ShawnW

The single port means nothing for valve collision. 97 Model year 2.2 is interference. Its true on the power increase of interference. Get a real Subaru dealer part for the belt. Request the california spec 2.2 belt if you can...these are rated at 105K miles. Id also replace the water pump, thermostat and gasket, and the tensioner if it has a blue idler bearing that is part of it and not a barrel tensioner.

Have any enemies/pranksters that might have plugged your exhaust? I think you need to lift all 4 wheels off the ground and see if something is locked up like a brake be it E-brake or half the hydraulic system. Don't over complicate it until you have narrowed it down.

Id put money on at either Bratman or yours being the radiator cap if not both. The new ones are doing it under warranty on a regular basis. I can't believe I am saying this but I would buy a lifetime warranty aftermarket cap. I dont say that very often about genuine Subaru parts they are usually a good buy. You could have your caps tested at the dealer for a few bucks but it would probably be a better investment to just buy a new one and hope for the best.

Impressive post. Thanks for sharing your work with the forum.

I think all you can really do is replace the wheel bearings and maybe the outer tie rod ends and get a professional 4 wheel alignment done. They will find any other problems while aligning it.

It will settle back into the transmission but can be annoying at times. I hold the center nub up with one hand and spin it with the other. If you dont hold it up it will rotate on the wrong axis and won't sink in. Place the trans on a jack stand an inch or so above the engine crossmember to make stabbing the engine easier. The holes for the torque converter bolts to engine flexplate will be flush with the bellhousing when its in all the way. If you aren't sure take a picture and post. Stabbing it with the converter sticking out will destroy the oil pump in the transmission and make your life miserable for a few days.

On top of that an 06 or newer Subaru can't be read by a standard OBDII reader anyway. These cars are CANBUS I believe and don't read well with traditional scanners. The cruise light is on because the Check Engine light is on. If the light isn't flashing (The check engine light that is) you are ok to drive it until you can get to the dealership. It might clear itself after a few drive cycles depending on the code. (Gas cap loose or off can) As far as the tire pressure warning light mentioned.... When the air pressure was set, you need to know what temp it was outside. For every 10 degrees of temperature drop from that temperature you need to add 1 pound of air to the tire. Do not exceed the sidewall recommended max pressure though. The tire pressure warning light will reset itself without assistance from the dealer if the tire pressure is above the door placard recommendation and may require you to drive the car for a mile or two at slow speed to reset. For example. Air set at 70 Degrees on a car that recommends 35PSI....today it is 30 degrees out.... 40 degree drop means add 4 PSI to the tires for a total of 39. In Denver with Nitrogen fill system I have been setting them to 38 and have had happy customers...even Tribeca customers. The Nitrogen fill is not recommended by Subaru for TPMS though but we use it anyway without problem. I apologize for this list comment but it needs to be said. ALL of this is in the owners manual. One of the nicest owners manuals I have ever seen Subaru publish. (the 2008 and above sets).

Nice photos thanks for sharing. Would love a summer follow up if you are around there again.

Take pictures and bail money if you go on the mud road again. Ill be happy to look up the map and directions to that wonderful(sarcasm) place.

If I had to do it over again I would put mine down on the floorboard like the WRX has it on the passenger side foot board. Mine is currently IN the glovebox along with the IGN relay, FP relay and the ignitor if I remember correctly. I also put the memory and D-Check connectors here as well.

So whats the timing set at?

The white version of that is the Subaru approved tool for removing gasket residue from blocks. I don't see the green version being enough difference to be the problem. Did you pressure test the new heads the same way you did the old ones?

Actually its the 81 GL Brat that had the ea81 first. The 80 Brat is still a 1600. The 81 was also the first brat with a dual range transmission. The first cars (Subaru of America) to get the EA81 with the newer body style were the hatchback with the 3AT Automatic in 1980 FWD, and the 81 Wagon. This was the debut year of the hatchback and the new style wagon. Subaru doesn't make this easy to remember but it helps to think that the models don't overlap. They didnt have an old gen brat and a new in the same year for example. Back on topic I would buy the one that looks the least tampered with of the two regardless of which one is known to pass smog or not. The 84 could just as easily fail and has even more pollution control devices on it to fail with. Smog is #2 priority in my book. BODY is 1st. Then smog, then interior condition. The body is the hardest to overcome and most expensive to do right. Smog can kick your butt for a long time but can be overcome. With the 84 you do lose the cyclops light but it can be retrofitted in.

Put a shallow 17MM chrome snap on socket on a high quality 3/8 air ratchet and bump the trigger a few times. You might be pleasantly surprised. As long as the key for the crank is pointed down on any Subaru 4 cyl engine you won't have the valves hitting the pistons. It also happens to be where it belongs when setting the timing belt.

They call that a volt controlling diode I think. Limits systems to 12V. I believe the ignition system and the headlight system work thru that perticular one. Don't cut it out and you will be fine. 1/2 of it can be clipped off though.

Ive made the Iowa (and Colorado for that matter which is plenty long just 1 day less driving) to WCSS trip as has McBrat. I grew up back there in Iowa City. Both of us have had a little car trouble on the way so whatever you do make sure the vehicle you are taking is 1000% solid. Remember also that a lifted rig, or a modified one for that matter is a gamble and a difficult journey both for the rig but even more so, you. I did it in a 1990 Legacy LOADED to the gills with brushguards, parts, camping gear, food for 5 days, etc. Crossing deserts, mountain ranges, rain storms. Its like playing Oregon trail but in a slightly more modern ride. On this perticular trip I drove West with just the Legacy, and returned with a truck, tow-bar'd car and my ex wife driving the Legacy. Don't go alone if you can avoid it and this means caravan with another member, or at least bring a friend, spouse, etc along to keep you company. The trip will go a lot faster and more relaxing when you have "support" if something does happen. Mick did it in Mountain Grizzly and had a radiator fan failure somewhere inconvenient if I remember correctly. ChefTim (South Dakota to WCSS NEAR TACOMA) had a blast in the mud pits and such at the WCSS3 show and filled the radiator on his lifted Turbowagon with mud. A hard lesson learned being to remember to make it home. Having fun at the meet is great but you have a 1500 mile drive back home ahead of you. It will be extremely hard to not stick a tire into some mud, sand, or offroad trail once you are out West. Have fun at the show and I hope I get to go this year. Maybe I will find a way to Caravan with you Iowa guys.

PM "LegacyMax" and see if he will reply to this thread on how he did a similar diff swap. His used a SVX one maybe?

It would have happened a lot faster in most driveways.

Damn that is slick! Its not even a total POS brand either.

Do you really want a sedan? They don't hold their value as well as a wagon does. I wouldnt buy a former rental car. Nobody treats the car like they would if it was theirs and frankly people don't take care of their own car worth a damn either so why.... I think for that money you could get a 3.0 6 model or something with a few more miles on it, the car is out of 3/36 warranty but would still have a 5/60 powertrain left.

Botched boob job is my guess but it might be an accidental amputation. http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/11/28/when-surgeons-cut-the-wrong-body-part/ Just kidding but the last guess sure does make you think.

Honestly I am thinking of going to 4.11 Legacy trans and losing LO. I dont think its absolutely necessary with the 2.2 to have a lo range and the 4.11 will help offset the loss a little. I had RX FT 3.7 with LSD rear for a while. Now mine is PT 5spd D/R and I would agree its too much but in my case its too much for the front axles. I will also be able to ditch the adapter plate, inferior clutch and the drilled out flywheel. Unfortunately I will need a different custom driveshaft again I think.

I am not sure what I think of this right now. For today I will settle for just a reaction of shocked. For me auto racing isn't fun to watch unless its WRC and without Subaru in it what is the point? Damn.

That punch is utter worthless if you have to do one on anything where the clearance to the catalyst around the pin is tight. A snap-on 7/32" long punch, or the tool mentioned above (I have both) are essential in my opinion. Great on Turbo axles, Newer outback axles, the whole lot. A long 1/4" extension is also very handy. You stick the end of the pin into the female end of the extension to hold the pin while you drive it in with a small hammer. Too big a hammer and you get a 180' out situation very easily if you aren't watchful of your work.

It may be the pitch stopper mount. You will have to remove the air intake duct and look at the sheet metal to see if the spot welds have come loose.