idosubaru

i like to do something like this to a spare hub. i would pick up a used hub (or to be totally honest, have my own parts cars), swap hubs and be done with it. then you have your old hub to work on as you have time and there's no pressure to get it done. $35 front loyale hubs in Oregon: Mt.Hood 541-352-7118 Hermiston 1-800-854-1455 La-Grande 1-800-233-9640 Goshen 1-800-437-1708

how do you know it's due to K&N? i believe they let in more particles and and not trying to argue, just curious and skeptical that they make any difference in engine life or performance. skeptical in the curious sense, not argumentative! if 3% more particles (or whatever tiny amount it is) kills a motor.....isn't that odd? it seems the "stock" air filter would equally kill a motor....but would take a bit more miles to do it. all air filters let stuff in. that an engine runs forever with X amount of particles coming through (the stock ones) and fails immediately due to X+%3 more coming through seems odd. i'm an engineer so i'm real limited in my creative thinking skills....tolerate me a litlte bit! those who install K&N's are more likely to be concerned with performance and harsher driving habits (speed, harder shifting, performance, racing, towing, heavy duty) than those that don't. those cars with coffee can exhausts and kids constantly holding 4,000 rpm's likely have more engine issues than your average daily driver. but the exhaust doesn't cause the engine problems...it's sort of anecdotal but i'd be more inclined to blame the operator. again...just curious how you're diagnosing all these engines with massive failure related directly to a filter that only lets in a small percentage more stuff than a regular filter.

if i got this right, ideally i'd need trans mount and engine crossmember spacers to reduce the cv axle some. that's all the extra pieces i don't understand when i see pictures of lift kits. makes sense now.

oh right, this is not EA81 or EA82. it's an XT6 (ER27). i don't want tons of lift, probably just something you offroaders would laugh at. if i could easily get an inch or two without seriously straining the reliability of the vehicle i'd go for it. the picture shows strut extensions, that's it. the 3 cylinders are just spacers/extenders for the top three mounting studs on the front struts. they go between the strut and the body mounting points. the other two are the rear strut tops, those extended pieces of metal are just metal welded to the strut top as spacers between the strut and body.

http://usera.imagecave.com/benfroebel/lift.jpg what are the issues with doing it this way for a minor lift? is 1" or 2" fairly useable without much chance of cv failure? tires will wear unevenly?

bob-is-the-oil guy site has some great test results and information. anyone interested should check that stuff out and make their own decision. if you're cautious and anal, don't use K&N. if you don't really care, can swap motors or rebuild when you want, then use them if you'd like. in my experience, my subaru's handle them. it was mentioned some diesels blowing up. sounds like something is wrong with that engine/intake or the people using them. all air filters let in particulate matter, to say that the 1% more stuff let in by one complete destroys a motor says something isn't right, but i'm doubtful it's the filter. i don't know how one filter that lets in stuff destroys and another motor that also lets in stuff (though %1 less) does not. that's odd. there are plenty of high mileage engine stories with aftermarket (K&N) filters. i am one of them. i totally agree they're likely letting in more dirt. my oppinion is that the percentages are so small it doesn't matter. if my motor blows up, then so what. i'll install another one. any filter lets a certain amount of particulate matter in. if one lets in a tiny percent more...then in the same way that it's a very small performance increase it's probably a very small affect on the engine as well. with the combustion process and pushing stuff out the exhaust the tiny bit more let in really isn't going to matter. i've seen loose air housings, filters that don't seal well, and an idiot friend in highschool running his laser without an air filter 'cause it sounded cool...etc, letting in unfiltered air. not good, but haven't seen a blown motor because of it yet either. premium gas can give some of the largest performance gains possible on some non-turbo engines. kevin documented this on the DYNO with his XT6. see results on xt6.net. advance the ignition timing and run premium. +7hp i believe. that's dyno results, not bogus advertising math. and of course each vehicle/engine/computer is different. all fuels have a certain level of cleaners in them (regulated by law i believe). often the advertising trick is (or used to be) they say "our premium fuels have blah blah blah detergents". they don't tell you that all the grades have the same cleaners in them so you think only the premium does. they aren't lying, but they aren't telling the entire story either. welcome to marketing.

anyone notice this dude hasn't checked back in yet? did you check how much oil your owners manual says to add? compare that to what you did and take note next time to add the correct amount. the drain valves are super nice, great idea and i've seen them leak...just drip leaks but that's more than i care to have. take your pick and check your oil often. i'll stick with a drain plug, KISS. add the right amount and draining isn't necessary.

tell him to be careful and use good wire and connections. i did the same. then smoke started billowing inside while i was driving down the road....then really thick smoke...then red embers were seen. luckily no damage, no harm except breathing in bad bad carpet smoke for a few seconds.

i would have bought one earlier this year for $125. i paid around $100 shipped for mine, i can't remember. you'll get alot more "wants" and thumbs up before hand than paid for units afterwards. shipping will be annoying too, but hey you'd be helping the subaru community a ton! i know i had a hard time locating one when i was looking, i'm sure there's a handful here that may jump on it.

i looked in the salvage yards as well. they do have a decent interchange ability, but they certainly don't cover everything that's interchangeable. on some transmissions a few places list the final drive ratios (typically older subaru's), but i've never seen them list the final drives of newer EJ tranny's when i've looked. this leads me to believe they are as clueless as we are and therefore the absense of the interchange doesn't necessarily tell us that they don't. i still don't think the impreza/legacy will interchange just based on the little that i do know..impreza and legacy usually have differeing final drives if everything else is equal (or not). another test.....i'd count the revolutions myself and be done with it. but if the RPM's and speed don't match that would be a hard clue that they are different. in other words if one is turning a different RPM at 70mph, that would indicate the final drive or interal gearing is different.

someone used urethane...like the kind used for windshield installation i think...to repair motor mounts. says it works great. have no idea how to do it, but i just read it today or yesterday on here or xt6.net.

i tried looking up and didn't find much. i agree they are probably different and likewise i have nothing to back that up except to say every time i compare impreza and legacy trans they are different final drives. with information on this being so scarce and variable i'd personally want to count to verify no matter what. if you jack the rear of the vehicle up, simply turning the tire and counting the driveshaft will give you the gear ratio. compare the legacy and impreza. of course you can always swap the rear diff as i'm sure you are aware.

good point. thicker oil 20w50 will leak far less than thinner stuff sometimes as well too. if the engine is running well this might be an excellent choice for another 100,000 miles. or at least worth tolerating until warmer weather comes!

you want a clutch kit or just the clutch disc? http://www.thepartsbin.com: clutch disc is $38.62 clutch kit for $101 (free shipping on orders over $50). their trans mounts are $60 though! i highly recommend the entire kit - pilot bearing, throw out bearing, disc, pressure plate....etc.

he still hasn't mentioned if this is really "overfill" or just an empty, new oil filter.

time to ask yourself what you want for this car. the block should go another 100,000 miles at least so you really only need a head gasket job, not a full rebuild. i wouldn't consider a full rebuild unless you plan on having this car for another 300,000 miles and feel like replacing everything else as well. a full on rebuild is kind of silly if the car has 225,000 on the wheel bearings, driveshaft, starter, alternator, radiator, hoses, calipers...etc. a 100% reliable engine does you no good if everything else is 15+ years old with 225,000 miles.

someone inform us what the fix was. i swapped a non-turbo EA82 into my 87.5 XT Turbo and the fuel pump wouldn't run as well. tell phil to please inform! i'll be attacking this car again shortly and would like to know what they ended up doing.

+1 for carbs suck. can i put my FI EA82 in my lawn mower?

those fans need to be turning on. if the temp is going up...if the gauge is to be believed (which it probably is)...then the fan should be coming on. not sure where your sensor is for the fans though. i think that's the one in the radiator though right? test that one.

highly doubt the rear diff like nipper said. i'd have the tires inspected/rebalanced. tires can be noisey. rotate them and see if the noise changes or "moves". if it moves with the tires, then they are the cause. make sure there's no mud caked behind the wheels, or a part of the wheel liner hanging down from the wheel well. after this i'd check your brakes pads or shoes (if it has rear drums). easy check and inexpensive to deal with (depending how bad your mechanic needs $$ anyway). does it seem drivetrain related or could it be trim/antenna catching the wind?

i would change the ignition stuff first. plugs, wires, cap, rotor. then pour a bottle of that "you will pass emissions" stuff in your tank.

it's not out of gas is it? how do you know the filter was clogged if the fuel pump doesn't work? just inside the passengers side rear wheel underneath the vehicle sets your fuel pump. give it 12 volts to see if it runs. more details are good. the car was running yesterday just fine? then quit today? or it hasn't run in 3 years? i know a 1991 loyale is EA82, is it FI? i don't think they're carbbed, but gives us as much information as you can. "car no fuel" is hard for even the most trained mechanic to diagnose!

no kidding, autozone doesn't carry NGK? how weird, i never go there. most parts stores have them, that should be closer to accurate.

12 point socket for the "star thingies" and i think you're set assuming you have all the normal mechanics tools. air tools are super nice to have when doing head gaskets. helps in removing bolts, cleaning threads, cleaning bolts. you'll need a valve spring compressor unless a shop is doing them or you feel like getting creative with what you have.

you said "crank but does not turn over". that's a little confusing. by not turning over, that usually means it doesn't turn over..it doesn't crank, it doesn't try to start. if it's not turning over that sounds battery or connection related. check your battery cables, where they bolt to the battery and make sure you can't turn the battery leads by hand. might be time for some new end links. sounds like you might mean it is turning over, trying to crank but it won't start. will it start if you give it some gas? since i hate carbs and know little about them (what came first, the chicken or the egg?)...i'll leave this up to the others. but sounds to me like a good thorough cleaning of the carb may help. have you ever cleaned it?