idosubaru

i think i've noticed one weight on driveshafts before but i've never payed close attention. if driveshaft balancing prices are high might be better off just sourcing a used driveshaft they can usually be found very cheap. post in the parts wanted forum here.

walmart has an adapter that will plug into the stock wiring harness. it's the right plug but the wires will be noted wrong in the instructions. best to hard wire your speakers yourself and use the plug for power, ground, etc. we have the part number and wiring codes for XT6 and possibly XT models at http://www.xt6.net people have posted various ways of fitting stereos to the slanted XT and XT6 platform there as well.

separator plate and rear main seal like already mentioned. i'd install new hoses and clamps for the ATF lines. i'd get an aftermarket transmission cooler as well and completely bypass the stock radiator side-tank deal if you want this car for another 100,000 miles. some trans rebuilders install one by default because it's "that good" of an idea to do it. they run $30 plus whatever they'd charge to install.

2.5 is an interference engine. timing belts aren't that hard, i'd assume nothing and test the motor. you can pressurize the cylinders (just blow air in them) with an air compressor and see if air is gushing out the intake or exhaust. if it is you bent some valves. a friend of mine did a 2.5 that broke a timing belt last year, had to replace one bent valve and that was it. not a big deal. or install a new belt and do a compression test. very easy to do. compression testers are $20 or so. or just install the old belt, compression test and if all is good then get new timing belt, etc. subaru dealer i talked to said he's definitely seen 2.5's come in with broken timing belts which did not experience any damage. he said most do not. maybe he was lying, but i don't know why he would. that's at the dealer i trust "the most" around here, and i dont' really trust any.

i have never heard of this happening even on the 20+ year old older generation subaru's. from all the diffs i've played with i'd guess this could be done in the car as there isn't much "on top" of the diff that you'd need to get to and can't access. as a last resort, the diff isn't that hard to remove and you can drop it on the ground with the rear axles still attached as well. a bit of effort getting it back in place by yourself (60 pound diff with axles still attached) but just a few minutes of grunt work and it's all good.

both should be great cars. i like to ask for service records. cars with fewer owners and more service records are generallly better maintained and that treats you right down the road. i've owned a ton of subaru's and without a doubt the ones coming from single owners with service records are in tip top shape and have fewer issues years later. the 2.2 rocks. the 96 is a non-interference engine, the 97 is an interference engine. on the 97 i'd recommend changing the timing belt, water pump and timing pulleys/tensioners when i first get the car. that is no small expense. parts alone are $300 or more dollars. don't need to replace all the pulleys, just the noisey ones, which is usually the lower sprocketed pulley. on the 97 with interference engine you don't want to risk a broken timing belt, not on a car that will last a long long time if maintained properly. on the 96 i'd personally do the same thing for reliability but at least the engine won't have internal damage if the belt breaks (non-interference engine). i got 1997 impreza a little over a year ago, great car.over 20,000 miles and hasn't need a thing. new brake pads and all that stuff i did when i first got it..timing belts, water pump etc as preventative.

oil pressure range is normal. the owners manuals for EA82 vehicles mentions the psi difference as being normal.

you'll have to remove the p/s belt to get the new d/s belt on. leave the rear timing covers, no point in removing them really. make sure all your timing pulley bearings are good, a seized pulley will shred your timing belt in no time. if they are noisey (most are at 20 years old and have no grease left in them) consider new pulleys, pressing new bearings, or repacking them with grease. your new belts will shred if a bearing goes bad. turn the cam sprockets using a 10mm ratchet on one of the three cam sprocket bolts. it will feel very tight turning the cam, that's normal resistance from the valve train. non interference engine, so you can turn them all day long and not worry about them touching anythign internally. line up the middle of the three marks ||| on the bellhousing and the d/s cam. install d/s belt. now double check that the marks are dead on after you install and release the tensioner. easy to be a tooth or so off, make sure it's dead on before moving along. once the drivers side is right, install the passengers side. rotate flywheel/flexplate 360 degrees (one complete turn), bringing the ||| marks back up to the top. (just for reference the drivers side cam will now be pointing down). now install the p/s belt.

by diff he means the rear differential. obviously, just to be clear. the stubby shafts in the front differential pop out too, so you could swap those if you wanted to. with the cv axle still attached and a good pull, they'll pop right ouf of the front diff (connected to the trans). push them back in, they have a clip on the inside end that holds them in place.

noisey bearings will clear right up and run perfectly smooth/like new once you pack new grease. the only pulleys i've had to trash are completely seized up. they will tend to "ooze" out around the lips of the pulleys once the car is run and heated up. i suppose pressure builds up, heats up, expands or the grease just works it's way out. i run with no timing covers so i wipe the excess grease away after running it the first few times. don't overfill them with grease either, this will add to the oozing effect and you can actually push the outer seal off while you're pumping.

awesome, glad it's getting better. if you remember to post a follow up in a couple weeks/months i'd like to hear what comes of it.

used is certainly better than bent! post in the parts wanted forum here on usmb. i have an RX i could grab one off of for you if it's the same (pretty sure it is). power steering rack, not manual. for new: http://www.thepartsbin.com has some for $29 and up for EA82. http://www.rockauto.com has really cheap prices sometimes but make sure you're getting the right part.

here it is. i got no credit on it, but i did write this...: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50430

if you buy locally you can always buy and then return the ones you don't need. if you have a press you can order new bearings and install them yourself. think i got mine from http://www.thepartsbin.com for the EA82 and they were cheap, well worth having new bearings. i've repacked them since then as described in my write-up.

might be a coolant line, not very familiar with your engine set up. there is also the intake manifold which has two gaskets on it that can leak. they look much harder to replace than they really are. with engine warm and running look under there and increase the RPM's in neutral and have a look. use flashlights/mirrors whatever helps to get a look at it. be nice to use compressed air to blow any debris/pooled up water out of the way.

i think this is the one i want. what book did you get this from? dealer parts book? for a non-turbo XT 1987.5...this sounds like the one i want. thanks!

i posted a thread about repacking the timing pulley bearings, i'd do that while you're in there. the EA82 are trickier to get at than the XT6 (which are easy, less than a minute each), but can be done. they are inexpensive enough to buy new as well (unlike the XT6 at well over $100 each). do all the timing pulley bearings.

replacing the O2 isn't a bad idea.

No check engine light? how old is the timing belt? i'd wonder if it is old or not tensioned properly? by brakes inspected what does that mean? did they actually pull the caliper apart and grease the slides or just inspect them by saying the function properly and have good rotors/pads? perfectly working brake systems can still drag. check that all tires rotate easily - bad bearings? O2 sensor? is the a/c on all the time? gas cap leaking?

the valve covers and grommets leak often. if you have a leak and that's your only concern i'd address the leak by replacing the valve covers. it is normal for the oil pressure to be high at start up and reduce as the engine warms, it's supposed to do that. on the oil pump are two....from memory i believe hex screws that are accessible by the oil pump. i think you can get to them without puling the pump off. i believe they have a spring in them, this is likely the pressure relief. id' say pull this out and clean it. what engine is this??? 93 loyale....that's still an EA82? there is also a spring related mechanism in the cam tower under the oil squirter bar. it's attached on one end by like a 12mm bolt and on the other end by a 17mm banjo bolt. under that bolt is a spring and a little connical shaped thing....this may be some type of relief valve too, don't know. i clean it out when ever i get into the cams. this is unlikley needed in your case (no pun intended).

called the dealer, but it only gets more confusing: 22611AA320 FWD Nonturbo 22611AA290 AWD Turbo 22611AA073 AWD Nonturbo he said these were part numbers from 8/85 - 7/87 that doesn't make sense as i know they changed from 86-87-88 and why does AWD/FWD matter for the ECU? i guess i'm looking for he 073 if that's the right year.

replace thermostat like he said, don't run it hot and let us know what happens. while the hoses are disconnected for the thermostat install you can run water through the radiator to make sure it's not clogged as well. once you're done diagnosing, drain and refill the radiator with distilled water and antifreeze before hooking the hoses back up. no need for tap water in the system, you want distilled.

can anyone hook me up for a non-turbo 1987.5 XT ECU part number? im getting mostly 22611-AA320, but seeing some discrepancies trying to find it online.

post what engine you have, either EA81 or EA82 and also carbbed or fuel injected. some of us are only familiar with FI engines like myself so i can't help you out as i believe yours is carb but i dont' know when or what models have carb. if it's like the fuel injected (FI) cars then it's by the passegers side rear wheel, crawl under the car and you'll see it mounted up underneath there. but again, i don't know the carbed vehicles at all.

welcome aboard. check out the search function. above is a button, click on "Search". find most things you want in no time, here's a link to one i found with the search button. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51970&highlight=parts click on that link and scroll to the bottom of the page as well, below the posts. you'll see links to related threads about parts, should have anything and everything you want in no time.