idosubaru

no

few 20 year old vehicles come with receipts, or all 2 decades worth. most low mileage cars 100k 20 year old vehicles leak badly in my experience, so it wouldn't surprise me if someone messed with it before. mileage and receipts do not gaurantee that noone has ever worked on it before. i was in a 108,xxx mile EA82 last week that had leaks. (no receipts by the way). i went in there to replace everything and someone had certainly been in there before. they smeared RTV all over the face of the cam and crank seals??? that was funny.

everything nipper said. trans fluid should be checked immediately. the shift linkages/gear selector switch on the passengers side of the transmission should be checked as well. does the transmission light ever blink at start up? if so, get the codes after checking the fluid first.

this was my fault, i wasn't explaining it right. it is so simple that i was trying to convince you to just go look. had you went to the store and looked at a switch of the type posted above it would have clarified everything just like that picture did.

i'll work on that

these guys have one in North Carolina with 100,000 miles for $550: 1-800-617-5460 but i'm not 100% sure what vehicle you have either.

what is the mileage and what exactly do you mean by "slop"? unless something very, very unusual happened, the mechanic did not touch your diff oil while replacing the cv axle. and it is not likely that all of your fluid came out if the stub axle came out with the cv axle. they will take any and every opportunity they can to alleviate themselves of warranty work. they don't make money by giving away as many parts and as much labor as possible. they're looking at a number of possibilities and telling you the ones that don't require warranty work on their end and neglecting to tell you other possibilities. if the car is still driveable, i'd want to refill the front diff oil and keep an eye on the fluid level. if it's loosing fluid then they're theory is wrong and i'm right that they're trying to avoid warranty work. i believe the diff oil can leak internally into the transmission, maybe someone else can verify this. $4,000 is high, i'd never pay that, particularly to that shop if they're not wiling to see if it's leaking somewhere. yards carry these transmissions used with low miles and a warrany for $500-$1,000 and shops will install them for $500 tops. $1,500 and you should be on your way.

a picture is worth.....a billion words when i don't know the actual terms! you guys are no fun, you spoiled the circus act of my weak electrical vocab.

i see what you're saying. i didn't necessarily understand all of the switch options either. do what i did. go to a store - i went to a radio shack, and ask them what switch will work for what you're trying to do. actually just by looking at the different switches it should be obvious how to do it. it made a whole lot more sense when i went to the store, looked at what they were, read the packaging. you can probably find it on-line. it's definitely very easy, nothing hard or difficult about it.

0.871 fifth gear, that's the same as some of the older EA series vehicles had. sneaky soob guys. i don't need car buying advice. i can buy subaru's much cheaper than civics and honda's don't have an EJ22 in them, which is what i want. if you buy the car, and retrofit an EJ22 in it for me, or pay all the costs, or pay for me to quit my work, quit my business and go to school to learn how to work on honda's then i'll consider a civic. do i need to keep going?

sorry i don't know all the terms for switches. it only needs to be a "on-off" two position switch. at one position...everything is normal, stock so to speak. in the other position mine has two receptacles for two circuits - i use one for the light and one for the duty C. to say it another way it has 4 "prongs" in one position. but they are not "connected" so to speak. 2 for one circuit, 2 for another. hope that helps. radio shack.

the fifth gear ratio will make a big difference too right? maybe all the internals of the FWD MT are similar or identical? i know i've seen a chart before of manual trans gear ratios but i can't find it.

This will be a dedicated road trip vehicle, built for gas mileage. It was going to be an XT, but I changed my mind. Since I have two AWD soobs that I can drive at any time, this one can be a summer only FWD vehicle. I have a 1998 Legacy GT sedan and I'll be installing a FWD transmission in it. Which FWD manual trans would be best for gas mileage in the EJ series vehicles, or does it matter? Is 1995 the latest FWD transmissions subaru offered? What kind of RPM's do these FWD trans pull at say 75 mph? Mine is currently AWD.

you have it exactly right - break that wire and you are "locked". un-break it and youre back to stock configuration with the TCU in control. if you want a light, you'll have to run a power and ground wire to get a light to come on when in the "locked" position. that is what i did. in the "locked" position, the circuit is broken and an indicator light comes on, and for that light you'll need power and ground obviously. but you can do whatever you want...wire a light, alarm, buzzer, radio, horn, siren, timer, computer...whatever you want to come on whenever you want, when it's "locked" or "unlocked", that is all entirely up to you and is not directly related to this mod at all.

i've heard of folks doing this before without damage. would they plan some kind of fail-safe to save the transmission for mistakes like this? an auto tranny stuck in 1st sounds bad for sure. do you mean the shifter is physically stuck? does it move at all?

even if it wasn't a headgasket, all that overheating on a 20 year old headgasket won't do it any favors. i wouldn't pay much for it.

the belts don't usually "slip" on their own, something likely caused it. the tensioners should be checked, the pulley bearings, the springs and make sure everything turns smoothly. line it up and turn it by hand a few times to verify everything is turning smoothly.

i actually plugged the old broken one back in and showed him how to replace it once i mail him a new one. so....i guess it may possibly be working now, i drove the car with the sensor completely removed. maybe it'll actually work with the broken sensor in place? we'll see. if the solenoid/vaccuum line isn't the problem i'll be back! thanks dudes!

yes, all the rear stuff will carry over, basically the entire rear end. the bolt holes may or may not be in place for the rear cross member and center carrier assembly of the driveshaft but they are easily drilled and tapped if necessary. mr. radon documented converting a FWD XT6 into AWD over at xt6.net, might want to check his thread out. if you're not a member, give me a heads up and i'll make sure you join smoothly.

gah! well i broke the solenoid by the thermostat (purge control solenoid i believe) and pulled it out, which required removing two vacuum lines that just sit there sucking wind..and the engine idles but it's rough. could this be the cause? thanks for the offer connie, that's great. he's 3 hours away so if i have to go back down there i'll likely want to take that dash piece with me just in case...i'll keep it in mind if there's no vaccuum issue.

picked up a loyale for a buddy, gave it to him today but have a quirk. no matter what button is pushed, air only comes out the vents. not a huge issue, except that defroster is almost a necessity for safety reasons. anyone help me out on where to look or what part may be to blame for that? "the dash must come out" is not what i'm hoping to hear! 1992 Loyale PT4WD

you'll get lots of oppinions here from people that have never done and will never need this modification. don't do it if you don't need it and don't understand the harm it can caues if you use it improperly. that's the disclaimer. if you want an off-road, snow driving machine - just read my responses over at xt6.net, we have all the info including the exact pin-out you need over there. if you want to read all of the oppinions on the matter, search here, it gets debated and argued all the time. for specifics, return to your post at xt6.net. here's a link to the thread with a picture of the pin-out you need, the one wire you need on an XT6 auto AWD trans: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1562&start=15

no need to worry about it.

i'd suggest starting with $600 as a base for a timing belt change. someone just this week had a timing belt installed for $275, but we'll shoot high for $600. add in the costs of the water pump and tensioner pulleys on top of that, price them online with the crank and cam seals and see what the $600 timing belt plus parts comes out to. compare that to the $1,400. they may not have included all the same parts in the first quote. similar to the old bait and switch marketing tactic.

dealers do "belt only" jobs as well, so make sure you're getting what you want no matter where the service is getting done. do not assume dealers will do the best in your situation with what you want. when i do someone's timing belt i explain to them that on a 60,000 mile belt it may be okay to replace the water pump and pulleys every other change. then i explain that on a 100,000 mile belt you're asking the water pump and pulleys to make it to 200,000 miles if you don't replace them with the belt. that's more risky than i'd want to personally be, particularly on an interference engine, but the ultimate decision is up to them. i can replace just the belt, only the pulleys that are noisey or feel bad, or replace them all.