

The "vibration in the coil spring" is not a definitive test, so I wouldn't let that deter you from thinking it's a bad wheel bearing. Actually, the few times I've tried the "vibration in the spring" test based on people suggesting it here, it never worked. Granted I've only tried that method a couple times since usually I'm sure and if I'm not I just use a temp gun. So - try a temp gun if you have one? And in the end I wouldn't put much faith in the coil-spring test now or in the future. It's nice if it does confirm it for you, but it easily gives false negatives too.

Trying to remove the end links from a 2002 OBW H6 rear sway bar. The nut just spins and spins with the shaft from the end link - it doesn't back off the stud....rust of course.

Wheel bearings. Have someone sit in the rear to determine which side it is.

That EJ25 intake manifold does not bolt up to that EJ22. Find the pin/wire for the knock sensor and splice into the wire just behind the engine harness. In the unlikely event that yours was not at all repairable, you can still access the wire at the body side connector. It's just one wire, keep it simple, this would save a lot of work. I would wait until your knock sensor is installed before digging into issues.

I would only consider it if that particular engine is known to have headgasket issues? Also some headgaskets are easily done in the vehicle - that would also encourage me not to worry about it now.

yes

wow - what a debacle. i finally found at least a picture of the clips that i need - they're very "short", only like half of a normal Subaru clip, like here: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_premium-ceramic-brake-pads-wearever-platinum_10145783-p?searchTerm=front+brake+hardware That is showing for a 1999 Forester. Parts stores do not seem to carry them, guess I'll have to order it online. okay finally found them locally here: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_disc-brake-hardware-kit-wearever_20310144-p?searchTerm=brake+hardware Apparently the 721 designation i a key help in narrowing this down.

Clips didn't work - so 02 and 03 clips don't work on this 02 OBW? But I found pads that do. I had a set of pads in my garage that were the right pads....but online is unbelievably confusing. The websites are saying that these pads fit 2002 Subaru Outbacks H6's...and they definitely do not fit mine nor are the standard offerings from most online suppliers for that year model...so I still can't figure out what these pads come from? AC Delco 14D721C http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-14D721C-Advantage-Front-Ceramic/dp/B004960WY0 GM# 19286074 Searching by that last "GM" number gives more hits.

you could try to verify pulleys spacing by seeing if the power steering belts and crank pulleys are the same or interchangeable between two given years. i've never replaced one of the new pumps, not sure if it's because average age/mileage is less or they are more robust though, i have no idea. one reason may be the reservoir o-ring that always leaks is now gone. every single leaking power steering pump i've seen leaks at the oring between the reservoir and pump. the new system doesn't have that any more, the hoses are likely more robust. so that means fewer system leaks and fewer systems run low on oil.

you need to talk to someone from that area. "emissions testing" means varies by state (even within states). in Maryland it is very simple and your car would easily be capable of passing without much effort, it simply involves: 1. no check engine light 2. they test your actual emission - the sniff test. there is no visual inspection, you can do whatever you want to the engine, swap engines, swap whatever all day long....as long as there is no check engine light and you're under limits for the sniff test you're golden. Atlanta, Georgia used to be the same way. Being close to California maybe you're hosed and they're far more ridiculous about it. some other states have visual components to the test and monitor much more closely.

the pads were "chipped" around the edges, maybe just coincidence but i was wondering if the fatigue from moving/sliding/hitting the caliper bracket may have caused that? mainly the top edge i believe, so that's not in contact with anything. either way, not a big deal as i'm installing new pads.

thanks beast, good to know for folks (me) getting these kits online all the time. who is bored and wants to surf on opposed forces or Subaru online store? i'm on dial up so not raising my hand!

i checked and the rotors appear the same size...but if they're 1/4" off or something i may not have noticed since i didn't whip out a ruler. i have seen these style pads before, I'm just a bit confused by this 02 has them and my 03 OB doesn't...but, my 03 is an H6 OB Sedan rather than a wagon, so who knows. Those aren't that common so maybe they just got whatever tossed on them, LOL