ShawnW

Ive got 0 volts on both sides.

Gl10 is just an option package. Extra goodies but not necessarily Turbo.

Cougar: Im not understanding too well but its not your fault. Im a little wiring challenged sometimes and yet I can do the ej22 wiring harness conversion in a couple hours (most ppl take a full weekend to do it). Yes, thoughts of putting the 2.2 in here instead of figuring this out are VERY tempting. I have 12 volts to the pin 26 one you referenced. I have continuity between these pins and their respective injectors. pins 21, 22, 25, &30. Can you spell this out for me a little: If you have 12 volts on both sides of the injector coils then that would mean that the grounding is getting to them from the ECM and it may need to be replaced. Whats "both sides" mean? I tried another ECU, in fact 2 others without success but I dont know them to be good. Im hoping a friend of mine will let me borrow her 84 Turbo coupe so I can do some comparison to a running one.

Use a GPS and a Brother P-Touch Labeler to re-label your speedometer.

If you know which piston came out of which bore just return them to their originals to be safe. Make sure there isnt significant skirt scrape on the pistons and you should be fine.

Im in Denver and we have a lift here thats about ready for the public. If you want to come see my car with the lift installed on it PM me. The lift is 4" and adds a frame under the whole vehicle....special with this lift. I have an 83 Wagon so pretty much the same car as yours.

My ECS light illuminates and I get codes. That'd mean the ecu is getting power or is it just getting power to part of it?

If the body looks the same it will fit. If by 89 GL you mean a hatchback then no.

Genuine Subaru Brake fluid is what the dealers around here use. Rub HARD with a rag and then wipe off excess.

Legacy hubcaps look pretty good on pug steels.

You might have a misground cam. I would contact delta to see what they think.

Next time dont attempt to start your engine without building oil pressure first. Easily done by disconnecting the coil wire prior to cranking it over or on the newer models disconnecting the ignitor.

Dont drive a black station wagon with shag carpet hanging from the roof, speakers blaring and a bright orange stripe down the side of the car that just screams PULL ME OVER.

Ill trade you your two new checker ones for 4 of the ones you want, already clean and ready to install. Those look to be 1600 pistons which I need. I wont trade if yours are oversize pistons though.

Im getting spark, the car runs, but poorly on carb cleaner.

My 83 Turbowagon is nearing completion and I have this nagging problem that I cant figure out. The car will crank over but will not start without flooding it out on fuel injector/carb cleaner. I have tested the injectors themselves and when I apply a small amt of voltage to them they will click but I am not getting the signal to them from the car. I have gone thru my 83 factory service manual supplement (turbo specific book)'s flowcharts and am getting nowhere. I am open to ANY suggestion. This car is kindof a basketcase that has taken me years to get to where I am now with interesting hurdles to cross such as: No Fuel pump relay installed in car. Wires to fuel pump itself cut. If I connect the green connectors the fuel pump cycles on/off.

The only one thats longer on the OEM is the #2 wire. #2 is on the drivers side front of the engine. This is because it goes around more stuff if I am picturing it right.

I believe is an M10 x 1.25 and youre right its threaded only at the end and sleeved thru the rest. The MOOG brand ball joints sold at many parts stores come with a new bolt when you buy the ball joint if I remember correctly. Its right around 2" long overall length and should be a grade 10 bolt. I believe what I used one time was a rotary cutter and I cut thru the gap in the hub to get the ball joint out and get the front half of the bolt out and then I came thru the other side with a LH drill bit and pulled it back out the backside. Its been a while since I did that. Oh the memories of living in Iowa salt country.

My buddy is Marshall Wolf, referenced above and his website is below. I see him every day and know his axles are built RIGHT and are fully rebuilt to tollerance unlike most assembly line rebuilds. He will use new heads most of the time because finding rebuildable outer joints is getting hard. http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/

That looks like a TIMESERT. Put an old sparkplug into that hole to the depth of the top of the hole and then hit the plug sideways which cracks the top of the insert off flush. If you have trouble and want to mail the head to me I will fix it for you.

Kennedy Engineered Products aquired C.A.R.B. excemptions for Vanagons owners that use their kits and as such they are legal but from what I have heard any other car mod that doesnt have CARB approval has to seek it before doing the change over.

Its based on what your thermostat temp is if you are measuring the block temp. A reading of 195, 192, 180, and 175 would be common.

I call it a Cam Tower but all of those are technically correct.

You would be in Australia or Denver. Here, any old GL that didnt get one has a crack the size of the grand canyon in the dash.

check the snap on truck we got one from our guy.