idosubaru

WHAT!? Okay so you're talking Negative 70 degrees F? Really? That's 100 degrees below freezing, I'm fairly certain we can rule out frozen water in the lines since it sounds like it's always frozen up there. That kind of cold alone might be the problem. I'd convert to coil overs, it would be very, very easy and it's done all the time. I have a converted car in my garage right now - originally air, now it's not. It should be fixable, but yes these systems can be very complicated. Being new I think it's going to be very hard to guess what's wrong. If it was old I'd say replace all the orings, but it's not so they shouldn't be compromised. Here's a trace from one strut through the system: Strut, height sensor, strut fitting, air line, solenoid fitting (oring), solenoid, another solenoid fitting and oring, air line back to the drier (another oring and the base of the drier fittings can crack and leak), then the compressor (oring, valve), then the storage tank with pressure sensor, air line fitting, solenoid, and 2 orings. multiply all that strut stuff times 4 plus the computer and wiring and you have a lot of possible options. That's why it's hard.

Pretty sure someone put one in an XT before as well...Georgia maybe, might find some info here or on the XT boards?

i'm all about having extra parts around, so my gut feeling is buy it. i can always put it in something and sell it or sell it later. but i know that's not always a good fit for everyone.

You said cold weather is 67-78 and warm weather is 40-50. Can you explain? I would monitor the temps and see if it's related to just hot/cold or if actually it's related to below/above freezing. The XT6 came with air suspension so those of us that have owned one (or a few) have some experience with them. Air suspension systems can be very complicated. You might even want to visit subaruxt.com as your system will be nearly identical functionally speaking. You'll probably get much more input there as many of us have worked on dozens of air suspension, built controllers, manually controlled them, etc. Odd you're having issues with a 2001 though. New dampers (air struts/bags i assume are the same thing) will not likely solve the problem. The real problem with the air suspension is a lack of diagnosis. Nearly every mechanic (dealer included) is going to throw all high dollar parts at this. When in reality many issues are something simple like a 50 cent oring. But you'll never find a mechanic to diagnose and replace those things. They will replace them incidentally when higher dollar items are replaced - like the compressor or strut. Your 50 cent oring was replaced when the new $500 compressor was installed, is that the proper fix? What ever work they do i would demand new orings all the way around. If this causes problems or becomes a money pit, frankly the cheapest and easiest long term solution is to swap to coil over struts. Get a set of coil overs from another Legacy and they'll swap right in. Although I still have air suspension in my XT6 it actually rides really nice.

the rear main seal is the most likely to leak after install too. personally i'd remove it and go with a Subaru unit on the rear. i've had felpro seals leak and be noticeably unfitting. i've also used FelPro seals plenty of times too, but for the rear main i like just getting one from Subaru. there's also numerous threads about rear main seals leaking soon after install - so they're obviously not very forgiving. Mr. Radon and Steve (XNRSG or whatever is user name is) are two i can think of off the top of my head and they know what they're doing. Mr. Radons was a fel pro seal as well i believe. Anyway - if the seal looks compromised at all I'd junk it. And make sure it seats in flush as you tap it in. Use some pipe or PVC as a seal installer.

No. And...you're starting to see the light. Save yourself the hassle, it's well worth it. The covers are just plastic covers, they're rather meaningless really.

i wasn't trying to undermine your decision. only that EJ transmissions are available for a decent price in some areas - it's not like some parts which fail frequently that are hard to find like an EJ25. it's up to him to determine if it's worth it or not or how easily he can source a trans - http://www.car-parts.com is a good place to start. my goal isn't to hurt your sale but to provide options. if money matters there might be a better fit for this guy than buying a transmission 'just in case'.

sounds like you have a problem, it shouldn't shift that early floored. i agree to start another thread about it, but i'm not sure on what would cause it.

If retaining the original EA82 in the car - the trans won't bolt up....without some extra work/parts. Speed sensor is electrical, but you just swap your EA sensor into the EJ trans if it is different. I'd swap all at once and be done with it. With a good choice of engine and trans you have an easy 100,000+ mile car, so I'd just do it once and do it right. If money is an issue why not just keep driving the car as is rather than fixing something that isn't broke? I wouldn't do phases or purchase parts "just in case", save the cash for when something does happen. Here's why: 4EAT's are a dime a dozen. They're very reliable and not hard to find cheap (because they don't fail very often). Last one I bought from a yard was $150, under 100,000 miles, 6 months warranty, works fantastic and is in one of my daily drivers. Not worth the hassle of storing parts to me when they're that cheap and easy to find. Change your fluid and rotate your tires. An EJ is only going to be as reliable as the cash you throw at it - timing belt kit, water pump, cam seals/orings, reseal oil pump, tune up, valve cover gaskets, PCV, plugs, wires, rear separator plate, etc. EJ motors are fantastic but I'd also try to keep a clear picture in mind too if money is in the equation.

Options: subaru a yard with a junk motor (core motor). post in the parts wanted forum here. Another option is what a number of us do and don't use any timing belt covers. They're unnecessary and an annoyance to people who's time is valuable. *** I noticed you replied to a 1992 Legacy thread - that's a completely different motor, those covers won't work for you.

The amplifier thing comes to mind but I've never actually seen one randomly fail while driving. Usually due to some other electrical issue, sitting for a long time, etc. My first thought is if the timing belt broke. Which is probably why the previous poster asked about the disty turning.

i'm not sure what would cause that. if it runs fine is it an option to just leave it like that for now? black tape or unplugging the wires will rid you of the light. the rear cam cap oring is really easy to replace. two bolts, a couple minutes, and done. the front obviously requires timing belt removal.

Find another mechanic if they're that paranoid. MAF sensors are really easy to replace (about 15 minutes). They very rarely fail so they're a dime a dozen used, one of the silliest parts ever to replace new. The only one I've ever replaced was on an old 80's Subaru. Personally I'd just order a used one for $20 delivered to my door and install it. As to your comments Fairtax - you don't say what happened. Did you diagnose, fix it....

Properly repaired, the EJ25 head gaskets are not likely to have problems. Personally I would never drive a 1996-1999 EJ25 vehicle unless they've already been replaced, for that reason. The 97 verses 06 just comes down to personal preference and money, that's it. The 97 can be a very reliable car and is likely to make another 100,000-200,000 miles with a few repairs along the way - a wheel bearing, alternator, knock sensor, etc. Not likely to have anything major if it's maintained well. The 06 isn't likely to have things like that go wrong with it. 06's are not known for head gasket issues. Subaru is well aware of the head gasket issue in that motor and has taken significant steps throughout the 2000's to address it. My guess is they should have it fixed by now.

that's all well covered here. documentation gets thing in the later models like 2005 +. search for engine swap stuff and you'll find it. no - a 1999 OBW will not swap with a 2000 Forester. in general for EJ25's, these years are interchangeable: 1996-1999 (except 1999 Forester) EJ25's are all interchangeable. 2000+ (1999 Forester) are interchangeable, not sure when they change after that though.

This isn't strange, sounds very normal. All obvious cooling system items that are fundamental to all other cars should be checked. But it's a likely head gasket, sounds like classic symptoms to me. You don't even have a hard one - mechanics get really confused when they pass compression tests and early ones can even pass hydrocarbon tests - those give mechanics migraines. $1,000 later and they still don't have it fixed . The extended 100,000 mile headgasket warranty mentioned is only applicable to 2000-2002 models. Occasionally there's situations where Subaru dealers or regional folks have assisted with head gasket repairs, so it's a worth a shot. EJ25 headgaskets are covered like nuts on here and all over the internet, so everything you'll need or want to know is easily available.

that's a lot of info. the hesitation you're experiencing is probably ignition wire related. when the work is done they are removed and reinstalled...thereby "resetting" and temporarily masking the issue. you need not only new ignition wires but your best bet is to install Subaru OEM wires and the same plugs that came with the car when it was new. These engines are not forgiving at all. I've seen hesitation and even nearly undrivable conditions on EJ motors (which you have) with new aftermarket ignition parts. headgaskets on this motor will not cause any running problems until it runs out of coolant and overheats and blows up the motor. otherwise these engines actually run indefinitely if you keep filling the coolant up. when the valves were done - new headgaskets had to be installed. it's very odd for the headgaskets to blow a second time unless they weren't done right. if the heads weren't surfaced, non-Subaru gaskets were used, or the coolant additive wasn't added that Subaru requires on this motor, that could be why your gaskets are leaking again. done right they should last the life of the vehicle.

seems to me there's 4,000 miles and a few months of warranty left, contact local subaru dealer immediately.

It's actually really easy to have a look at the belt. Takes about 10 minutes. You need a 10mm wrench and or socket. Remove three screws/bolts on either side of the timing belt cover. Takes about 5 minutes and is about as easy as unscrewing anything else, very simple. Then look at the belt. The sure fire way to know it's been changed is if it's not a Subaru belt, meaning it was done by a independent mechanic. If it is Subaru then you can go by the looks of the belt/writing on the belt or the belt itself. Take a picture of it and post it here, those of us that have done countless timing belts can probably tell you just by looking. Take a picture of the writing on the belt. Once the cover is off you might not be able to see the writing, depending where the belt "stopped". You can turn the engine over by hand with a 22mm socket or just turn the engine on and off a few times until you can see the writing. If your engine noise goes away after it warms up then you have piston slap and there's no cure for it outside of replacing pistons which is insanely expensive and intrusive to the motor. Not likely to be something you want to do - well over $1,000 to fix. The good new is that it's benign and doesn't hurt anything, just your sanity.

sweet, awesome! yeah somehow my 1996 Legacy Lsi is rust free, it's absolutely spotless and was a one owner car from Pittsburgh go figure.

driveshaft to the rear diff is two pieces. remove the rear half. the front half seals the rear output shaft seal area and fluid in, you'll be leaving that in place. once the cover plate is out of the way (if it's even present) it's only 8 12mm nuts to remove the driveshaft and you're done. very quick and simple. i've owned a 97 OBS and the OBDII scanners work with those. although i've never tried to rear the TCU codes, that's another ball game, i was speaking only have Check Engine Light codes. my OBDII scanner has worked on every 1997 Subaru I've worked on actually, so my assumption is they should work. good luck.

Oh gotcha, I didn't see that and it doesn't look like a typical OBDII scanner. OBDII scanners work with a 1997 OBS - the problem lies with the device in your case.

what are you saying? he's talking about OBDII scanners, that link is not an OBDII scanner. i've never had a problem reading codes from a 1997 OBS with a scanner, so your reply is a bit confusing to anyone that doesn't understand these thigns and that they work in just about every car made since 1997, certainly all Subarus. OBDII is standardized and should work in any vehicle.

you don't say but you must have an auto trans. those drain plugs are for two different things. the rearmost plug is the ATF and the front plug is the front differential gear oil plug. the transmission and front differential are one assembled unit. yes you can remove the cv from the trans without entirely removing it from the hub. that's the easiest way to do it. with the wheel removed you'll notice two bolts holding the strut to the hub. mark the head of the top strut mount bolt in such a way that you can reinstall it exactly as it is before you loosen it, i use a chisel and knock a cut into the top of the head bolt and the strut flange and line those up when i reinstall. remove that top strut mount bolt. loosen the lower bolt and then pull the strut/top of the hub and it will pull away from the car and rotate on the bottom bolt, with plenty of room to pull it off the trans.

that one. there's tons of companies here importing them, so just pick one from whoever you want.