ShawnW

Pretty easy to swap, the clip thru the firewall kindof sucks but other than that not bad. Not all the same but if you take yours with you to the parts store and compare it, it won't be too had to match up. AdvanceAuto has had the right ones for me before.

Be boggled by the fact that Subaru saved a few bucks by using plastic instead of metal on something that will leak and puke out oil all over your clutch. The new ones are stamped steel and chrome in appearance. The gen before that were aluminum. There are also a bunch of plastic ones on the 90-94's...they started using them AGAIN at one point! Definately sounds like you blew a headgasket.

I wouldnt risk it on one of those H6 3.0 engines. Detonation (ping) in one of them would be a VERY expensive problem. Close to $10,000 for a new engine from Subaru. I have seen a repair bill slip from an 03 VDC owner who had their engine replaced. Like any of Subarus prior H6 engines, they are fabulous if you take care of them but will kick you right where it hurts if you dont.

Nope just a difference in the pistons themselves but compatible all the same. SOHC pistons are higher compression.

I drilled and tapped 2 so far. Both work great. The first one I used an ej22 turbo crossover pipe. I did that because there are 2 sets of places that there is enough metal for sensors...leave the originals in their holes and drill out the 2nd metal tappable areas larger area for the ea sensor. The one I did with a standard pipe was very tedious but still doable. I tapped out the smaller hole for the 2 prong ej22 sensor and the bigger hole for the ea. If you have one, the turbo ea81's have the sensor mounted in the heater hoses. Thats what I am using in my 83 EA81T 2.2 conversion. Mine, thusfar, has run real nice and cool.

Yes. Direct swap no problem.

I agree but I don't want to get your hopes up. It wouldnt be hard to swap out the turbo to rule it out if you dont have a spare lying around lemme know, you can borrow the one off my coupe for testing if you wish.

Same thing. The only difference in idlers, and its not consistant just because of a year thing is bolt length and how shallow the mount for the idler is.

Pull tensioner and re-pin in vise. Reinstall with the 2 bolts loosely. Set belts to 12:00. The cams have notches on the outer ring edge. Set them at 12:00. The arrows should point around 2:00 if you have them close. The crank pulley...the crank key should point down and theres a notch in the gear that corresponds to the oil pump where the crank angle sensor is installed. When they are all lined up right install the belt. The last pulley to go on is the one on the water pump that is cogged. Move all the slack in the belt toward that spot by taking a wrench and turning the drivers side cam such that the belt snugs up on it. Hand thread the bolt thru the cog into the water pump and then snug it all the way down. Now take a screwdriver and slide the belt tensioner over toward the passenger side of the car slightly...maybe 1/4" gap when you have it all the way over in the bolt holes and then bolt down one of the 12MM bolts so it stays put. Snug them both down. Pull the pin out of the tensioner. Then turn the drivers side cam gear slightly to load tension onto the belt. Clear everything out of the engine bay that can go flying around and try starting the car. See if it runs right before putting all the covers back on and such. Don't run it real long just enough to tell if its right. Make engine compartment pretty again and put your tools away for next time....60K from now.

Bummer! You missed a good one. Low turnout like usual but excellent area. I ended up driving the whole way down and ended up in Colo Springs. Pretty cool campground about mile #15-20 or so is "Jackson Creek Campground." Might be a fabulous place to have a weekend meet this summer?

Tom's directions pasted to the end of the post. See you all there a little later than 11 but not that bad....I have to bowl this morning for league. ------------------------- Take SanteFe rd. (Hwy 85) South, south of I-25 to the town of Sedalia. Turn right (West) on Hwy 67. (the main road through Sedalia. It has a traffic light on Hwy 85, can't miss it.) Go West on Hwy67 10-15ish miles, up the canyon. Rampart Range Rd is on the left. There is a large parking area right at this turn. We can either try to meet up here, or there are places to meet up in Sedalia as well.

Bring your own food sounds like the plan. Sorry if I missed the post that discussed food plans like potluck details, etc. Ill probably just hit Subway or similar on the way out of town.

Pull the intake use the longblock and call it good.

Likely: Upper rad hose clamp Possible: Idle Air control valve hose loose or cracked. Aquire (rent a tool at autozone) a cooling system pressure tester. Pump it to 13PSI and watch for leaks/hissing.

Too far for me. Congrats on the new yard PNW'ers! Always nice to have. We have quite a few PAP's here, 2 that are REALLY nice and 3-6 that are OK. The OK ones are nice though because they turn over really slow so if you need little nit picky stuff that you forget to grab off a rare car it might still be at those.

Every time a new model comes out this happens. With a Subaru its not looks its functionality and innovation over looks usually. The appearance will grow on you especially after you sit in it, drive it, etc. If not, fine. Buy one of the cars people were calling ugly in the past.

Security/keyless entry system is reset. You need to follow the instructions on the bright yellow sticker by your battery. Roll down your drivers side window and then try pressing the buttons on your keyless entry remote. Usually this will stop the lights.

I will publically answer your PM.... I am not sure how to make the Automatic tranny stuff work flawlessly....heck they can be a PITA in an Outback without doing a converison that includes the 4eat. Im afraid Speed sensors, neutral switches and other similar parts would be too hard to mess with for me. I will tell you that you are going to want to start with a car that shifts and drives flawless before attempting said conversion, and get any Auto trans issues solved before you yank anything out of the donor car. It would probably be easiest to do this by taking the donor car, removing the dash in pieces, making the car have a jerryrigged setup and cutting out parts as you go until the car still drives normally but lacks the 20-30 pounds of excess wiring the car doesnt need to be drivable and go from there. Engine alone is a piece of cake. I could get one back to you the same day I receive it if necessary. Prefer to communicate via email, I am REALLY busy during the day and don't have time for phone tag usually.

Very nice looking. Take nice care of it.

Your volt light works though?

VLSD's in Subarus statement above wasn't all correct either. They are a stock option on the SVX, LOTS of Outbacks from 99 on, ALL WRX's (USA models and likely elsewhere).... In short, look hard enough in the yards and you will find one. Certain cars are more likely to have one than others but until you turn a wheel and watch the other side you don't know for sure. Its always possible some guy at a shop, dealership, etc snagged the diff out of a used car or even more horrible a customers car and put an open on in its place because the customer or future owner won't ever know the difference. I have seen RX's with open diffs in the yards before here. I have seen a GL that had one retrofitted (it also had a 2.2 Swap in it). Look and look hard. In Denver the likelyhood of finding one always seems high on the rustiest car in the whole yard or the car that pull n save ballanced the entire weight of the rear of the car on the diff (they stack cars on old rims at many yards here). Dont balk at a VLSD. Lots better than nothing at all!!! If you are going wheeling consider welding the diff and getting good at pulling a rear axle for street driving.

That'd be awesome.

SWEET! TIP! As of now I can't solve the blinking light on the dash for coolant level with the setup, but I used a Mercedes Coolant bottle instead of the VW one. Benefits include being able to rent/own a coolant pressure tester without the weird VW adapter, using a cooling system refiller and ability to buy a "radiator cap" anywhere you might be. Be sure to keep as much of the 3/4" to 1/2" rubber hose that comes on the Mercedes as you can as thats really hard to aquire. Aquire the Mastercraft motors stainless steel pipe and do the reverse coolant manifold as well...smallcar.com has a nice design for the reverse manifold. If all else fails and you cant get it to burp (cooling system to bleed itself of trapped air) try removing the radiator bleeder screw and taking a turkey baster and filling the radiator thru the tiny little hole. Time consuming but it works. BUY A NEW RADIATOR. Replace your head gaskets and have your heads decked perfectly flat...or get a rebuilt engine. Replace water pump and thermostat with OEM/Genuine parts. Dont trust the stock temp gauge. Put a VDO remote electronic sender one in..install into the water crossover pipe (reversed) where the old Subie sender was. Mount gauge in a promenant place and get used to watching it like a hawk. Youre lucky in one big area...youre starting with a Van that runs and drives so you can check over everything while its 100 percent german engineered. That is all for now of my unasked for Vanaroo knowledge.

Having the same dielema here with a Vanaroo or an 83 Wagon. Lets both be thankful that we have options. Seems kindof rude to even mention we are having trouble deciding. The 83 I DONT want to get muddy and thrash, and I don't want the temptation or pressure to either. Better fuel econ on the one but not by much and the lesser of 2 gas mileages would give me a place to crash along the way and at the show...without being on the ground.