idosubaru

on your webpage you mention the shaftseal as the typical problem area. they very rarely fail, i've never seen one leak. the problem is the kinked port of the mickeymouse gasket. that kink is the issue on all EA82 (and ER27 and EA82T) oil pumps. if that pump wasn't "ticking", then it was only a matter of time before it would start.

use Subaru timing belts and one of the online discount Subaru parts suppliers. i'd look for a used fender as well. new ones usually need primed, painted and won't have any decals to match (if there are any).

for a lesser price tag i would have been interested since i don't have my tools in WV yet. nice job on the 2.2 swap, i have extra EJ22's as well, so i'm also considering that. glad it worked out for you.

the SVX engine will bolt up to any EJ transmission just fine so it should fit just fine but whether the gears mesh and align right is another question. if you get it, you can probably give it a visual and be good to go. EJ22 starters are a dime a dozen though, so i wouldn't waste the time checking myself.

there are members running lift kits and i don't know what size tires, but they are huge on some of their rigs. upgrading a truck tire from 28 to 30 is no big deal, going from a dinky stock sized subaru wheel to a very large off road truck tire is a much larger jump. but i don't think the original poster is interested in these kinds of mods, he can clarify if i'm wrong.

after 3 used ones i was tired of swapping and wondering when that one would start the vibration dance all over again.

awesome. what else can you do with these other than read codes? does it datalog real-time? is that hard to decipher? does it come with directions, helpful info on using or are the end users expected to be trained/qualified with them?

i had mine rebuilt for $190 for 3 new, replaceable and greasable Rockford ujoints. about $90 for the 3 ujoints (i ordered them and gave them to the shop) and $100 labor to install them. john, i'd bet as good as you are that you could install them. i cut mine out and stopped there. i'd like to try a set myself one day though. of course it'd be cheaper to just install one instead of all three. have no idea on the swap - i searched and found nothing.

"differential" is derived from "difference" seems logical. http://www.howstuffworks.com is sweet, might want to plug around on there about AWD systems and more specifically to this, differentials.

noone can answer your question until you provide more info. are you getting taller tires for snow tires that are a tiny bit bigger or are you offroading with 35" super swampers? big difference and totally different answers. speedometers are easily a few percent off anyway, so a small deviation in tire height might not matter. there are online tire size calcluators, just type in "tire size calculator" on yahoo and click one. compare tire sizes and see how far off your speedo is off. a wild guess, but i don't think he's looking for a %50+ increase with 305 80 16's.

$1,000-$1,500 is the going rate. they quoted me $1,500 for an EJ25 headgasket change about a month ago. i asked if that included anything else...water pump, timing belt, etc. they said "No", that was all additional. i was having some tires installed and figured i'd stop by to chat, i change my own headgaskets anyway but was curious. that being said...being expensive is one thing...now i don't even trust them because they're nice to one guy (you) and try to hose the next guy (me). i don't mind expensive depending what, who and honesty. i have friends that are mechanics and they don't work like that.

ferret is right on. replacing the boots is time consuming and not very cheap anyway and who knows if the joints were compromised by being torn? the joints won't fail but they may be noisey in the near future. if the noise isn't an issue, then just leave the Subaru axles that are in there, they will not fail. they will be more reliable than an axle from the auto parts store. if the noise is or will be an issue then replace with a Subaru OEM new axle, a used Subaru axle or MWE rebuilt. do not grab one from the auto parts store. they can and do blow up. i've seen ones only a couple weeks old blow to pieces...not just leak grease, crack boots and make noise...but blow to pieces while driving. i've also driven 50,000+ miles on broken boot, clicking original Subaru axles, they are very tough and i've never seen or heard of one breaking that wasn't in an off-road rig (lifted, rock climbing, high stress, etc, those guys break axles all the time). there are plenty of people with limited experience that have done okay with auto parts store axles, but read the boards and oppinions of those that have seen alot of samples...the stats aren't good.

grease/oil/lubricate the new seal and install it properly and hopefully that fixes it. of all the seals to leak, what a sucky one to do it for you.

the 2.5 heads are probably salvageable, my friend who's a mechanic has done a couple of these motors with broken timing belts and said bent valve were the only issues, he said they weren't that bad. might be worth having them checked out? the computer will handle the additional boost fine, i don't think you even "need" an extra injector. i know someone who installed a turbo on his non-turbo EJ22 engine in a 1997 OBS. ran great, has over 100,000 miles on it and he's owned it since new. almost positive he didn't install any extra injectors. he has since removed the turbo stuff and is back to running non-turbo.

there are some members of this board that work at subaru dealerships and have posted their contact information. i've used them before, i'd do a search and find their information. there's also online subaru parts suppliers, they've been posted numerous times on here before and have excellent prices. 1stsubaruparts.com might be one, i can't remember off the top of my head. check out the search button, you'll find them. another girls name is Jamie, she's a part department employee i believe on here.

Bruce, i doubt i have the time to do it, but have an engine lift you can borrow. is this an automatic or manual? i would not go to that Subaru shop on the mileground myself. i stopped in and talked to them a bit and they were nice but their prices were higher than other dealers i've talked to in terms of headgasket work and such. being that the nearest subaru dealer is hours and hours away they have an artificial monopoly. maybe they give some people better deals than a nobody off the street (i was just pricing for kicks, i do my own work). someone i know told me of a "great" subaru shop in morgantown area but i do not know the name, i can ask them if you're interested. i've also noticed a shop out Route 7 west of morgantown that has Subaru's all over the place and appears to be a garage too. i'll stop by someday and find out. you can contact me in PM or email because i'll probably forget about this thread if you want the info on those places. i'll be driving by the place on route 7 a bunch of times this week, i'll stop by and see what they do.

definitely make sure it's not something else. cooling system issues are frequent at this age...water pumps, hoses, radiators, clamps, thermostats, there are plenty of other things to cause overheating. if it is headgaskets, locate, borrow or rent some air tools and go to town. the EA82 headgaskets are super easy to do. they can easily be done in a day no time. i like to have a fresh set of heads ready to go to reduce down time, but it's certainly not necessary. air tools help tremendously when removing all the cam carrier bolts and head bolts. there are a bunch of them. and when cleaning the head bolts holes i like to run the bolts holes down about three times in a row and clean the threads. three times in and out of dozens of holes adds up to alot...but is quick and easy with air tools. i do the 6 cylinder XT6 head gaskets and they're not bad at all....EA82's are super easy. it's money that it's a non turbo, the turbo's kind of suck. while you're in there get a valve job done, new cam carrier o-rings (you'll need two) and valve covers. timing belts, water pump, cam seals, crank seal, oil pump are nice too but not that hard to do anyway so they can wait if they're in good condition. i'd probably definitely replace the water pump if it's never been replaced. thermostat too.

since the engine is out, replace the rear main seal and all the clutch stuff. pilot bearing and throw out bearing. they are not accessible once it's back out. might want to tackle the oil pan gasket since it's a pain to do in the car (unbolt engine, lift it up...blah blah blah). but half the time getting a new gasket to seal is a PITA. everything else is accessible with the engine in the car, so feel free to leave it as is. i'd either go balls out and reseal the entire thing or only do things you have to at this point. i wouldn't try to find some "middle ground", it's too ambiguous really. but tackle the stuff that's easy with the motor out. since the valve covers are accessible with the engine in the car you can try a bead of silicone if you want and fix it again later if it doesn't work. i'd be mostly worried about any of the silicone squising inside the valve cover/cam area and getting washed down into the oil pan. yeah there's a sump screen and oil filter and it'll probably come out at the first oil change...but i don't like the thought of junk getting in my oil. i'd probably reinstall the old gaskets as is, no sealant. if they don't hold or start dripping then i'd worry about silicone or getting new ones. i ordered XT6 valve cover gaskets from the online cheapy guys for $6.99 each. i bought like 5 sets since they were so cheap

if they aren't Subaru axles i wouldn't trust them. i've seen aftermarkets blow to pieces with very little stress. but like i've said...i've put 50,000+ miles on clicking CV's on original Subaru axles. if they start clicking while driving straight that's when i start planning on replacing them...usually with a brake job or something else requiring similar work. the two birds with one stone thing. but if they aren't Subaru or MWE i'd be looking to get them out quick. when you replace them, get used Subaru axles or rebuilds from MWE..or new from subaru if you like giving away your wallet. aftermarkets suck, seen them explode.

i'd diagnose that compression loss before spending much time on it. if it's heads/head gasket related then no big deal. if it's rings....i don't know that it's worth worrying so much about it's going to need major work anyway.

how bad are these axles, are the Subaru (the originals) and do you drive off road? i've put 50,000+ miles on broken boot, clicking axles. the Subaru axles are solid and i've never had one fail. i've rarely seen them fail on the groups either, and those times are usually from guys with lifter/offroaded vehicles. i never replace mine until 'im pulling the axle out for something else. i have two broken in the rear and one up front now....so what, i know they won't fail and i'm definitely not messing with them any time soon. i'll get to it in a year or so. i'd leave them there. if they are clicking really bad you can hand pack some grease in there to quiet them down.

if you'd like another 100k i'd make sure the cooling system is golden. radiator, water pump, hoses, clamps, thermostat, radiator caps, coolant overflow hose, heater core hoses. one leak in the cooling system will entice those 20 year old headgaskets to finally give out. old gaskets and seals tolerate heat far less than new ones. then you have a much bigger problem. good luck on the party.

you could tow 2 cars, probably 3 if you wanted, the subaru would do it just fine...for a few miles....how long before you have an accident or the car gives out on you is the question. it shouldn't be done. before i had ever really towed anything, i asked the same thing about towing a Subaru with my XT6. the answers were about the same that you see here. i now own a truck and dolly, am getting a car carrier soon and since putting a couple thousand miles of towing under my belt i am very glad i listened to the members of this board and the xt6 group. with the situations i've encountered and people i've talked to that tow alot, i am thankful i listened. although....i know my XT6 "could" do it, but you're hoping everything goes perfect if you try! i'd be very concerned about the mounting of the receiver to do this anyway...better be done really well and better not be any rust.

i think you're out of range with the '05, so you should be okay. for only $1,000 you made out good if he really did replace the head gaskets. that is awesome if he did it right. for that price, you're best just to get it done. most mechanics would never give you that kind of deal for doing the entire front end work (t belt, water pump, seals) and the gaskets/covers, etc. that's normally a $1,500 - $2,000 job for all of that. my cousin got quoted $699 just for the timing belt/water pump stuff you just mentioned (same 2.5 motor). i did it for cost of parts (WAY less!)

i don't get it??