ShawnW

What do you need it on TDC 1 for? Can't you set it back there when you are done removing it? I spray penetrant on the crankshaft area with the bolt removed.

If its a manual trans subaru you can flat tow it with a towbar and not have as much weight for the tow vehicle to try to handle. Id remove the front bumper and put a solid attachment in for it as the "tow hooks" on a Subaru are a joke. The actually track real nice and its nice to not have a trailer to store and deal with. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMBOD0

Did the engine you swapped in's car have a charcoal canister under the hood or was it back on the right rear of the car like the outback? I want to say a 97 has the rear canister if you used an intake off one with it in the back of the car you will have problems. What I do when I do these swaps is gut the intake manifold except the fuel rails and then move the Throttle body, wiring harness, egr pieces and solenoids from the one intake to the other. You have to fool the car into thinking nothing changed. You should have all the pieces except the gaskets to do this as well. The fuel piping and vac pipes will all unbolt from the bottom of the intake and swap on. A couple bolt holes wont be used and the pipes might be loose in a spot or two but they will stay put and work fine. Take your time and move over carefully and it will work out. The EGR pipe will work on both engines.

Pull the thermostat housing bolts, 2 10MM and pull the t-stat. Youll need to have a new t-stat gasket but they are cheap at the dealer. Haynes is misleading at times.

Im going to solve part of mine with the 5 lug conversion as the newer struts are utilized and have some camber adjustment.

Looks like icing on really crappy cake to me.

The engine should be a 4 cam 2.5. If it is it takes the multilayer metal gasket that is almost shiny. If its a 2 cam 2.5 SOHC then it takes a grey graphite colored gasket. This one is alot thinner than the 4 cam gasket. Have access to a cameraphone or a digi camera? If you do take a pic of the gasket and email it to me at shawnw@ultimatesubaru.org

I dont see any pictures of them with primer. Do you guys?

Dealer or maybe certifit.

Driveshaft locking up in the carrier bearing?

Welcome to the site! See you at rallycross too I am on Max's team.

Can somebody pm the the thread on that forum about the bearings? I assume its the idler and tensioner bearings you are talking about? As for the swap nothing is gained except maybe your 2.2 motor isnt dead. Still interference and still prone to hg eventually. Youlld need to swap the single port exhaust y section of the front exhaust.

Do you have to pass emissions? The first gen legacy is a hydraulic if its a turbo. I think the OBS 5 speed tranny would be ok depends on you more than the trans. Launching won't be ok but spirited driving should be fine. Youre going to have to move the engine crossmember to clear the turbo up pipe but thats realatively straightforward with the engines out.

Last time I checked there isnt a bulb you can just unplug and replace and subaru doesnt offer a separate part I believe you buy the whole tach or speedo depending on which side that one has the clock in it.

While I would agree that its doable in the car I wouldn't advise that somebody having trouble continue to try removing the 1 head in the car. Rent or borrow an engine hoist and remove the engine. You will be able to see what you are doing and next time (or not) you will know where all the bolts are, sizes, how long they are, etc so doing it in the car will be doable next car. Id love to have the opportunity to race somebody that says they can remove 1 head in the car faster than I can get the whole engine out. I can remove most EFI engines that aren't turbocharged in around 40-50 minutes. (well not today I am too sore from a car accident). Ill also be able to replace the clutch, rear separator plate, timing belt and other things faster or at all by removing it.

For the most part this is correct but the harness is completely different part number and build and some things don't fit right on LHD vs RHD and such so they have to relocate them.

Dont even try without the right tool if you ding the surface you will leak more oil than before you replaced the seals. Im not sure I would be worried about them leaking if they aren't now. If they are brown seals they have likely already been replaced before. The factory put black ones in and those tended to leak and were on a TSB if I recall correctly.

Awesome pictures Rob thanks for posting them!

It would be worth re-shimming the diff if either had made funny noises or something but in this case I think its an if it ain't broke don't fix it answer.

I park them on the street and its hard because they have to be licensed and currently tagged to be there. Make sure its just collecting or for a purpose other than pissing off neighbors it will backfire. Trust me.

You are kind of inspiring me. Back in 2003 I brought back a 1983 Turbowagon from Washington state and I have probably towed it more miles than I have driven it to this day but the story sure sounds similar. I have a power drain and to make things worse I dont know if its the car or the 2.2 swap or stereo or god knows what else that I have wired over the years.

So how many would be interested in the kit? I am working on setting up the first order and would like to know who would ACTUALLY buy one. The whole kit not just parts of it, and then those that would buy just the rear or just the front. Remember doing just the front means you will have difficulty in having an emergency brake which I am pretty sure is illegal to put a car on the road in the US without and just plain dangerous if it is legal. The price might seem high but by the time you buy Peugeot wheels, lugnuts or lugnut adapters you have spent some cash and have a rare and not always attractive wheel and tire combo. This opens up the wheel options and improves the brakes a great deal. If you bend a Peugeot wheel how many spares are available compared to a factory 5 bolt Subaru alloy/steelie? And are you going to be able to buy anything bigger than a 15" Peugeot? I love how these cars look with 16" WRX wheels...which are very cheap on craigslist at times.

Id agree clean the contacts. You can ground one of the wires and if the gauge rises to F your gauge is good too. Any Ea81 non digi dash car except the hatchback will have the same sending unit. Be real careful with the nuts on the tank to sender connection those little guys can snap off easy. Penetrating lube a few days in a row and then try with a very short 1/4" ratchet and shallow socket.

Me too. Pretty handy to have something that can stay on with the key off.