ShawnW

Thats right.

And that picture shows it slightly off too. Just poking a little fun.

Sounds like something just isnt plugged in to me. Take the trim around the column back off and check that first. Did you remove the steering wheel to do the work to start with or after you discovered the light was coming on?

Subaru put out a bulletin stating to use a rubber nubbed tool that 3m makes. Its white and has little nubs. It is used with a surfacing gun on a fairly low speed. Found example on their site here: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_o=HTML&PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=GSPVVWTFSCgsSQSFJR0R56glLZM4D26C64bl They call it a roloc bristle disc. You should be able to find these locally without ordering 100 bux worth online but im not sure where from. Green Scotchbrite by hand should be ok if you dont press too hard. You are only trying to remove the black residue left by the old head gasket. I spray a little brakeleen on the scotchbrite to make it clean a little faster and I get a freebie out of it sometimes. Just kidding. Actually the brake cleaner slows down your progress but makes you notice its clean before you are taking divots out. You can remove aluminum with this product so be careful. The new breather plates are a stamped steel and come with allen type screws. A black screw for the arrow indicated hole and the rest. The black already has locktite on it. I havent seen any changes on the screws for the oil pump. I too use locktite red for them. I dont change rear mains unless they are leaking or are not a factory brown seal.

I believe the discrepancy is the front ones are Air fuel not o2. Technically there is only 1 o2 sensor on that car and its measuring the cat efficiency more than anything. Sorry you got the wrong parts though.

What do you need it on TDC 1 for? Can't you set it back there when you are done removing it? I spray penetrant on the crankshaft area with the bolt removed.

If its a manual trans subaru you can flat tow it with a towbar and not have as much weight for the tow vehicle to try to handle. Id remove the front bumper and put a solid attachment in for it as the "tow hooks" on a Subaru are a joke. The actually track real nice and its nice to not have a trailer to store and deal with. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMBOD0

Did the engine you swapped in's car have a charcoal canister under the hood or was it back on the right rear of the car like the outback? I want to say a 97 has the rear canister if you used an intake off one with it in the back of the car you will have problems. What I do when I do these swaps is gut the intake manifold except the fuel rails and then move the Throttle body, wiring harness, egr pieces and solenoids from the one intake to the other. You have to fool the car into thinking nothing changed. You should have all the pieces except the gaskets to do this as well. The fuel piping and vac pipes will all unbolt from the bottom of the intake and swap on. A couple bolt holes wont be used and the pipes might be loose in a spot or two but they will stay put and work fine. Take your time and move over carefully and it will work out. The EGR pipe will work on both engines.

Pull the thermostat housing bolts, 2 10MM and pull the t-stat. Youll need to have a new t-stat gasket but they are cheap at the dealer. Haynes is misleading at times.

Im going to solve part of mine with the 5 lug conversion as the newer struts are utilized and have some camber adjustment.

Looks like icing on really crappy cake to me.

The engine should be a 4 cam 2.5. If it is it takes the multilayer metal gasket that is almost shiny. If its a 2 cam 2.5 SOHC then it takes a grey graphite colored gasket. This one is alot thinner than the 4 cam gasket. Have access to a cameraphone or a digi camera? If you do take a pic of the gasket and email it to me at shawnw@ultimatesubaru.org

I dont see any pictures of them with primer. Do you guys?

Dealer or maybe certifit.

Driveshaft locking up in the carrier bearing?

Welcome to the site! See you at rallycross too I am on Max's team.

Can somebody pm the the thread on that forum about the bearings? I assume its the idler and tensioner bearings you are talking about? As for the swap nothing is gained except maybe your 2.2 motor isnt dead. Still interference and still prone to hg eventually. Youlld need to swap the single port exhaust y section of the front exhaust.

Do you have to pass emissions? The first gen legacy is a hydraulic if its a turbo. I think the OBS 5 speed tranny would be ok depends on you more than the trans. Launching won't be ok but spirited driving should be fine. Youre going to have to move the engine crossmember to clear the turbo up pipe but thats realatively straightforward with the engines out.

Last time I checked there isnt a bulb you can just unplug and replace and subaru doesnt offer a separate part I believe you buy the whole tach or speedo depending on which side that one has the clock in it.

While I would agree that its doable in the car I wouldn't advise that somebody having trouble continue to try removing the 1 head in the car. Rent or borrow an engine hoist and remove the engine. You will be able to see what you are doing and next time (or not) you will know where all the bolts are, sizes, how long they are, etc so doing it in the car will be doable next car. Id love to have the opportunity to race somebody that says they can remove 1 head in the car faster than I can get the whole engine out. I can remove most EFI engines that aren't turbocharged in around 40-50 minutes. (well not today I am too sore from a car accident). Ill also be able to replace the clutch, rear separator plate, timing belt and other things faster or at all by removing it.

For the most part this is correct but the harness is completely different part number and build and some things don't fit right on LHD vs RHD and such so they have to relocate them.

Dont even try without the right tool if you ding the surface you will leak more oil than before you replaced the seals. Im not sure I would be worried about them leaking if they aren't now. If they are brown seals they have likely already been replaced before. The factory put black ones in and those tended to leak and were on a TSB if I recall correctly.

Awesome pictures Rob thanks for posting them!

It would be worth re-shimming the diff if either had made funny noises or something but in this case I think its an if it ain't broke don't fix it answer.

I park them on the street and its hard because they have to be licensed and currently tagged to be there. Make sure its just collecting or for a purpose other than pissing off neighbors it will backfire. Trust me.