idosubaru

they accomplish the same thing, power transfer, but in much different ways.

anyone know if these will fit the XT6? i know they are different looking and designed differently so probably not a good idea to swap. i'd be interested in a set for that motor though...

oh crack!! can you post a picture of it? you can get by with only one mounting bracket, you don't need both bolts in there. but i bet it's fixable if you can post a pic to help see where and how much metal you got to work with. for now one bolt should work fine, as it will work on one that isn't broken.

i'd replace the cap too, it's cheap enough to "give it a try". hope that does it.

this block is desired for high output builds, but requires alot of work? seems like even getting to 200 would be tough without touching the long block. it's also rated at 160 hp at 2800 rpm's. why so low? the NA version of the EJ22 rates peak hp at like 5600. i'm showing my lack of turbo knowledge.

in stock form the EJ22T is only 160 hp. without digging into the long block (pistons, heads, valves, cams) how much hp are they capable of on the stock ECU?

ER27, come on hot dog! you've already done the EA thing...mix it up!

shops will typically make pulleys for you at a reasonable cost. $100-$200 each. look around for local machine shops and give them a call. tell them you want an aluminum pulley made.

good point....someone with a bad distributor might give you there's. i have 3 bad ones somewhere but they are for an XT6. post in the parts wanted forum.

sounds like it's definitely low on refrigerant. problem is that i think your car is probably R-12. it'll likely end up being very expensive. remove the caps and see if you can see any bubbling or oil under the refrigerant caps, there are two on the a/c lines. just little plastic screw on caps. see if it looks wet under there. i've never heard of an a/c shop replacing them because in my oppinion they'll just replace a $500 compressor when really it only needed 50 cent schrader valves. if you get a confirmed diagnosis that's through the roof and you're close to DC (don't know where fairfax is), i might be able to have a look at it for you. i work in greenbelt, MD, just northeast of DC by 15 minutes.

i would not use any locktite or hardening agent on the head bolts, i don't think that's a good idea and would be a PITA down the road. if you follow the proper procedures for head gasket installation you should not have any problems. i'd use Subaru OEM headgaskets or something you have reason to believe is a high quality substitute. from there keep it simple and you'll be golden. follow the proper procedure. clean the crap out of the bolts holes. run a tap or clean head bolt down and out each and every hole in the block numerous times...this is where air tools help speed things up considerably but be careful it is an aluminum block. run the bolts/tap in and clean the threads when you pull it back out. do this until the bolt holes are spotless. blow compressed air down the holes too. when you install the gasket lightly coat the head bolt holes with oil to help them glide through the threads in the block as you torque them. if you follow this you won't have issues. dirty holes that don't torque properly and improper torquing will kill anything you throw at it. after that follow the torque procedure...except possibly making the final torque value higher than specification. look that up, plenty of information on the boards here about people doing that. good luck with it, the EA82 isn't bad at all to do a head gasket on. i've always done ER27's so the EA82 seems really easy.

never heard of that one, can you post a picture of it? stop by a couple muffler shops, i bet they'd weld back together for a few dollars. i wouldn't try any epoxy or JB weld type stuff. won't hold up to all the vibrations and loads on it. you should be able to drill and tap it together with some angle iron or pieces of metal to get it to work but i wouldn't do it that way. should be able to score a used distributor for $25-$40. that's probably the way to go. post on this site in the "parts wanted forum" someone might let one go for cheap actually. EA82's aren't that rare on this board!

important question - is the compressor coming on when you turn the a/c on? is the clutch engaging? it's very easy to tell with the hood open. if it's low on coolant, remove both caps on the a/c system and look carefully down into them. common leakage occurs at the valve stem inside of them. it can be very hard to tell if it's leaking by just a visual check but sometimes you can see some wetness or bubbling at the base of the valve stem and this would indicate a leak. this is the most common cause of leaks with the exception of accidents (which break something) that i've seen. and new valve stems cost about 50 cents. i just replaced mine this summer. be careful on the "x amount to recharge" quotes. in typical cheeseball fashion they will give you a relatively cheap quote on charging it. then once they look at it or pull a vaccuum they'll say it's got a leak and they can't charge it until it's fixed or it'll leak out anyway and it's against the law and blah blah blah.....you get the point. then they'll follow that up with you needing some major component and a $1,000 bill. if it's low on refrigerant i doubt you're probably loosing refrigerant from some where and they're unlikely to recharge it blindly like that. if it's a R134 system, buy a $10 can and do it yourself. it's very easy.

good point, when you reassemble them smear the threads with antiseize lubricant and don't tigthen them much at all. often requires vice grips to unthread the screw from the insert once you have it apart. otherwise you'll gouge it all up.

sweet use of heat! i like it!

spray them down good with PB blaster or something else. then try to punch them out from behind. use a long punch or something similar...some screwdrivers will work. gently tap them out with a hammer. they will push out, still threaded onto the screw. gently prying between the covers around both sides of the bolt will also extract it but at the risk of damaging the covers. some that you can't get to from behind will have to be addressed this way. or break them off and run without covers. not trying to start that debate all over again, just letting you know that's an option in case you didn't.

slap a new belt on and see what happens. i'm with nipper, the car will likely fire up just fine. while the belt is off, take a good look and spin each pulley/idler for the timing belt and see if any are seized or noisey. any that don't feel tight and smooth you should be thinking about replacing in the near future. you can do a leak down test without the timing belt in place.

i think $250 is high. should be able to find someone closer to the $150 range to install a complete axle, even in "city" areas which are typically on the higher end i'd think. i'll go ahead and be the weirdo of the group, a clicking front CV joint with torn boots will last 50,000 miles. i've driven them that long and they've never failed. so i wouldn't worry about it too much if that's more money than you want to spend or you'd like to do this yourself in the future. if they start clicking while you're going straight, that's when i start thinking they definitely need to be replaced. all this to say....your axle isn't likely to fall apart anytime soon, so don't feel pressured into getting it done right away. if you did attempt this yourself a jack is not enough, you'd need jackstands or blocks to hold the car. don't crawl under it with just a jack holding it.

while you were doing the work did the rotors get any bit of rust on them? if it goes away when you apply the brakes it sounds like pad/rotor issues.

doesn't sound good. on older subaru's there's a POWER light that will blink 16 times when you first start the car if the TCU sees any transmission problems, does yours do that? i'd unplug the shift resistor and see what happens. it's usually mounted on the passengers side strut tower on olther subaru's, not sure about yours. it kind of "smooths" out the shifts and drags them out a second or two. i always unplug mine to get firmer shifts. you could try the same just to see if it mitigates the problem at all. i don't think it will, but it's one plug and easy to do.

did you install new crankshaft sprockets and peg them in place? i'd install new sprockets and make sure they are pegged to the crank. a seized cam would seem to just cause the timing belts to skip a tooth, but might want to make sure they both turn over fine and aren't stressing the belt/crank too much. seems like the sprockets don't want to turn with the crank.

hard stuff would be wiring harness and ECU. if that's already pulled and ready for you, that's alot of work already done for you.

best bet is to find a complete parts car and swap out. florida may be a tough place to find subaru's though. if so you'll have to put forth cash or some legwork to find all you need. around here it would be nothing to find a complete FWD subaru with parts needed somewhere between free and $150.

lube the emergency brake mechanism with fresh grease. spraying it may have temporarily loosened it up but probably washed away whatever old nasty grease was in there to begin with. i'd regrease the e-brake mechanism. if that doesn't work, replace with a used caliper or rebuild your old one. XT6 has front emergency brakes and the only tool i've needed is the standard caliper "block" that attaches to a socket they sell for $3 at the auto parts store. is this tool set you speak of the one that compresses and turns the piston into the bore? if so, they are junk. i and others at http://www.xt6.net have used them and broken them right out of the box. i guess they only work if the caliper piston turns very easily which i have never been so lucky to have happen!

you could have a digital camera in your car ready in case you see one around. check autotrader.com for local used car dealer listings of any late 80's subaru. if it's not an XT6 (6 cylinder) it will be an EA82. snap lots of pics of wiring, hoses, fuel, vacuum lines.