ShawnW

Its also entirely possible you have wire shielding touching actual internal wire.

It would seem we need an international shipping specialist on the board. Somebody that would be willing to accept payment from one member, pay the auction transaction, have the item shipped to them in _____ and then ship it to you in (this case Aussie land). There have been items in Japan and Australia that I wanted and they wouldnt ship international either.

On the steering column is a bracket that holds the ECU. You probably need to remove the trim...the piece above your shins when you sit in the drivers seat to see it.

Your opinion on this o great Historic forum members..... I have aquired a pretty nice 84 Turbo Brat. It has no rust and was rear ended hard but not in an unrepairable way so I am going to fix it. I know this isnt a 70's model but its rare and kindof a gem that I am treating with the 'treat it like its gold' motto right now. To me this thing as as precious as a GSR to some of you. It has the original 3AT tranny in it and it shifts great when warm and bad cold (classic governor clogged symptom). I am going to rebuild the governor and install it...assuming the repair fixes the problem what is your opinion on converting it to a 4spd Dual range eventually? Does that kill the "restored" feel to you or does the "upgrade" of sorts to a more reliable and fun to drive setup make it less desirable as a restored/original vehicle? There werent that many of these in 84 let alone now. Does putting alloy wheels on it make it less original if they were the 1980 special wheels (alloy wagon wheels) and not 84 specific alloys? Thanks for your time!

I would be willing to diagnose it for free if you wanted to come up to Denver....if you think it would make it up here. PM me for my phone number.

I believe Richies shop is Superior Import and repair but to be sure PM or email the user "RichieRich". Hes a long time USMB member and works in a shop run by himself and his dad a former master technician.

This isnt the switch that has anything to do with the clutch pedal being in or not for starting. Merely a switch that is moved on/off with gear selection. CCR knows this from a Subaru specialist in Denver called Strictly Automotive. Their recommendation along with the dealer stocking the part due to repeated need prompted the replacement suggestion.

Wrist pins!?!? Probably the toughest internal part in the shortblock. I have never seen one break...torn down tons of cores and watched even more.....so I would ask for the old engine parts back so you can look at what happened.

Not that I am aware of. It would be far easier to mount a fuel cell or adapt the lines.

I just moved mine from under the steering column to the glovebox this past weekend. I put the Ign relay, FP relay, ignitor, test and check connectors and the select monitor connector in there too. Fits pretty snug but its out of the weather and easy to pull codes. The amount of room under the column is so much nicer now. I know have 2 smaller rats nests of wire instead of 1 humongous one.

Killer design. I have an adapter already and I am still thinking about getting one so my pitch stopper wont look so crummy.

You didnt set your birthday on registration.

Hotlarious though. Lets bring back the jeff pics thread!

I havent mounted or wired mine yet its still in the garage.

I just pulled my wiring out and have reinstalled it in the glovebox. Its kindof a PITA to get up thru the spot behind the blower motor and into the glovebox but so far so good. I got tired of messing with all the wires running thru the kick panel on the drivers side (mine started EA81T though). Leaves me some room to run my 3rd eye harness and other wiring thru the left side too. I had to cut and splice every wire running to the intake manifold plugs but the rest of the wires were long enough or too long. I also removed the air conditioner pieces from under the hood. Lots less clutter with that gone now. If you need any help with the wiring feel free to call...and dont hesitate to buy a butane torch, solder and elec tape for the joints it is worth it. I have that same battery and inclometer from a Tercel. Where are you mounting that at?

A tow to Denver is around $200 at the most if there is somebody up here you like better. The 2.2 swap is definately worth doing.

This jerk was working on his car until 1:30AM trying to have it ready but gave up and was too tired to get out of bed in the morning.

if its an oval (carb) shaped one yes. if its an MPFI square one no.

I moved to Colorado to get away from Iowa road salt and humidity.

Sorry but I am out. Sorry for the last min cancel.

The only car in this forum that might have a VIN on it is the XT6 and maybe a few loyales in the 93 or so age. There is a spot on most of the EA82 blocks for a vin but nothing stamped there. Some of the Legacys in 90-94 have it, most dont. Most of the EJ25's have it, all of the WRX's have it...all current models have it. The only "matching numbers" old subies you might find are the ones where the dealer originally wrote the block number in the owners info packet. I Have had 2 over the years that did. Pretty rare though.

I like these meets...gives me a deadline to get something done on one of my cars so I can actually drive it to the meet.

Tows a boat and seats 5...its no baja.

Yes, it has been done your are absolutely right on the iac, tbi, and other sensors being the problem.

Busa, and others. Be careful when you jump to conclusions on an internet forum. If you have a question about what CCR charges you need to simply call them. Core charges are nothing new. CCR had a few too many people not send their core engine back...including WRX cores that are nearly impossible to replace for a reasonable amount. Trusting people to send their core back no longer is an option. The $375 core charge is not rediculous. Go pull a rebuildable core from a yard. 4 hours at the yard pulling one, plus the cost of the actual engine adds up. On top of that try to buy an ej22 that is 95 and newer or an ej25 at a yard. Not easy to find a decent one and further not under 200 dollars and certainly not cheap. On top of that it doesnt matter if you send back an EJ25 core for the 2.2 core that is exactly what they expect you are doing. CCR now does their EJ22 conversion differently than it did in the past. A vast majority of the people that did the conversion had no check engine lights or problems but a small handful couldnt get rid of the codes and after spending some considerable time on the phone with those people trying to help them they developed a more foolproof way...in fact one that made the conversion more available than before as finding a 95 Legacy intake in the yard isnt terribly easy at times. They now send a blank intake manifold casting that will accept all the ej25 components. It is a brand new casting with a fuel rail setup on it. You simply transfer your intake wiring harness, fuel lines, coilpack, sensors, etc onto the new manifold from your ej25 manifold and install your rebuilt engine. This guarantees full compatibility with the wiring and passing emissions and that you wont have annoying check engine lights coming on. The product is better than ever and mine ran great. I am thinking about doing it again on my latest find (97 OBW).