idosubaru

Good glad you’re all done with it. Motor on.

Yep sure can. Oh you mean instead of a gasket? Never done that. I can’t see why that would be a problem, that would be an awfully small thickness difference between the case and rear transfer using RTV instead of the gasket Capture the fluid and reuse it. I drain the pan and don’t recall much coming out but I may not pay much attention either. Ah good. Yep date codes often one sided. maybe the tires are fine once this sloppy trans is tightened up.

Not typically how it’s done so I’m not familiar with it. Stock struts and lift kits are so widely available any other option will be low volume high cost. Does KYB offer loaded struts for that year? I think they’ve started selling some loaddd struts for Subaru But they’ll be stock height The other preloaded struts and aftermarket struts can suck REAL bad too. I haven’t seen many but the preloaded struts I’ve seen are floaty and ride terrible. I’ve seen trashy new aftermarket struts, new aftermarket strut mounts fail in less than a week. I *totally get* that sprint compressing is annoying. But KYB is so cheap and repeatable that’s not worth my time. I would install New KYB struts, retain OEM springs, probably replace the spring on the one bad strut (depending what “blown” means), and install an SJR lift kit.

What they said. Brand doesn’t matter. I’ve seen people many times drive 200k without ever changing Subaru ATF so they’re robust and forgiving. Changing it properly is 90% of the value another 9% is choosing a high grade Amsoil or Redline you’re likely to avoid due to cost. change it 3 times to get all the old fluid out. Change it with whatever is on sale or your friends uncles neighbor recommends. It doesn’t matter. If you’re chasing lazy shifting or performance or want top grade fluid get Redline or Amsoil which meets the spec. Run about $100 in fluid but it’s good stuff.

Yeah it’s can be hard to find particularly if you’re not used to looking. Its almost always closer to the wheel than the outer edge. It’s usually in a small box like 2” across and an inch or less high. Rectangular or rectangular with round corners. But everything you’ve said tells me they’re trash. In addition to prior description you didn’t follow up with any recollection of how old they ‘might’ be. Sounds like garbage. I’m hard on tires obviously but living in Unmaintained mountains makes it real clear to see. The 4EATs do get a little slow and sloppy but I wouldn’t condemn the thing until it’s got at a minimum known good tires to make a fair test (ideally new so it’s not a guess), and preferably fresh fluid. People rave at 4EAT improvements with some redline ATF but that’s $$$ and a fluid change alone can help.

I’ve bought EA82 racks not too long ago for like $100. Did your try Rock auto and eBay? Your best bet is to do a quick search on Subaru Online site, rock auto, a national chain and then ask here if you have any questions. Do not look for “one store” to supply all your old gen Subaru needs. That’s gonna suck.

you can swap the entire engine, body side harness and ECU. At best it’s plug and play-ish...but... Those aren’t US offerings so be careful with US based feedback. That’s not a 97 engine we received in the US and 97 is Phase I and 03 is Phase 2 and they are not compatible as a plug and play swap. It can be done still but it’s not as straight forward as other EJ swaps.

www.car-part.com

Yeah while it’s easy that also means it won’t take long for a mechanic to do so a fair one should be very reasonable. They’re so inexpensive I always use Subaru.

Thanks Chris. Welcome to USMB. Subaru should grab an office a few miles away from Cherry Hill, in DE for tax free perks like Jos A Banks and others do!

Do not damage the threads when replacing. Overtightening is bad. That might be the oil pressure sender rather than the switch. But either way same deal - remove part, replace, easy job.

1. replace all of the pulleys. a. cheap kits, run no covers, and check or replace them often. no big deal, easy to check. b. or use better stuff and replace at longer intervals 2. i would look at the crank sprockets and make sure they're not warn or damaged from prior crank pulley bolt looseness/failure. it's not uncommon for people to not tighten the crank pulley bolt enough (someone just posted a thread about rebuilding and engine because of it last week) - it loosens and wobbles and hogs up the crank snout, crank pulley, and timing sprockets. they then replace the mangled crank pulley and bolt but leave the damaged sprockets in place. I'd pull the crank sprockets, or at least verify the outer edge of the first one is fine and see if they're not sitting square or flush. Although my guess is they are perfectly fine based on which side is worse - but being remote and not seeing the car it would just be a good idea to check it.

Good luck! That's a fantastic car, and one of my favorite color schemes of all the XT's. That maroon looks real sharp and is used often for photos https://autopolis.wordpress.com/2009/08/06/1985-1990-subaru-xtxt6/ I didn't mean to flood the thread with shipping - I've done just enough international shipping to have a rough idea of the process. but it's still confusing due to various rules, tiers for different countries, size, and other logistics. so I'm not sure until I finish all the post office details, customs, and pay for the label.

An 80s GL can be EA81 or EA82, which is it? Turbo or nonturbo? Your loyal is 4WD right? clutch is cable so there’s no cylinder to mess with. Cable is more reliable and less maintenance work anyway. Hydraulic clutches are a complete waste of my time for no gain. If the donor is an EA82 nonturbo your loyale axles slide right onto the trans. No axles or hubs needed. all EA82 rear axles are interchangeable. although if any of the axles are original Subaru with green cups they’d be worth saving.

duplicate

I logged into my shipping account. With a German address, 10 pounds shipping weight, Priority Mail International was $78.52. 7 pounds = $67.40 5 pounds = $60.09 Which is similar to the charts and data I linked to above. When I enter an Envelope and 1 ounce, I get $35.60 - so that price you quoted seems to be for a light weight envelope, not a large, heavy package. If I select First Class (which is typically cheaper and takes longer than Priority) - it won't let me enter any weight over 4 pounds and says: "The weight entered is more than the maximum value for this package type"

Also I've been driving XT's for 28 years, was in the original Yahoo XT boards in the 90's where I met a few of the current members here (john, huck, austin...), have been moderator of Subaruxt.com forever (which went down and has massive background issues last year), and have shipped XT parts to Europe, New Zealand, Australia...and I think South America. Anyway, all that to say, I'm not going anywhere and I've got enough experience to easily pull this off. I don't think the rear side glass is tinted at all is it - so all XT's should be the same?

Sorry this turned into an essay.....i'll add some bold to help organize it.... An alternative option: Here's a way you and your wife can almost both get what you wanted. You can add the extended warranty at any time up until the Basic warranty runs out - so if your curren Basic warranty is 3 years 36,000/miles - you can wait 3 years or until just prior to 36,000 miles and add it then. I'm pretty sure Subaru will be sending you plenty of marketing material to remind you of this when the time comes. Then if for some reason the car is stolen, burnt in a fire, wrecked, totaled due to hailstorm before that 36,000 miles - you paid nothing for the extended warranty which you never used. If you pay it now and something like that happens in the first couple years - you're out the warranty purchase money and it never protected you. I'd wait. The only down side is the price potentially going up. Getting the warranty now: If you still want the warranty now. Here's what I would do. I would call a few other distant dealers and ask them for a quote, and if they can't sell you one, try to ask them what they're current offerings are. Then I would ask your local dealer if they can match it, preferably I'd go in person and say something like "Hey I'd prefer to continue a working relationship here but was also wondering if there's a way to close this large gap between warranty pricing I'm seeing?" Of course these are odd times to go in person but you might have to "pay to play" if you don't want to do that. That's often how the market works - they'll wait to see who's serious before they budge. And see if they'll come down. Then you get a reduced price but still maintain a connection to the local dealer which I find helpful. If they don't budge at all then yeah try to get an actual quote/sale from another dealer. Where: Yes I think they are trying to reduce the nationwide shopping spree for warranty's but I'm not sure they put a total stop to it. I would still call a couple of the real big, nationally recognized high volume dealers and ask. I'd call Carl Abrams at the big Oklahoma City Subaru dealer. He's helped me out before and got a friend of mine in Southern GA - very close to FL, an extended warranty for much cheaper. But that was like 2 years ago. You might call Liberty, Westchester (ask for Luke), Planet Subaru in Boston - or try Atlanta since it's close. The southern GA dealers quoted my friend fairly high prices as well.

drain all the gas you can from the tank and lines in the vehicle. install new fuel filter and fuel pump. injectors should be tested at a minimum (if that's possible, i've never heard of anyone testing them) or cleaned. over here there are companies that clean injectors. i think John has used this company before: https://www.witchhunter.com/ I'm not sure if old gas can harm the fuel pressure regulator but I would ask if there's any way to clean or test that.

Post a link to where you got that information from. This site is showing the rates I quoted, so something is way off: https://pe.usps.com/text/dmm300/Notice123.htm?_gl=1*17cwbj8*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE2MDc1MjE4NzAuQ2p3S0NBaUFpTUwtQlJBQUVpd0F1V1ZnZ29YS1daVlM3Q010aktJbjFIUkZVVU9tWnJZUlRJb01mSGNWbTJoSFJTcHhySUtFaERKS1Zob0NlakFRQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE2MDc1MjE4NzAuQ2p3S0NBaUFpTUwtQlJBQUVpd0F1V1ZnZ29YS1daVlM3Q010aktJbjFIUkZVVU9tWnJZUlRJb01mSGNWbTJoSFJTcHhySUtFaERKS1Zob0NlakFRQXZEX0J3RQ..#_c330

Yes if a FWD fuse is installed, or the 4WD is “locked” and a driveshaft removed. Yes if the tires are garbage, which unknown unnamed “half tread snow tires” could easily be. Maybe theyre Nokians, manufactured last year and were driven 25,000 miles....? A lot of (cheap) snow tires are garbage, particularly after year 1 or 2. I’ve seen them do fine for a year or two then drop off a cliff. I’ve seen them perform wretchedly dangerous and shown initial signs of material degradation at two years old and 75% tread depth. Tread depth isn’t very telling and I consider 50% snows more of a red flag than 50% all seasons . I’d consider any 50% snow tires garbage. I might still drive them, like on dry roads only or light easy snow. but they’re trash unless I know the brand age and miles and that it wasn’t stored outside in the sun too long. 02 and UV degrades the materials quickly. cheap snow tires seem to have less of those imbedded protective chemicals...I mean hey it’s only low sun northern latitude people buying them, why bother, save a buck!? yours might be awesome but I wouldn’t even think about anything else until I read the date stamp on all 4 of them. *** Look at the date stamp on the side wall. Four digit code - what are the numbers, that’ll tell which week (first 2 digits) and year (last two digits) they were manufactured. Yes, it seems like 4WD would compensate a little better for tires. But, like coding, garbage in garbage out for cars too.

Yeah then it doesn’t matter what you look at. The belt and sprockets can only be exactly right or off by some multiple of teeth - it can’t be off by a little bit. So as long as you’re looking at an engine that’s not beat up in some way, has new covers bolted on right, you’re looking straight on and share, and not hacking it from a weird angle - you can only be exactly right or obviously off.

exterior. aluminum ramp attached to the roof or something hitch oriented.

Did you call Subaru dealer and ask? I know that's unlikely. There's one for sale for $50 a little out of my way I can go pick up. I'm unsure how safe glass is going to be to ship even if it's heavily packaged - but I'm moderately willing to try. Shipping to Germany, for 10 or 20 pound package: First Class (the cheapest option, takes the longest): I couldn't find those rates Priority mail : $80 for 10 pounds, $135 for 20 pounds. $50 glass + $80 for the part = $130 plus any taxes or fees. But that assumes 10 pounds is an accurate guess on weight - I'm not sure what the final package weight will be with glass and materials. Tchuss!

No - just relax and get it properly diagnosed. It's probably one of the oil switches leaking, valve cover, or CV boot, or something else really easy. The mechanic is doing you a disservice by sending you on an anxiety ridden internet search of head gasket woes. Maybe he had a bad day when you stopped by, I'd just carry on and not worry about it. You could look underneath or pop the hood and attach any pictures of fluid you see here and we can help. If it's a CV boot - reboot the axle. The original axles will last the life of the car and are literally stupid to replace or throw away. Many shops will want to replace the axle because it's quicker and simpler for them - the cost is roughly the same. But aftermarket axles are terrible and almost never last the life of the vehicle.