ShawnW

Jerry I have a radiator that is modified to have the lower outlet point down and the outlet is sized up to match the thermostat housing. I am going to be selling it too, if you want first crack at it let me know. It worked great with my 4" lift until I changed the lift design dramatically. $80 plus shipping for the radiator and I will throw in some shifter parts for your conversion kits as core parts. Has about 3000 miles on the radiator.

2wd rear wagon shocks might be enough.

If you are talking about the little black ones, I think quite highly of them. I cut one in half and it had a very good drainback valve, a ton of pleats and the gasket on the surface does do a good job of sealing.

Gotta dismount them.

Pretty cool RC footage with a jump.

I like that place too.

They temporarily moved the PCV down toward the engine block for a couple years off and on but I havent been able to pinpoint what years exactly.

Craigslist and get Yakima or Thule ones?

Good idea thanks.

Got mine, thank you!

HI JAY! I too am car addict. It has been 2 days since I picked up another car and I looked at another one yesterday.

40-60

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/IMG_4152.JPG

I have a Turbo Brat. I cant wait to fix the rear end but its cherry otherwise. 104K miles, has stickers in the bed that I have never seen before telling how to stow a blown tire back there and such since it wont fit under the hood with the jack. Will be a show stopper when I am done fixing a few things for sure.

Wow, what a slacker that seems kindof, like a complete answer.

Right but even if the tensioner is different the belt interchanges just fine. Interference or not, same belt. When they change over to the heads that look just like 2.5SOHC heads then you have a major change but the 90-98's all take the same belt whether interference or not, newer tensioner or older tensioner, its the same. The complete belt and idler kit would be different of course. The one would include a tensioner bearing and the other an entire tensioner.

Dont hold me to this but I think thats who is making the current Subaru genuine filters. Ill try to check one at work to see if it says. It wouldnt surprise me after the purchase of shares of Subaru stock by Toyota a couple years ago?

I cant think of a single difference that that one month would make. I do 3-5 Subaru timing belts a week on various yr/models.

A lot of guys I have seen take the midpipe out and have a midpipe and rear section made of simply straight pipe from there. Nice and throaty that way. Get rid of that muffler and resonator in the middle. At that point who cares how long the downpipe is.

He is saying Ea81 sedans and I would agree they arent that common compared to wagon, brat or coupe here too.

For me its called defensive driving and AWD. In Iowa theres a ____load of people that drive RWD cars with nearly bald tires and no weight in the rear end that actually can drive on snow and ice and then theres the people that CANT mixed in with them and the SUV's. Accidents constantly due to the inconsistancy of speed and skills. Here in Denver there is still a lot of that here too but the stuff melts almost as fast as it shows up...sun very intense at altitude. The salt is bad for the environment, kills grass and plants along the road and leaves a huge mess combined with the sand they throw down. It costs millions to do it too. Its rediculous that people are so stubborn that they wont slow down or make their vehicle be appropriate for the weather conditions where they live and drive.

I moved to get away from the salt. True story. I got tired of having to park my Brat in the winter. Winter is my playtime and I couldnt stand seeing all the pictures of everybodys roos in the white stuff having fun and mine sitting where its safe all winter. I moved and sold my Brat 4.5 years ago and it showed up on Ebay last week...with a lot of proof of why I used to park it in the winter. Entire right rocker panel was completely gone. I had rhino lined the truck bed and steel wool and ground all rust out and then primered with rustoleum and color match paint everywhere it already rusted and it still rotted. The ones that see gravel roads on a regular basis are truly the worst. The person that bought it from me lived on a gravel road. I sold it for $2000 when it wasn't rusted out like this. It was at $1700 when the auction was pulled last I checked, probably sold locally or under the ebay table. If you have a nice brat hold onto it they are increasing in value.

Kinky!

I would just call (at a reasonable hour please) 303-522-8070.

The arrow is used for engines that require valve adjustment. (Some 95 legacy models, 96-98 legacy 2.2, Ej25DOHC(minus 96 2.5), etc) When you adjust the valves the arrows on the cams point like a clock. 1/2 a turn of the crank gets you 1/4 turn on the cam. Cyl 1 is 12:00 (TDC #1) Cyl 2 is 3:00 Cyl 3 is 6:00 Cyl 4 is 9:00 The arrow on the crank (not the notch) is helpful in verifying that you are exactly 1/2 turn of the engine. On the front two cyl's the arrow on the crank will be pointing up and back 2 pointing down. Of course that has nothing to do with your Turbo legacy with hyd lash adjusters but it does tell you what those silly arrows are for.