idosubaru

grr...can't do that weekend. any weekend in august is bad at this point.

crack, that's crazy. yeah i'd beef that thing up. i'm surprised the hatch is open (won't it hit someone in the head if the shocks fail or hit a bad bump?) and why don't they have a wheel or something under that seat? i'd probably have a shop that speciliazes in trailers make you a heavy duty high class hitch if you can't find a bolt on.

what happened to the old engine? how are the fusible links (by the battery)? pull them out, make sure the ends are all clean and none are broken. reinstall. make sure the engine connectors are fully seated. it is very easy to plug them in but not have them fully seated where all pins are engaged. double check. is the CEL giving any codes in the trunk (LED on the ECu will flash the code for you). check the distributor plug connection. check the engine grounds. forget where they are on the EA82T exactly. front drivers side of engine on XT6, but EA82T could very well be different. the FET is a small dime sized device under the coil. it needs to be grounded and in good condition for the car to start. it's attached to the coil bracket and has one wiring harness connection. make sure the distributor and rotor are good. pull it off and look. i've had brand new ones self destruct internally (and still spark...but at the wrong time). you get no spark at the coil or plugs? you didn't do any swapping of engine harness, distributor, body harness or ECU right? all that is identical? same year and model EA82T? all EA82T distributors do not interchange. check this list and let us know what you find....sounds like alot but shouldn't take long at all.

1 inch is way too much if what yo'ure talking about and what i'm thinking about are the same thing. sounds like you need another driveshaft. VERY odd for them to fail that early.

if the engine is already out then i wouldn't worry too much about ATF coming out. it's in there, but keep it facing "up" and it won't drain. it only drains out the shaft, not the front. so keep the motor side facing down and the trans side facing up. shouldn't be on there that bad, i doubt yo'ull have much problem freeing once you have at it.

i doubt you'll get a solid answer on this. exact transmission interchangeability questions are usually not answered very precisely. find out what final drive ratio you have. (probably 4.11 or 4.44...but maybe 3.9). any transmission from a 2.5 liter subaru will bolt up just fine, make sure the final drive is the same. (although even if it's different you could swap the rear differential as well). i can't recall when major changes were to the 2.5. try nasioc as well they would likely know the major changes the 2.5 went through (if any). as far as i know any transmission from a 1996 - 2001 2.5 liter will bolt up just fine...just make sure the final drive ratio is the same as yours or you swap rear differentials (very easy..it's like 3 bolts) as well.

what a job this turned out to be. 2 hour timing belt/water pump/oil pump/seal job turned into a marathon. titanium and cobalt bits did nothing, noone had diamond tipped bits but i can't imagine they'd last long enough to do anything. this bolt was HARD. i suspect the last time a water pump was done the person replaced the bolt with something else...stainless steel bolt or something because it was hard as crap to drill out. and i bet that's part of the reason it was seized in place as well, material. and i bet that's why my wire feed welder couldn't weld it very well....maybe the material would have been better with higher end welding. the steel tube cutter was awesome but wouldn't work because by the time i made it the bolt was already flush to the motor. so it was hard to get started perfectly, when i started cutting with it i ran into part of the remaining bolt somewhere and by then the groove was made and i couldn't get it to track without hitting the bolt. i should have used this method first when part of the bolt was still remaining. once it hit the bolt the steel would widdle away immediately, but cut the aluminum great. i continued drilling and took out a large swath on the "outside" of the bolt. then knocked it until it fell out of that area i drilled out. i had a bad block in my garage so i made sure to drill an enormous hole on top of that hole and check for any coolant passages. luckily there's nothing even close. in the end it left enough threads to put a bolt in but reduced some of the sealing area for the gasket. but all the gasket mating surface bewteen the bolt and coolant is fine, only the very outer edge of the bolt was drilled away. been driving it and so far it's fine. thanks for the help guys!

$215 is a great deal. they'll likely try say...well you need this and that once you're in there. water pump is a good idea but 96 is non-interference so it's *less* risky. but overheating a motor will toast it just as quick as an interference engine on broken belts. water pump, oil pump and cam seals are best done concurrently.

get a new car. yes they can repair it. yes they can repair it to dead on. but with that much damage it is very likely the metal has been compromised throughout and stressed. with a car that nice and safe i would not compromise. particularly considering the situation. if you were rear ended and it's someone else's fault you can ALWAYS get your way if you play your cards right. your best bet is to get an attorney NOW and let them settle this for you. i know people that have had 20 year old volkswagens completely rebuild and salvaged....thousands of dollars of damage on cars that were worth hundreds at the most. if the accident isn't your fault you can always get your car back however you want it. have it fixed, get a new one...it's up to you...if you persue the right course of action. this is a legal matter at this point and as much as i hate lawsuits and commonality of them, this is a matter best in the hands of an attorney.

if it's been loosing coolant for awhile and it's getting in the oil, then putting alot of time in it might not be a good idea. rod and main bearings don't last too long with too much coolant in the oil. normally the block may be fine, but with much coolant or water running with the oil it's questionable. depends how long and how much and where it's been loosing coolant.

others here will know better but i wouldn't expect any damage from that. those cams are quite snappy though. with a leakage test i think air would blow past a bent valve way faster than it'll leak through the rings. i think that would be obvious.

what do they do at the factory? did they break-in every production car off the line?

good job. complete new rings, bearings and everything? nice, interested to see those pictures. runs rough, any noise? HLA's tapping? timing belts off one tooth. distributor not set properly in housing...a tooth off (probably wouldn't start or would run really bad). ignition timing needs set?

also the oil pump has what you might call guides, kind of low profile ridges on the outer and inner diameters that ride along both sides of the timing belt. just small ridges sort of. these can separate from the pump, probably would have to be previously damaged to do so.

i doubt it's the main bearing. if it is you'll have to remove the engine and completely disassemble. there's no easy way to drop the pan and start replacing individual bearings. the entire motor has to come out and be disassembled. what kind of noise? is it not the oil pump or timing belt? any metal pieces in the oil pan? timing belt idlers or the oil pump could make excessive noise at the front of the engine depending on what happened to it. that the timing belt broke and this thing started making the noise with the new belt seems to indicate to me that something is wrong with a timing belt related item...pulley bearings, bolts, pulleys or the oil pump/oil pump sprockets.

you got until 08 to save!

i'll be doing this tomorrow, i'll let you know how it turns out. i'm wondering if the bolt was stainless steel or something else that didn't take to my wire feed welder? the weld broke loose very easily. no matter now, i really don't have enough material to work with anymore. i'll try extracting the remainder of the drill bit first so i can continue drilling. after that not sure....looks like i have a few options. that steel tubing bit for cutting out the bolt sounds crazy...i like it!

EA82's are easy as pie to do headgaskets on. get those o-rings he mentioned above. they are Subaru only or http://www.thepartsbin.com. autoparts stores won't carry it. might want to look into what headgasket you want to use and whether or not your are going to retorque the gasket. Subaru says to retorque the OEM gasket. some guys do it the way Subaru says, some torque it tigther the first time and don't bother going back in for the retorque. this will be an important decision to make. if you do plan on retorquing the gaskets, install the cam carrier without any sealant around it and don't install the timing belt covers, since you'll be pulling it all right back off after the first start in order to retorque. this will greatly speed up the process. if you do it in the car, have some thick grease handy to hold the rocker arms in place as you install the cams. very easy to do...particularly on the EA82, the 6 cylinder ER27 is much tighter but not bad either. replacing the timing pulleys or bearings is a great idea as well. unless they feel really good, but most are quite noisey and void of grease after nearly 20 years.

i've seen about that much material on the magnets before as well. no problems came about on those vehicles, i bet you're fine. distribute all that fine grit across the many gears, plates and goodies inside the transmission and i bet it doesn't add up to much...like 0.01 mm of surface wear throughout the trans. best to have that crush washer in place, but probably won't leak without it.

you can use any of the online tire size calculators to compare these tires to the ones you're speaking of.

BIT, righto! ....that's what i meant, a larger bit. typo. thanks.

when it starts to run hot are the fans turning on? if none of the fans are turning on that is your problem and a common cause of overheat at idle or in slow traffic. partially clogged radiator and thermostat are other possibilities.

dude...don't even bring up welding. that's how i ALWAYS do it. works every single time...now i can't say that any more. i tried 6 or 7 times and the weld would not hold. couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work this time. it's like the bolt didn't want to take a weld? tried a few different strokes and grounding the nut and bolt, nothing would work. not enough left to weld on now. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

i've used about %50 ATF with no ill effect. i don't usually have to do that, haven't for awhile and really never do unless i acquire something already poorly maintained with valve train noise that won't die. try 1 quart ATF, then 2, then 3....then decide if it's really worth trying to go any further. i woudln't unless there was a real reason...like a noisey HLA that won't shut up. couple quarts of ATF might be better than pulling cams and HLA's.

i'll try extracting it for awhile, but $35 times a couple is fine by me, if i can find them. i'll look around for sure. i plan on having this car awhile so a few dollars is no big deal. i'd rather drill through it than peck around and try things i don't know will work or not. agreed on ez outs, they suck hardcore. up there with snake oil in my oppinion.