ShawnW

I would just pull the engine out of the car if it gave me that much trouble.

Thanks for posting I wish I could afford to buy and ship that here.

Nice job on the repair I cant see it. Something some of us knew all along was those little EA81 era cars that aren't 4wd, hatches, or Brats are still going to draw attention and money eventually. They are unique and are tossed aside quicker than the sought after models.

Keep plugging along man those bolts aren't going to be that bad to fight. A sharp set of drill bits and a lot of patience should get them out.

Where is Sanders at ? I think you would be able to get a tank from somebody on the forums here. A Wagon, sedan, coupe or brat tank will work just not a hatchback. Must also be from a 4wd car. Post a wanted ad in the marketplace.

Oil sender: Ive done them with the ea sending unit, take it off the old engine take it to a shop that makes stainless steel brake lines and ask them to adapt the end to a fitting that will plumb into the spot where the dummy sender on the 2.2 is. Give it about 10 inches of line and lay it between the ps pump and the alternator and wire to that. I wish I had a picture of that still. The temp won't send enough reading. I think somebody here used a resistor to make it work. I just used an aftermarket temp gauge.

Rapid clicking is the solenoid making the noise but usually bad battery cable or connection causes it. Crackling is another noise and could be a bad connection as indicated high amp like ign switch connector.

Doesnt seem like that bad of an idea just limits your ability to put Subaru wheels on it again.

Take the car to the dealer immediately and have them look at it. If they replace the clutch and the symptoms persist I think it may be you as harsh as this may sound.

IT could be the fuel pump which I normally ground on the body of the pump itself.

Downloaded and printed thanks Numbchux and rxleone. Shawn

Id get 02 WRX complete engine and wiring harness from a rusty or wrecked one and put the 2.2 shortblock in with all its heads and engine management. Then you can do Access Port or similar, lots of wrx upgrade pieces available, and the wiring isn't terribly hard. I have the diagrams and would do a cutdown harness for you for a reasonable fee.

For one head on a recently serviced engine I might consider it but otherwise I pull the engine. I have become quite quick at pulling them thanks to this practice.

Keep going-- that is looking like a great project!

Bought one here in Colorado for the rally car for 500 with all the pieces we needed except motor mounts which were destroyed in the collision the car had been in.

I know its too late for this advice but next time call a theatre and have them physically mail a gift certificate. Thats the "old school" before the internet way to do it. Soft jab with broom handle nothing more.

A nice set of sheepskin ones would protect it and be a nice added amount of cushion to the seat if you can still find them. I 2nd the plaid seat protect that thing they are brittle.

Keep fresh oil in that motor and it will last a long time. Flush transmission or drain and fill often as well. Coolant change every 2 years. Btw welcome to the forum!

Sounds like time for a trip to the junkyard and find another car like yours and start pulling the vac lines one at a time till you find the pellets.

I searched "Momo 7302" and found this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73409&highlight=momo+7302 Sounds like you need a 7303 adapater or to use a Justy steering wheel as it shares the same splines.

I seem to recall that not working you might do a search to verify though.

Awesome I have seen a growing number of these with this problem recently and coupled with the climate control bulb fix this is pretty cool. It would look stupid to have all the climate control bulbs fixed and not the radio.

Awesome I have seen a growing number of these with this problem recently and coupled with the climate control bulb fix this is pretty cool. It would look stupid to have all the climate control bulbs fixed and not the radio.

Its not all bad. You can use a long block from a 96-99 Outback and many legacy cars. You could convert it to an ej22 rather easily as well but I have a good recipe for not getting CEL's if you want to go that way and many people cut key corners and end up with lots of CEL codes. This might also be a problem in CA though and not possible legally. I like the 96 motor the most its Hydraulic lifters and neater looking valve covers. Otherwise its the same motor. Its also got the 96 piston in the shortblock and less prone to piston slap but not by much.

I have done it. You want the smallest hog rings and a pair of pliers usually sold at Farm stores literally they are for Hogs. They are really cheap too. You cut the old rings off by pulling part of the upholstery or leather back and cut the thing off. Usually you start by separating the seat back from the seat bottom. Then there is an obvious gap in the bottom edge of the seat back or a zipper somewhere. Open that up and start finding clips you can cut off. The cover will slowly come off. Then you will find the heater which is a blanketed thing with small wires in it. Usually white cotton looking material with red stitching. Just get it out and put the seat back together with the rings and pliers.