idosubaru

go to subarupartsforyou.com or subarugenuineparts.com and start looking up part numbers for EJ22's in 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002...and see what differences there are. i'd check TPS, MAF, Knock sensor, Coil packs....see what years have different part numbers and go from there. Comparing FSM's would be nice too....seeing if different exploded views of the motors look any different. If this is an EJ22 into an EJ25 vehicle there's a good chance you're going to need EJ25 cams on your EJ22 to get it to work. That might be your problem right now if it's not starting.

dude, that sounds horrific. guaranteed PITA with no end in sight...not looking forward to it.... i have an impreza OBS to swap to rear discs this summer so i'll be needing to do this at some point. being the wife's car i'd rather minimize down time....

your pictures take FOREVER to load, why is that? really annoying, can you shrink them and just post them on USMB rather than use photobucket? the bottom solenoid is a switching solenoid, the other is a pressure transducer or sensor. they affect transmission shift points in an automatic and are semi-EGR related as well. other than that i'm not sure.

then we're dealing with all Phase II stuff 1999+ problem with that is i believe there are changes even from 1999 to 2000 to 2002...so it might be tough to narrow this down. i would look at the TPS, knock sensor, and MAF and write down the part numbers off of them. then punch those part numbers in at subarupartsforyou.com or subarugenuineparts.com. look up those part numbers and see if you can cross reference anything that shows you what motor it may be. using that method you should be able to track it down. you might have to call subaru or stop in and actually look since the Hitachi Part Number on the side of the actual part might differ from Subaru's part number....but this method will work if you put some effort into it.

Count how many engine block to transmission bolt holes there are. There will be 4 or 8 bolt holes on the engine bellhousing and transmission. It is possible to mate a 4 bolt engine to 8 bolt transmission..and the other way around. So let us know what BOTH of them are, not just one. Engine - is it 4 or 8? Trans - is it 4 or 8?

Someone emailed me so i figured i'd include this information here. Anytime you do a brake job you should always grease the caliper slide pins...more so with older cars since they have a high chance of not being done before. The part that you unbolt, that swings away is the caliper. It swings, pivots and usually has two anchor points - one that you remove and the other that it swings on. It also has the caliper pistons in it. The two anchor points...the bolt you remove and the pivot point will both have rubber bushings. The actual set up can vary a little...but the idea is always the same - there's a sliding surface in there somewhere. There's a rubber boot to hold the grease in. Most likely there's no grease left anymore. You want to remove those pins and grease them up. Grease the entire shaft and put grease inside those rubber boots. Lots of extra grease will squirt out when you go to reinstall those pins, so have a rag or something handy. Move the pins in and out a few times to spread the grease around and make sure they move well. The two vehicles i just did were both in very bad shape for some reason...i've never had any problem with older EA rear discs so the newer gen must be more prone to this for some reason. I'd be prepared for a bad day. I would have never gotten the pins out without torches and enough clamps/bolts/metal to devise a make-shift on-the-fly press to get the pins out. If you have problems getting the caliper or pins off and can't afford down time with your car then an alternative is to get a set of rear calipers and brackets used. Then you can easily unbolt the entire assembly and swap it out with no issues. Good chance some of the rubber bushings/boots will be damaged or get torn up as well getting the pins out. I had to replace some of mine, luckily i had extra calipers lying around to use boots off of. Good luck!

yep, swap them over. get the parking brake cable with it and go to town. keep any extra bolts and what not you can just in case. guess you don't have the rust issues we have out here so that should make it easier. the swap has been documented and talked about, check out the USRM and try the search joker for a bit i think you'll find some good info.

xt6 forum: http://subaruxt.com/forum/ you really need to find out what year engine that is...i'd start another thread like (help me determine what engine this is). on a side note, ambiguous thread titles like this one don't help people who might want to help decide if they're going to check it out or not. anyway, if you're talking about 99-2002 engines (which is sounds like you are), there are significant changes across those years. later model EJ22's will not run off 2.5 stuff. but without details it's really hard to say. what do you mean "bad couple of motor swaps"? was the wiring changed at all...i mean the car/ECU wiring? is the ECU still the 98 RS?

you can torque the cam sprocket using the 10mm cam sprocket bolts if you'd like. very few dealers have used this tool...i bet most don't even have one, in the past 15 years probably on all their EA82 timing belt jobs...and it's be easier to climb mount everest than find a mechanic that actually uses one every time...well maybe that's easy on a subaru board! i can tell you this - you won't notice a difference either way..using that "tool" or not.

yep - check your rear brake calipers. be sure to complete clean and grease all of the caliper slide pin hardware. my bet is one of those is gummed up. i had what i thought was rear bearing noise. the rear caliper pins had zero grease and very sticky. completed the brake job two days ago and the noise is now gone. i'm glad it wasn't the wheel bearing!

massive overkill. there of tons of people on here like me that have done dozens or hundreds of these without any tools. EA82 belts are way too easy to even bother with it.

the replacement Beck Arnley boots at Advanced auto parts were very nice. It came with a zip tie but i just used the original spring like clamp that was on there. the boot was a very tight fit over the end of the tie rods. without some playing around i don't know that it's possible to install every time without ripping the boot, although they are very tough. i greased the entire tie rod up really well and slid the boot on. then i pre-stretched the tiny hole on the outside end with a screw driver, going around it to help make it supple and slide on easier. even with the grease it was super tight to get on. i had to use a screw driver the entire way to get it past the threads, just working the flat head screw driver around the circumference to help slide it on. lift up on the screwdriver and the boot slides back a tiny amount, then work it all the way around...repeat. i wasn't sure what kind of grease to use inside the boot on the inner tie rod and joint. i ended up just using wheel bearing/CV grease. hope that's okay? wouldn't be terribly hard to just slide the boot back enough to clean out and regrease if that's the wrong kind. and of course with a rusty tie rod nut it got fun. break the nut and tie rod loose with a tie rod in place. i actually got an old tie rod so as not too put that much pressure on my good one that i was going to retain. took heat, PB plaster and massive leverage to break that nut loose.

what engine? is the water pump the correct one? i'd compare it to another, maybe it's wrong or defective? aftermarket or Subaru pump? did you try the OEM Subaru gasket without sealer? water pumps seem to seal rather easily without sealant, if it's not sealing with it i have to imagine something is really out of whack. i'd want to compare it against another pump or just install another...but i hate to tell you that? i can send you a used pump that is known good if you want paul, just shoot me a note. check the surface of the pump/block for flatness at the mating surface. good luck - sounds like a real pain?!

I would find that maf plug - it should have one, find out where it went. Buying one and planning to swap it out is pointless...you'll still have to find out where it goes and what happened to the original harness - so do that first. MAF's are identical across a wide range of Subaru's, so that's good news. Important info: Figure out what engine it is. Figure out what year it is, you/we need to know. Figure out if the intake manifold was swapped or is probably original to the engine. Get the ECU part number and look up what engine it's for. Start there...EJ swaps are relatively simple but there are some changes across different years that complicate matters. That solenoid on the passengers side strut tower should have a vacuum hose running from the empty port on the solenoid to the engine. and it has a filter in line with it too - $7 from Subaru. could you have a vacuum leak somewhere?

good suggestion. i have those in my XT6 as well. i wouldn't call it hard, but i wouldn't call it straight forward and easy for someone who doesn't have a good assortment of tools and experience with ujoints either.

it'd be nice to know why this is always an issue. my impreza and XT6's definitely don't (but i've only owned 20 so maybe i've gotten a bad batch!!). maybe it's a legacy thing?

hot dog!! i'm a fan of AWD and won't go without having AWD soobs. but there are a few reasons, that may not be palatable to everyone but work for others. if it's a good car and well maintained...."the cheapest car is the one you own" kind of deal. there are people that want to buy subaru's but won't because they're AWD and they don't want it. and some that still buy them though they would prefer FWD. so if the AWD goes out...so be it, no point in dropping money on something they didn't want in the first place. i'm not saying that's how i think...just throwing it in the hopper.

they'll be perfectly familiar with universal O2 sensors, all mechanics are. but you'd be doing the right thing by doing what you said and getting the direct fit style. otherwise you're trying to save money but annoying them by requiring them to do more work. not that it's much but...from a shop standpoint they'd much rather just drop one in for you.

i'm not understanding this: "back wheel drivetrain" is an awkward way to put it, but probably just something lost in communication. i'm going to assume you just have a bad u-joint. that's no big deal, you have two options. one costs money, the other is free. keep in mind the driveshaft is a two piece shaft. the front half has to be in place to hold trans fluid in, the rear does not. free - remove the rear half of the drive shaft. remove it and you don't even need to replace it. it's only 8 12mm bolts (4 on each side) and the shaft pulls right out. in my experience it's usually a bad joint in this rear section. some soobs i've worked on have a cover to remove to get to the shaft...very easy, just a couple bolts and it comes off (and i often leave it off!) if both of the ujoints are good in this rear section then you'll need to replace the front section. it slides into the transmission and keeps fluid from coming out, so you'll have to actually replace it if that's the one that's bad. i actually have a 4EAT Legacy driveshaft i'd sell you if you want just PM or email me. no - keep it in FWD and you'll be fine. i've removed the driveshafts without removing the exhaust before. not sure if different models have different configurations but in my experience the exhaust will give enough to pull the shaft out. 1 - i'd remove the rear half of the driveshaft first. car will still be driveable, it's easy to remove and a good chance one of those ujoints is bad. you'll be able to tell once it's off. if that's the case - you're done and you fixed it for free (except your time) 2 - if those joints aren't bad then it's the front half and you can source one or PM/email me.

agreed - this is not likely to be your cat. they rarely fail and failure rates decrease for good running, properly maintained vehicles that only serve as daily drivers (no crazy usage, off roading, etc). if you ever need a cat there are a few cheaper options. going the dealership route is ridiculous on all counts. find someone parting out a car and buy the cat from them. then have a local shop or guy bolt it or weld it in place for you. find a performance shop and have them install an aftermarket converter for you. it'll cost them $30 in materials and take them no time at all. add labor and converter cost (much cheaper than dealer). there's no need for a bolt on part here, but if removal concerns you they can always include flanges for a few extra dollars. i've welded flanges on exhaust before myself and i suck at welding and have an el-cheapo welder. i stopped by a tiny shop in Atlanta GA wanting someone to install one for me...$35 and an hour waiting and it was done. i don't think $35 is normal, but it's not that hard to find someone willing to do the work for a reasonable amount.

3 hours and $204 sounds extremely reasonable for this job. i think you both are getting a fair shake...with you getting the better end of the deal. if you search the forums here you'll find quotes up in the $500-$700 range for a rear wheel bearing, of course that includes the cost of the bearing and seals which you're providing. - i guess you gave him or he has the necessary seals as well?

make sure there's no grit/pebbles stuck in and around the pads and caliper hardware. but it sounds like the pads are noisy. can you tell if it's one or both sides?

if you want to use the EJ18 i think i'd at least look into fitting the 2000 EJ22 intake wiring harness onto the EJ18 block. 93 EJ18 block 95-98 EJ22 intake manifold 2000 EJ22 intake manifold wiring harness you would only need to verify that your 2000 EJ22 cam pulleys will bolt to the EJ18 block. if so, this would be easy. bottom end problems = car aint running anyway right? yank a cam pulley off and find out! if the EJ22 heads bolted up to the EJ18 you could swap the heads onto the EJ18 block. then your 2000 intake manifold bolts right up to the block and you got no wiring/ECU work to do. if you're all up for the wiring work then tear it up, that has to work if it's done right.

i ended up torching the rubber boot...toasted it until what was left was brittle and fell apart. then i proceeded to "press" it out with make shift combinations of things. very annoying. i placed the caliper on wooden blocks and pounded the caliper slide bore with a hammer and it still wouldn't budge a millimeter. i used a combination of washers, sockets, and bolts to "pull" it through. push a bolt through, place a socket on the other side and a washer. the socket rests against the caliper so as not to prevent the pin from coming out as you tighten a nut on the end of the bolt. the bolt head lies against the shaft of the slide bore and pulls it through. tighten the nut/bolt combo and the bolt head begins to "pull" or "press" the slide bore (whatever it's called - the cylinder that the caliper bolt goes through). it pressed it through until flush and maybe into the caliper a bit. then it just got so tight and cramped in there as the bolt headed collided with the rubber boot that passes through there. this is where i needed to torch all of that rubber to get it out of the way. i tried cutting but that was annoying. i torched it and that worked. turns out XT6 caliper boots were a perfect match and i have plenty of those around! i had some off of calipers from old XT6 parts cars and the boots were in excellent condition on those. don't know how that happened, but at least one thing went well! when comparing to my WRX and RS calipers it looked like a different set up, they didn't appear to have this "through boot" that i had to torch and burn up. or maybe i just didn't look at them long enough, either way it's a done deal now.

the wires you got will be Subaru OEM - so they should be fine. did you remove the knock sensor to check it? the cracking is typically on the bottom and can look like corossion/separation of the plastic/metal too. looking at the top while it's bolted to the engine won't show you enough. is the check engine light on now? the car was running fine at one point then right? it's not like it's always had problems since you got it? no - there's no need to "just replace" the knock sensor or MAP. they do not fail very often. knock sensors have known issues, but other than the cracking at the base there's no point in replacing them.