idosubaru

no? i'm not sure this peeing contest is really worth anything or valuable.Subaru FSM suggests that the duty cycle is varied in normal driving mode. not sure why it would suggest that if it's FWD? then line pressure is varied when turning, in 1st gear, and when slippage occurs...etc. sounds variable.

Single port heads does not mean Phase II. Phase II was 1999 for the EJ22. Yes - 1996 and earlier is non interference. So essentially the motor changed every year or so during a short time period....95 dual port heads, 96 single port heads, 97 goes to interference, 99 goes to Phase II. 96 should be the old style (cheaper and more reliable) tensioner. 97 is the quirky year and needs to be visually verified (pull drivers side timing cover). The two tensioner styles are interchangeable if you get the aluminum bracket that holds the one you want to the engine.

variable up to 60/40

depends on terrain and kind of driving. the hills we sled/snow tube on have resulted in hospital visits for broken bones, KO's, separated shoulders. 150 mph without a helmet? 180's at 50 mph? that's an exaggeration but the point remains - where to draw the line? foam/carpet just makes for a smoother ride.

a transmission *can* come out much quicker from underneath. there's just much less to it when you add up all the parts and procedures. but it's also uncomfortable, harder (on your back/underneath instead of over top reaching down while standing), and more difficult by yourself (particularly on the install) without good equipment/help. Lots of items there to annoy you and get in your way. Everything else being equal (skills, experience, tools, etc) a transmission will come out in half the time of an engine. The caveat is it's harder for everything to go smoother from under neath due to mentioned above.

personally i'd kick everyone off and hunt. what we do is get an old car hood. strap huge foam pads too it. when it snows you can fit up to 3 people on it and drag it behind a vehicle in the snow. we wear full on motorcycle helmets though, so i in no way recommend this....proper disclaimers, i'm not responsible, you will get hurt, etc. can be done in the mud too or with huge pieces of carpet, but snow and an old volvo hood do well.

cars101.com for all your subaru specification needs. EJ22 can easily handle boost. no engine is going to handle improperly installed or used forced induction systems. needs to be done right and monitored. know what yo'ure doing and your limits and you'll be fine. there's a member here, though he hasn't posted much in a long time so he'll never see this thread - but he installed a turbo on his EJ22, raced it, got some trophies for something or another, and took it off. car is still running great. but he also did it right - knew his limits and didn't hack it together. folks often are hacking forced induction together or putting it on an already problematic motor.

i sent a request to another company for "high angle" cv boots and never got a response.

I've noticed quite a few difference nuances to bearing failures, i don't think there's one definitive approach to diagnosing.

i doubt it, did you price anything from these jokers?

well it can be done much cheaper, i'd probably fix mine for about $50-$75. you were fine with the struts on there before they said anything, go ahead and install another used set, they don't fail frequently enough to warrant exorbitant prices like that. buy a set of used strut assemblies (complete strut, coils, the entire assembly) for about $35 a piece and install those. you might even be able to post in the parts wanted forum here and have someone with a parts car send you a set. i have one rear, but not two. they're super easy to replace too, hardly anything to it. once the wheel is off it's all of 5 nuts and it all comes out as one assembly. can probably bue both sides in an hour.

hit it every day or other day for a week or two really good with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Yield is even better if you can get it. Then torch the housing around the bolt just before hitting it with air tools if you got them. they are notorious for shearing off, which becomes evident once you see how they're constructed.

if you can have them disconnect the ABS sensor in the "new" hub so you can just plug it in and not have to worry about removing your old one. john is referring to the rear hub, though you never really mention front or rear did you? in any event the rears are much more difficult than the fronts, particularly if they're rusted at all. SOAK that lateral bolt in lots of high quality penetrant (WD40 does not count). fronts are easy - just have a pickle fork for the ball joint and you'll probably have to replace it unless yo'ure lucky - grease the pickle fork realy good if you want to try and save it. removing the ball joint without a pickle fork can be a bear.

yeah it'll be fine. one oil change is not going to kill your car, if it did then everyone that ever switches oil change places (who have their own preferences and rarely match previous brands/weights/etc) would have engine issues. in general the "high mileage" and marketed stuff like that is avoidable. you want oil. those "branded" things like high mileage, older car, special whatever - those have additional (unecessary) additives. pure, clean, regular oil is fine for any car, particularly ones that are running perfectly fine.

if you know the hub is bad, replace that first to make sure the trans is bad? sounds like you're fairly certain though. i've seen tight bearings not be any good. make noise while driving, feel fine when testing by hand.

if you attempted to "force" the converter in by tightening bolts you may have damaged the transmission. otherwise, you just need to get it lined up properly. there are numerous descriptions here of linining it up, might want to search and read through those. basically just keep pulling it out 1/2" and rotating it, press in, repeat until it engages the last little bit. good catch - had you tried to bolt the engine in place you would have ruined hte tranmsission (that's no unheard of).

benign, you're fine indefinitely. it's not going to do any more damage than is already there. whether you fix it now or in 10 years you're going to need the solenoid an clutch work, not a big deal.

Dealer had a hard time locating the part number for the rear differential side seals and I couldn't verify them on line. So, here is what I ended up with, the newest updated number is: 806732200

can you make-shift something else in there for now - an easier to find digidash or one with blown lights, etc for a few months to see how it goes? i've driven subaru's without a working gauge cluster before, the entire assembly removed. so it won't prevent you from driving....it is quite an entertaining experience. though obviously i don't recommend it for safety, speed, oil, temp reason.

First - be careful with hubs, there are FWD hubs and that looks like it is one..or might be. Subaru offered FWD vehicles up to 96 (though rare by then), so parts places could be off by a year or so. Second be careful by "hub" many folks incorrectly (myself included) mean the entire hub assembly - also the knuckle. But in reality the hub is just that part pressed into the knuckle, as shown on the ebay pic. When i ask a yard I ask for the hub and always get the knuckle unless i specifically ask them to remove the hub (only done that once). Otherwise they know what I'm after. If i'm ordering online or a store, then you'll want to make the distinction and use proper terminology. So pardon our incorrect usage on forums like this. Subaru bearings are tough to get right and often have repeat failures unless done exactly right - Subaru even makes a special tool for the process, which doesn't make it a ton easier but helps and can be done on the car. I replace them with used hub assemblies - the entire knuckle. That ebay "hub" is just the hub, still needs pressed out and back in with the bearings into the rear knuckle. Simpler to buy a used entire knuckle. Nice to get one in person so you can tell if it's rusted to crap, the axle seal looks good and what they did with the abs sensor - cut the wire, if they got it out, left the abs sensor wire intact, etc. Make sure you get what you need - if you have ABS you need an ABS knuckle.

use a long enough carriage bolt and grind the tip down just enough to grab the piston pin. i have one that a friend made for me.

right, i've read that before too: !!! 'iim sure adding conditioner is part of the manufacturing process now that they require it. they probably adjusted the gasket and torque sequence, but they still have issues post 2002. i'm not sure of the VIN deal. i saw someone mention before that they were "100 short of the cutoff", not sure if that's just some out $2,000 being emo or real. I've never seen the VIN cut off publicized. Did you try googling it? It'll take some time as I couldn't get it to come up before.

There is also an 8 year limitation to it as well, so you're almost beyond that. Actually you might be beyond that depending how they calculate that 8 years - I believe it's from the date of the original purchase of the vehicle...which can vary by quite a bit...so if it was sold in 2001 (very likely) then you're out of warranty. Right, they add a conditioner, they didn't change anything. Your car has a bottle of goop in it that the earlier ones didn't get...or not until they started having issues at least. Technically speaking you have to verify this Subaru Genuine Coolant Additive goop is added at every Subaru recommended coolant service interval for the cooling system if you want this warranty in effect. Granted they're lenient on that small part, recognize the issue, and will take the warranty work....but, if you're pressing the limits with mileage, production date, and years, you're getting on really thin ice.

Life expectancy varies wildly to say the least, but I'm talking about whether it'll last 10 years or 15...100,000 or 200,000. Yours obviously is having issues way too early. Thing is failure is just typical rubber deterioration, not anything else, so yours almost certainly isn't bad. There's a very specific procedure for installing it. Clean the threads, the mating area on the block (no debris), and then install the sensor at a very specific angle and torque setting. I would pull it out, clean it off, look for cracks at the base, clean the block and threads out - then reinstall it exactly as it's intended. There are very good threads on here about how to install it, including detailed pictures - by porcupine if you want to use the advanced search function.

forgot to mention, on older ones you can pry the plastic apart and clean the contacts inside as well. haven't heard of that on newer ones but can't imagine they're set up that much differently.