idosubaru

Anyone have a vehicle that is a non EGR EJ22 or EJ25? Interested in finding out the ECU part number for such a vehicle. Year, make, model would be interesting too.

Actually what might be helpful is to find a "part number" for one of these unicorns, then I think it'd be easier to locate one.

I think the single port came before interference, which was caused by piston changes not head changes in 97MY. The OP can qualify it more if it matters since he doesn't say why he's asking.

That's a good point - 97 would be the only "full year" that i would trust if it mattered. Single port started in 96, but I doubt all 96's are singles. Did all the changes happen at the same time - timing tensioner, interference, single port? I was under the impression that single port heads did not necessarily mean interference engine.

I'm not positive what you're asking but I think you mean to say single verses dual port heads? All EJ25's and EJ18's in 1996 will be dual port heads (and therefore the dual port set up exhaust I think you're asking about). A 1996 EJ22 will be single port. So I think you're talking about EJ22 stuff - 1996 2.2 liter engines available in Impreza's, Legacy's, and manual trans OBW's.

I think you need a non-EGR 1997+ ECU but they're rather hard to find I believe.

i've done it before too. their ear protection suggestions are not jokes, it's REALLY loud, like probably not healthy. i drove a good bit like this before, it's numbing...just hurts you, not the car

yeah this sounds really bad, you're motor is probably toast. but at least check the timing belt and/or compression. lifters generally pump back up by themselves if they have hydraulic valve lash adjusters, those of us that have torn these motors down deal with that every time putting them back together. they're generally insanely noisey but quiet up as the air is alleviated from the oil supply. i doubt this is your issue.

something to help lift it through the engine bay is nice. engine lift with some chain snaked down through to the trans. coming out is the easy part...really quick and easy. getting it back in is the fun part. a trans adapter would be nice and i'll probably get one if it ever comes down to doing a trans swap again.

Uh yeah, water pump means pulling the timing *chain*, not fun. I'm thinking when the pulley/belt cut loose it probably clipped a hose and caused a leak. Would be odd to have two failures like this so close to each other, my guess is they're related. Have you checked the coolant level? Be sure to use the proper fluid since the water pump is so inaccessible. Idler pulley issues are common on the H6. You probalby know already since i see you on the outback forum but a lot of people are replacing both of them as prevenative maintenance. They're easily replaceable in any garage. There are two pulleys, i'd repair the other one now. It didn't even take 30 minutes to remove them, knock the old bearings out and install the new bearings which cost like $3. There's a really good thread about those on subaruoutback.org.

Yes, diagnose is not a concern here.

oh right on, i wasn't trying to be mean, good stuff.

part numbers in these threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75577&highlight=31942aa090 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=steamin53&page=3

I prefer the XT6 trans , but the difference is small and I'm by no means a "sporting" kind of driver, in which case i'd favor the EJ stuff. EJ = clutch options, easier to bolt up, easy to find a replacement or parts should you ever need to.

The dude - you can probably start your own thread since this guy is still trouble shooting. Maybe a mod can separate this for you? In general - try and feel the heater core lines. Maybe that will tell you something? If one is hot and the other not, then it's likely clogged. I've seen clogged heater cores before. Lots of trash comes out when you flush them.

I totally agree that's a smoking good price, particularly since we'd both rather him go to a dealer....but it's too good! I'm wondering if he's going to end up needing....clutches (which i know he doesn't need), hub, all new exhaust, etc by the time it's done. A sort of baiting tactic if you will. So have others had a Subaru dealer install used or parts bought elsewhere? I've only really dealth extensively with two dealers, but neither of them do that.

What they said. All the suspension and "platform" is the same. Not sure where the "change" takes place but the windshield, doors, and glass are all different. Or...at least I thought the windshield was different, maybe not? The XT6 has some suspension differences - basically the rear is still EA and the front is EJ style. The later model XT's differ slightly from the older ones. But don't think that matters to you.

Since you've seen some Subaru diodes - is there any chance of taking a picture of one, I'm curious what they look like and how they're wired in since I suspect that is causing a problem. Anyway - diodes prevent backfeed so sounds like you're on the right track for fixing it, though I have no clue how to proceed from there. Testing another stock EJ isn't an option is it? I'm not quite seeing the exact issue/wire, but maybe comparing current would help?

Okay, good, that's helpful for sure. Except I'm still baffled it's running hot?!?!? I've never seen a clogged heater core cause a car to overheat either. Is it possible for the radiator to feel hot but not be circulating enough? Seems like it has to be related to the recent work. Strange though that you drove it for a day without issue.

Been talking to a friend about his trans for awhile and he needs the Duty C replaced. Gwinnet Subaru quoted him $200 to replace his Duty C Solenoid if he brings the part in. Two thoughts: The Subaru dealers I've dealt with won't install supplied parts. $200 seems really cheap for just labor. Didn't Will (WJM) used to work at Gwinnet Subaru?

Okay - let's start over sort of. Overheating and no heat - coolant isn't cylcling properly. What's the deal on the thermostat? Is it aftermarket or Subaru? Aftermarkets are notorious for being cheap, you can tell just by sitting it side by side with a Subaru tstat. Get it up to operating temperature and feel the water hoses and radiator. One of those infrared temperature guns are really nice here, start seeing where the cold/hot spots are. Kind of hard to touch much of the radiator particularly with the fans in the way, might remove those first just as a test? If the hoses or radiator have cool spots on them then coolant isn't moving.

exhaust gases into coolant is typical of later motors, i've never seen it on the older stuff - but it's probably possible.

Now that you mention it....I thought those compression numbers looked high - i've never gotten numbers that high on older subaru's. I think they're supposed to be around 150-170. But I just figured something else was causing or I was missing something. If they're leaking bad you can sometimes pull the spark plugs and see coolant down in the cylinders with a good light. I've done that before. I wouldn't spend too much time worrying about burping, that's not likely to be your issue. I've never had a problem with air in these older ones, it's the newer Subarus that are notorious for that.

your used radiator is probably clogged. depending how bad your old one is, it might be repairable at a radiator shop.

i would search for piston slap and see if that's what you're experience. other causes of ticking noises are failing timing tensioners, and will cause no other issues. oil pumps can cause noises too from what I've "heard" but i've never *seen* it before so not sure. doubt that's it though.