ShawnW

Unplug the intake connnectors by the battery and take compressed air to the pins and get all the moisture out. Otherwise whatever it is, something warmed up with the block....the snow turned to water and created a water connection electronically that wasnt there when the snow was still frozen. Could be knock sensor too, its right on top of the block and would melt fast...possibly retard/advance timing WAY far and then the engine wont restart cuz its trying to set timing where it last ran at?

Id tow it.

Sounds like he didnt get the pass side bank chain lined up perfectly to me. Possibly bent valves but not terribly likely with all 3 misfiring on the same side that almost has to mean he didnt line up the chain instead of damaging something. If he had damaged something the problem would usually be far worse sounding at idle. The engine looks like a chain driven EA82 engine with 2 extra cams and 2 extra cyl's every time I look at it. Unfortunately it is an interference engine so valve damage is always potential BUT it still sounds like 1 tooth off. Its also very possible he pinned the tensioner too fast in a vise. You need to watch it as it compresses squarely as you can bend the piston in the tensioner if you do it too quickly. Agree with above...dont let GM tech work on Subie.

It is in the distributor.

CHEEZE NUBS AINT NEVER SEEN A GIRL LIKE YOU BEFORE, CHEESE NUBS! You are so redic!

I wouldnt be able to play amongst all those trees like that but I really liked seeing one in a video. Kind felt like I was watching an awkward teenage boy next to the hottie though...he can push his luck but in the end hes just a little sad guy with nowhere to go but in circles.

If you dont think this is a cult, fine. Its at a minimum a Subaru church and you all are a bunch of flanders. When its "broken" or unavailable I get phone calls, emails, and all kinds of hilarious messages/IM's from you all wondering when your cocaine dealer will be available again so you can get your fix. Ironically most of you browse with no need to "fix" anything or maybe you need to but are too busy reading USMB. I would have about 2/3rds less friends if it wasnt for this site. Friends who want something alot of the time but friends all the same. That video needs a few old hatchbacks and brats pulling up too. Thanks to all that have crashed on my couch over the years. Pleasure meeting all of you and always fun. PM me if you are passing thru Denver.

How tall are you and are they comfortable for a long drive? Easy to get in/out of....?

Cant you guys just call each other?

75W90 works absolutely wonderful and is what it came rolling off the factory with. Available at any parts store probably only in Synthetic at some though...which is fine.

I know where the Beau is. Id agree on the 7-11 down the road being better, gas, kit kats, windshield scrubbers, paved lot, all handy and cool....speaking as the guy that has been late the last 3 times.

Get a door panel tool at an auto parts store. Should be 4-6 bux tops and saves so many clips. Looks like a U that wraps around the clips.

I think their website has a dealer locator so you can call a truck and find out where he is and go meet him at his next stop. Thats what I would do.

Dang it USMB just cost me $33.05 and made my Snap-on guy a little happier and richer.

Decorative only.

Take Hwy 6 thru the canyon and get on I-70 on the flatter side to Idaho Springs. It will totally make it up that.

I installed a rebuilt Ej22 with Delta Camshafts and it is pretty far from Wimpy in mine. Takes off HARD and never misses a beat while still getting over 22 MPG on its worst day. This is a 84 2wd full Westy. Prep? Install new fuel filter, all new heater and front radiator hoses and a new radiator. While installing the rad hoses in the front switch the inlet and oulet hoses for later.

Idaho springs sounds cool. We could go by an older guy with Brats house that I met a while back and say hi, it would make his day to see all our roos. Bonus for any Brats that would show up in his eyes.

The procedure for the DOHC is the same for the two intake cam gears (top gears) and the crank sprocket. From there set the bottom gears (exhaust gears) such that the marks on them line up with the double marks on the top gears. When that is done there will be single notches on the sides of the exhaust gears that point at 9 and 3. Drivers side is 3 and passenger 9:00. These are the marks that line up with the timing belt marks. From there you pull the tensioner pin (these usually have the blue pivoting tensioner without bolts to slide over) and rotate the drivers side intake gear slightly counterclockwise to apply tension to the belt.

I think its A/C too.

I sure do like the idea of having a button for AC instead of it activating in the far left like ours do.

Aww what a group hug post. I didnt see this answer...... "I AM ADDICTED" I have been since about 1997. I would come home and do research online for school, accomplish something, surf usmb's new posts, back to school, back to usmb......repeat over and over again. Now I do Subaru for a living so I am not here as much but I still get on almost every day, especially if my inbox is getting slammed with PMs from the local Subaru idiots that want something. JAB JAB at the locals.

$1700 shipped with the pan, oil pump, and oil filter.

For this: I had a radiator shop install a larger pipe at an angle and braze it in. I then used a Napa flex hose (coiled in the middle and rubber ends) to connect. They even make these with 2 different sized ends.

I think 92/3/4 are the best. 90 and 91 have an awful IAC valve that fails more often. 95 has the OBDII system and sometimes EGR. You can install the 96 adjustable roller rockers on any of the motors...a nice upgrade. Send those cams off to Delta to have a grind put on and these EJ22's really move the car nicely. I believe I had them do the mild "220" on my vanagon and I love it.