ShawnW

I dont really think in relative terms these were inexpensive cars. And today's certainly are not cheap. Yet, this doesnt seem to be a factor for people they still abuse, ignore recommended or suggested maintenence (doesnt matter if its in the owners manual or the dealership/repair shop), and neglect these cars consistantly. Its sad that finding one that was cared for is a rarity. Heck, finding a 2003 that has all the maint done is rare for me to see. People just do not do the math and people love to gamble because they got away with something for years on a previous one.

From 91 FSM in case somebody else has a 90-94 AT code they need to retrieve: EXISTING PROBLEM CHECK PROCEDURE Move shifter to D and turn manual switch ON. Turn Ignition switch ON Move select lever to 3 and turn manual switch OFF Move select lever to 2 and turn manual switch ON Move select lever to 1 and turn manual switch OFF Partially depress accelerator pedal (this turns the idle switch off) Verify that the light is blinking on the dash. Count like any Subaru trouble code with long/short. 11-duty solenoid A 12 duty solenoid B 13 shift solenoid 3 14 shift solenoid 2 15 shift solenoid 1 21 atf temp sensor 22 atmospheric sensor 23 engine rev signal 24 duty solenoid C 31 throttle sensor 32 vehicle speed sensor 1 33 vehicle speed sensor 2 There is a procedure for previous problem check, it is : Move lever to 1 and turn manual switch on Ignition switch on Move lever to 2 and turn manual switch off Move select lever to 3 and turn manual switch ON Move select lever to D and turn manual switch OFF Partially press accel pedal Read codes

Sweet! Glad to see you around still too!

Grab a can of carb cleaner and mist around the engine compartment looking to see if the idle increases anywhere that you are spraying it. This will find leaks and things you need to seal or connect hoses to, etc. If you have a timing light please check the timing. If you dont, go to Autozone or similar and rent a timing light. If you dont know how to use it reply back here and we will help. Just dont remove the distributor! Its running right now it just may need a slight tweek. Unfortunately high CO is a pretty vague thing. It can mean so many things but most of all just remember dont get frustrated too badly with failure of emissions. Passing will really make the car run peak and make that car you have aquired for its gas mileage all the more worth it.

The biggest trick to me would be how you are sitting at the computer posting pictures instead of driving it around ALL the time. Nice work thanks for taking a break from driving it and posting up here. Stick around you arent the only one sticking something new in something old around here.

Its not like an Outback couldnt have done that its how much your back would hurt loading and unloading it thru the cabin. For me the Baja isn't working out as well as I had hoped. I like our Brat better. (We have both and a 97 Outback here) The Brat bed is bigger even with the bed extender. The Outback seats 5. The baja has a cupholder in the center of the back seat that I dont like or use. The NASA plastic in the bed is kindof cool but I would rather have sheetmetal and a real truckbed with a spray in bedliner. The Outback basically has the same cargo room as the Baja with a built in topper. A Baja topper MSRP is around 2000 dollars. Thats as much as a brat and a pretty decent one if you look hard enough. Add 100 bucks and the Brat will have a topper too. A brat would haul what you have there. I put 5 transmissions a LSD rear diff and an engine in the back of mine one time. Thats at least 1000-1200 pounds. It drove weird but it was ok. I dont think it hurt my top speed a whole lot but thats not saying much for a Brat. What really chaps it...is the Vanagon beats out almost every car I have at hauling stuff. It all fits inside the damn thing, and I only have to lift it about 10" off the ground into the sliding door on the side which is a lot more convenient many times...at spots where you can parallel park on a street and such that really pays off versus backing into a spot (when available). I just put a truck bed mat in it and I use it more like a Truck than any of my cars. I could probably put 25 wheels and tires in the damn thing if I protected the interior enough. About the only thing its not good at is a 4x8 sheet of plywood. Its about 2" too short in width to the rear cabinet. But if I needed to haul a 14' long 2x6 I turn the front seat around and stick it in. In the end I think we will end up with a Toyota Pickup, an Outback, and a Brat around here. Just cant beat the rear jumpseats an T-tops of the old school. Sorry.

Use the 2.2 sprockets. Bolt the IAC from the 2.5 where the 2.2 IAC was. Then it will plug right in. You will get EGR codes constantly. You need an intake with it and to drill the LH head out for the EGR pipe.

I couldnt agree more with the last poster. But if you must, at least get a set of jack stands they are very cheap. (A pair at Napa is probably 25 or less). Use the scissor jack to get the corner up off the ground, place a jack stand under the vehicle at a safe point (see owners manual for locations). And do your work with the jack stand(s) under the car.

Looks like a blast I will have to go next time if schedule allows.

Did they write the driver of the car that pulled out a ticket?

I moved your post over to this forum, its more appropriate here. What you have there is piston slap, unfortunately pretty common and if it goes away in 5 minutes of running its nothing too terrible to worry about.

They fray inside like the clutch cables do and causes them to stick. Replace it even with a used one that works nice at the yard and youll be done.

Sorry I didnt stop by. Well have to have a meet that people show up to here soon enough.

It sounds like the TPS has been messed with. If the paint marks on the screws arent aligned anymore thats even more the case. I wouldnt even try messing with getting it setup right again, just get another TBI from the junkyard from a known running one or at least one that doesnt have any indicator ofbeing messed with(adjust attempts). Its one that wont throw a CEL too. Really should make sure the CEL is hooked up though. See if codes exist, pull them, etc. It may have a major problem with ecu or similar and be going to limp mode immediately.

Has a lot less rust than that one white you you bought a few years back.

Heck, the whole car for that matter...very clean.

With Jeff out, attendance rises. Just kiddin ya Jeff. Im a maybe, I am kindof Subaru burnt out at the moment. Only temporary.

No the bolt pattern is different, it doesnt have a dimple fo the rear diff and the lines and senders are different. Compatible with your 86 Brat is: 82-87 Brat 80-84 Wagon 4wd 81-83 Coupe 4wd 82-84 Sedan 4wd The hatch tank wont work either. It is smaller and shorter front to back.

No offense meant here... But if you are having trouble with a Brat you dont want an SVX. The Brat is basic and simple mechanical stuff. The SVX is stuffed full under the hood, prone to trans problems, wheel bearings every 60K or so and expensive tires and almost everything else on the car (when the part is still available.) Lets not forget, the windshield alone is probably more expensive than a Brat. MSRP over 800 probably closer to 1200 most markets.

I saw, at Wal-Mart, they had a cig lighter accessory that reads battery voltage. Nice as you can put it in any of your cars if you are like me and switch vehicles like underwear.

All Subaru viscous couplers are sealed units. It takes 15 minutes because the heat builds up in it and the fluid in the trans surrounding it to heat up and match. The part alone is 450 bucks. Go buy it and take the tailhousing off your transmission and replace it. Its really a lot easier than it looks. More time consuming than anything but you wont be any happier smelling the 75W90 oil than you are about the price of the part. Remember, failure causes for this part: Driving with mismatched tires...this can even mean putting one new one on with 3 used ones of exactly the same tire. It matters. 150K miles plus...pretty common time to fail. Hard driving on pavement such as Autocross/rallycross. These last "under normal conditions" a long time. Excessive heat in the transmission would likely cause premature failure. Heavy towing, or yanking somebody out of a ditch with the wheels turned for example. If it would have caused the trans in a true 4wd tranny to bind, you are stressing the coupler a little.

I would say $2500-3000 maybe more depending on what you are including for accessories like bumper accessories, winch, fresh work done, topper, etc. Those would add to it pushing it nearer to $3500-4000. Put it on Ebay for 10 days with an opening bid of no less than $2200 and see what happens.

Whatcha got to lose? If its crap flat tow it to the scrapyard and get scrap value for the weight. Or splurge for the 1 time or monthly.

Try posting a WTB post in the marketplace here.

Cool, got any videos of the spanking? Just kidding.