idosubaru

that's part of the equation, but there is far more involved than that. i've done a lot of number crunching on these mileage figures over the years of owning various XT6's. proof is right here, all highway miles, road trip numbers, i've owned about a dozen of these i'm fairly familiar with them: Subaru XT6 automatic AWD - 28.5 mpg roughly 3,000 rpms at 75 Subaru XT6 manual AWD - 27 mpg roughly 3,500-3,700 rpms at 75 unless you want to take the side that automatics are more efficient than manuals (which noone would do), the optimum running range for highway gas mileage for the kind of driving i do is in the 3,000 RPM range. my automatics have given me better gas mileage and that's cruising 75 - 80 mph....i may get better if i drove 65 but i'm not about to do that on a long road trip. that being said - an old FWD manual EA82 non-turbo subaru can get 40 mpg. but i don't recall the RPM's those transmissions run, it's been a long time since i've owned the only FWD subaru i had. but i got 40 mpg on highway trips. i'm not a fan of the higher gearing of manual trans either, but it shouldn't affect the motor at all, but it does seem better gas mileage could be had with different gearing on the manual trans.

as i mentioned in the other post, no issues on 5 speeds. entirely different transmissions, parts, no electronics. the 4 wheel drive system isn't even remotely similar.

what was said. thermostat. make sure fan(s) are coming on. flush radiator. water pump. all of these are more likely than head gaskets unless it's been overheated in the past.

must be a maryland thing. i have one entirely ziptied in place on my XT6, with a FREAKING EZOUT (they SUCK) still wedged in the one of the holes i was trying to get a sheared bolt out of years and years ago. looks funny, but i can't get it out. and the one on my XT Turbo is currently on with one bolt and needs a ziptie or two to get it back under the car. i don't know if i'd believe anyone that said those bolts came out without breaking due to rust. mine always do. i installed a Summit Racing pump....forget which model exactly. it would not work installed on the car? i had a thread about it awhile ago. off the car with 12 volts it ran fine. on the car it didn't???? stock pump worked fine, i was just trying to upgrade from my 20 year old 220,000 mile stock pump. i have the same pump as myxyphlyx on the board has on his XT6. he is running it with no problems. i'll try it again on my XT here shortly. nothing that interesting in the thread, but if anyone wants a look old post here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40404&highlight=fuel+pump

they also sell fusible link wire. buy a roll of fusible link wire for a dollar or two and make your own fusible links with the original end links or standard electrical ones off the shelf will work too. i've done it. a handful from the junk yard for 50 cents is nice too if you have the time. they are standard across a zillion models, years, and engines.

excellent details and pics on repackings cv's here: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5460 sounds like you got a busted joint. might be a clip or something, but i'd start sourcing another axle and be prepared. others have mentioned situations like this, but i can't recall details. the information is on this board if you'd like to search for it. good luck. axle removal is fairly straight forward, though i replace instead of rebuild. you should'nt have any problems.

use NGK plugs and most importantly use Subaru OEM wires only. i use magnecor myself, but would not trust any aftermarket wires otherwise. these engines are not forgiving when it comes to ignition. you should get a cylinder misfire code though if your ignition wires/plugs are to blame, but not necessarily true all the time.

WOOO HOOOO!!!!! mucho thanks! i'll buy you a happy meal next time you're in maryland!

i don't believe so on EJ transmissions. if it did, it would be a completely different kind of failure, only similiar symptoms. auto and manual transmissions share nothing in common really. entirely different concept, design and operation. no electronics on a manual trans. older EA and ER series manual transmission subaru's from the 80's and early 90's have center differential locks that could cause similar symptoms. but not until the newer LSD center diff versions could you have any issues like that. these LSD centers are rare and i would expect few issues like this though on an LSD type center diff.

what you deserve and are entitled to and what you will get offered are different things. insurance companies don't pad profits by paying out as much as possible. they typically short change you. your best bet is to go to the hospital and get a lawyer. not that i've done it, but that is the easy way to get your car fixed properly if you don't have the persistence and aggressiveness to persue something like this yourself. attorneys carry clout and are a liability to an insurance company - an individual has niether of these to leverage. you can get whatever you want. the more aggressive and demanding you are, the more you'll get out of them. this is assuming it's your fault. good luck, hope they offer you something fair. i'd look for replacement, it's a good car that could last another 10 years. a cheap fix wouldn't be my choice. if you don't plan on having it for much longer then it might not be worth it to you to bother with that.

Awesome.

imdew i don't have an FSM or the technical info you want, but that's the Duty Solenoid C. you can replace just that solenoid. should see some wires around the rear extension housing. one would be the rear speed sensor, the other the duty solenoid C, unless the wiring is enitrely internal which i can't imagine it is. duty solenoid C is replaceable though, that may fix your problems. be interesting to see how it tests out, definitely post your results. copied from another thread: "The connector is just under the hood over the torque converter housing. There are two found in this area -its the one closest to the driver side. It is a 16 contact connector in a 4X4 configuration. To test solenoid C (AWD) electrically, place an ohmmeter between pins 4 and 11 on the connector half going to the transmission. Looking at the contact side of the connector and the locking tab facing up, the pin numbering will start 1 on the upper right corner going left and down. So 4 will be on the upper left corner and 11 will be the third row, second from the left. This should show 9-17 ohms if solenoid windings haven't burned or wire connection hasn't been severed. " you will not experience any problems. i've driven that way on more than a couple subaru's in automatic and manual form. that being said....pretty sure your Duty Solenoid C is stuck because i don't think the car is driveable with the rear driveshaft disconnected unless: in a manual - the center differential is locked in an automatic - the rear transfer clutches are "locked" via Duty solenoid C this thread has some information about torque bind... if you can sift through all the tangents or just do a search for "torque bind" you'll get a ton of info on it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48865&page=9&highlight=duty+solenoid+modification

thanks. last night i pulled apart EA82T and XT6 ECU's and they are identical except the XT6 has 3 resistors in one area where the EA82T has 2. same resistors, just one extra. the EA82T has a spot marked and labeled for one, it's just not there. i actually plugged the XT6 ECU into my EA82 and it fired right up and drove great! idled high at about 2,000 rpms, but otherwise drove great to my surprise!! all connectors were identical even. the EA82T ECU's are "bad" i believe but i didn't see any bad connections or friend resistors/transistors inside. i ordered another ECU since both EA82T ECU's i have don't run when installed. i'm still completely puzzled that the RX ECU would prime the fuel pump, flashed 2 codes but wouldn't spark. and the XT Turbo ECU would show no codes, sparked fine but would run the fuel pump. hard wiring the fuel pump i could get it to start but it wouldn't run at all. i could only keep it running by varying the gas pedal intensely...holding it steady would make it cut out. oh well, they are junk ECU's i suppose. thanks for the help guys!

first i'd like to take this time to quote mr. wjm for his insightful comment awhile back that i find funny and motivating: the only two 4 cylinder ECU's i had would not run the car, i was assuming they were bad and ordered a new ECU from colorado. rather than wait for it to get here i figured how much different can the XT6 and XT computers be? i opened them up and noticed the only difference i could see was were there are 2 resistors in one place, there are 3 in the XT6. the 4 cylinder has a spot and all marked out for the 3rd resistor, it's just not there. there are probably other differences, but that was all i could see with a quick 3 minute investigation. i plugged it in and the car fired right up and idled!!! ha!!! i found that very funny last night. i unplugged the AAV and some other solenoid under the intake. never tried it with those plugged in but i bet it'd run fine. it idled high, around 2,000 but otherwise idled and drove smooth and fine.

subarian, thanks for all the help. i needed the hill holder mechanism attached to provide the spring return for the clutch. worked perfect and i got to drive it around some last night. needs a little adjusting to come back a little smoother, but worked great. SO STOKED THE MOTOR DOES'NT HAVE TO COME BACK OUT!! looks like the spring on the clutch pedal assembly provides assited for "pushing down" the clutch pedal and the hill holder cable provides the return spring action. there is a small hole on the top of the clutch fork obviously for a return spring as well on non-hilder holder equipped soobs. although one of my XT6's has both - hill holder and a spring, but it's definitely not a stock spring set up. thanks!

i had a warped new rotor, right out of the box last year. same thing you're describing. what i did was jack the front of the car up. i turned both wheels by hand. i could barely feel the passengers side catch at one point during the revolution of the wheel. it was very light. i was surprised how hard it was to tell considering how terrible it pulsated when braking. i guess at speed with the calipers clamped makes all the difference. anyway, i took about 5 times going back and forth between passenger and drivers side to convince myself that the little catch i was feeling while turning the wheel by hand was the bad rotor. took it back and they gave me a new one. unfortunately i got these rotors at a store i don't normally go to and it was in the city. took some convincing as the guy swore i had driven on these or didn't install them properly. he gave me a new one though.

none of the soob motors i've worked on had a washer under the crank bolt. it's always been just the crank pulley and a bolt. i don't think it matters either way, with or without would be fine. either way you need to crank the snot out of the bolt with a long breaker bar and the engine locked in place - in gear, flywheel, flexplate, etc.

big question is whether the accident is your fault or not. if it is then well that's trickier, doable but you gotta be on them alot to get anywhere. if the accident wasn't you fault (which it sounds like it isnt), you can get whatever you want out of them. depends how good and aggressive you want to be. they want most people to scower under the thought of big companies, paper work, and "the system". they want you to believe whatever they tell you, what it's worth etc. they will string you along. demand they fix it and they. my boss had this happen. old VW that looked like an average 20 year old car. he had completely rebuilt the engine and other items himself. they said "totalled"....$800 or something. he battled with them and got his car fixed...eventhough it was thousands of dollars. but he was a hard a$$ on them and threatened lawsuit...in a creative way i'm sure. good luck, if it wasn't your fault don't settle for getting screwed.

if you're speaking of the main crank shaft pulley then be sure to tighten the bolt. iron bolt, iron crankshaft, 22mm bolt - torque the crap out of it. i use a 1/2" socket with a 3 foot breaker bar and put some serious stank into it. anything less and you risk it coming off. it could be coming apart and appearing to wobble if the inner and outer parts are seperating from the rubber ring between them. if you look really close there's a rubber ring around the middle of the pulley, this is rubber and over time seperates causing the inner part to spin and the outer to not spin as fast or seize or fall off...etc. causing overheating and charging problems. if you need a new pulley - score a used one somewhere. temporarily the two "halves" can be kept together with sheet metal screws screwed in between where the rubber is. or tack weld it. i hope i'm reading this correctly, if not help me out a little.

okay it is a 2.2 liter, i looked it up. i'd read the steps in the links posted above, they should help you figure out the codes yourself. most likely you don't need a scan tool. i just read through those links, that is what you're looking for. no scan tool needed.

what engine do you have an EJ? there is information on how to read those codes yourself posted above i believe. if not, you can find it on the board somewhere. often you don't need a scan tool to read the codes.

you at least need a rear diff vent tube going to the roof if you're going to stay in that kind of slop much! nice pic.

good point - advanced auto parts will take your anitfreeze for free. just dump it in with your oil. i just did last night, dumped a few gallons of it in the oil tank. excellent deal. the local government recycling center only takes oils.

HA HAAA derrick rules. another vote for that. with the diff on the ground and pins out the axles "should" come off. did you try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench? that stuff is awesome. sounds like yo'ure really stuck though.

thanks much, i'll check tonight and post back tomorrow.