ShawnW

Almost wonder if this could be the start of a bad vac advance too. Its very rare to see a good one on these EA81 distys.

He only posts on USMB to brag about new cars he aquires and to ask people to help him move. What a dork! (with a cool wife that puts up with an old man with old roos) IMO the hatch patrol allows anybody with a willingness to wheel a Subie to "join" and joining meant showing up at a 4x4'ing meet. Was and is that way in WA state and should be here.

Certainly no expert here but dont go cheap on wire. Ask around at the places that sell the good brand welders like the millers and hobarts which kind of wire they like and try a small spool of it. If it spatters dont buy from them and try somewhere else. The one I am using (i will try my damndest to remember to note what kind) doesnt spatter hardly at all and makes it look like we use gas to weld. Very clean. Nozzle dip and spatter can are both good investments when you want pretty welds too. The dip cleans the feed as you go and cools it so it doesnt jam up and the spatter is a pre spray that helps prevent spattering.

Its not really anything special in measurements though. The blocks are almost 100 percent literally the measurement of the kit you want. 3", 3.5", etc. Just space the body up. You can go 1" less at engine and trans if you wish without problems on axles. The strut pieces you can buy from SJR in Alloy if I remember correctly. Those are the only tedious pieces. If you must have them "DIY" you could buy a set and re-sell it when you are done making it from steel but I dont see the point in that. His prices on those pieces are VERY fair and nicely made. goes by Scott IN Bellingham IIRC.

The cams and head are a matched set. If you want the cam off the other engine take the entire head with the cam caps and end caps. Otherwise you risk seizing the cam. Above mentioned was the TBelt didnt break.... It slipped even a couple teeth.... I can almost guarantee that. Make sure you friend knows what he is doing because if he doesnt at 30/hr that still adds up to a lot lost if he doesnt fix it right the first time. That is one of the more complicated Subaru engines and is not to be mistaken for its more easily fixed brother the ej22. This engine has shim on valve bucket adjusters that need proper adjustment, head gaskets that need to be torqued properly and 4 cam gears that need to be lined up EXACTLY right.

Maybe just a Limited only thing? Its pretty cheesy. I might remember to take a picture of moms OB ltd one.

You always have the option of using some nice wood and staining it and such, that would be very pretty.

Yes they will work fine. Subaru is actually out of them in STD size. Theres really no major advantage in using them over your stock pistons the rings in the 1600 are much more durable and the compression difference is very minimal.

Hi, I remember meeting you in OKC the day Mick bought the car from you. We drove it back to Iowa without a hitch. Mick took it to West Coast Subaru show #3 in Thurston county Washington with only one overheat as I recall. That car is pretty darn famous around here and for good reason. Its been rode hard and put away wet a few times over. Nice to see you back here. For a crawler machine you might want to avoid the EJ20 turbo engine and go with a non turbo so you get the power at the bottom but you already know that...At least do an Ej20 setup with a 2.5 turbo shortblock so you can have some torque and the turbo fun. If you want another Subie wagon theres a guy moving out of Cali I think up north selling a silver 84 one that looks great...esp for the $ he wants for it.

If its the cold you could probably retrofit one of those carbie shields that they put on the cars stock to the filter somehow for the winter to let it hold some heat in. To me, the key is you drove this route before no problems so you need to go back to that day. What did you change from now to back then...did the Accel go on after that day or did you change jets or timing? If nothing on the brat has changed except for the temp of the outside air and the gas at that point you just need to drain the tank and check for water. Anything you change to try to correct it isnt likely to hurt matters though either. New fuel filters are cheap and easy and really ought to be done anyway...and a new coil (get a SOA one) would be worth it in piece of mind. Cap and rotor (again SOA one) would be worth it too.

Look at Timeserts. They have a website http://www.timesert.com/ They are far better than a Helicoil as they are a solid insert and lock harder. I would not do them 3/8 as the problem with this,,,and I have seen it countless times on Engine cores that come in at work is once you go 3/8 its really hard to put a stock size anything back in its place later. The timeserts can be done stock back to 10x1.25 but also if you really screw up the hole and need to double insert it (put an insert inside another) you can by using a 12x1.25 and thread the one into the other. By going to SAE you are committing to that forever pretty much. Congrats on the used tranny! Always nice to find a good used anything these days.

Has anybody got a photo that illustrates this? I know this is a rule for 1600/1800 identification that for the most part works but maybe not on the later 1600 (84 and newer)

HEY! This is a forum. The point is to gather viewpoints from various people to obtain the answer the original poster requested. You can post what you think it is but there is no need to argue amongst yourselves the way this thread turned out. You may use the quote button but do so only when somebody is completely wrong. If they are partially wrong quote what is partially wrong and say why, in your opinion that it is wrong. I am locking this thread. There are enough answers for the question now. If you have a complaint about another user your options are to first: PM the person you have a problem politely. When they arent civil you can PM a moderator or Administrator. Thank you.

I havent heard a niner yet. And for the Jeff Beatings! Did you really have to ask?

Im out but old schoolers should discuss the Xmas tree run meet and be ready for that!

"Marks calendar and starts dreamin about which car to bring."

Nice! We will have to meet up sometime.

Pull the dash and the heater and AC boxes behind it. Pull the LF fender. From there it should be fairly easy to get the whole harness out. You need everything from the dash forward on the car. You can unplug the harness at the floorboard on the passenger side where there are a bunch of plugs that run toward the rear. Take your time and dont get frustrated there are a ton of nuts and bolts securing the dash...just take everything you can off the dash as you go. There are bolts hidden behind the blank panels where buttons and such might go sometimes even. You dont have to pull the windshield to get the dash out. Dropping the steering column will make life a lot easier.

Jeepers peepers I am in!

Jerry: That pic shows the air filter I still have. Figure all this crap out and then lets do it to mine.

Gotta stress, we swapped nearly everything from the silver donor car. The ENTIRE engine with the distributor, alternator, carb+intake which were never disturbed (lines not removed gaskets not removed, nothing). The coil from the silver car fuel filter (vapor separator one). Last night we swapped in the fuel pressure regulator from the yellow car just in case but that didnt help/hurt. Today we will drain and inspect the fuel tank. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Darn good deal there!

Update: Running OK. Brakes half bled....meaning we have SOME brakes but they are spongy. Film at 11. To go: Radiator Wire up cyclops,,,,maybe find her a different one as the one we have the door lever is broken. Finish brake bleed Put her dog food back in HER car. Steal my new wheels from parts car and crush it.

I will if you will.

I already named a turd brown subaru that in the past...its taken.