Tiny Clark

I'll go on record once again to say hell-of-a-good idea, but a damn bad place to put the switch.

A pulley removal tool. I used one with two jaws, worked fine.

That's why I said to take it apart and adjust the nut by the handle. It'll push that bar down a little more

If you really need to know, tap into the fan wires and hook a bulb them. Run the wires under the back of the hood and leave the bulb clamped down by a one of your wiper arms so you can see it while driving. If the bulb is on, the fan is on. Tiny P.S. Are you from Missouri?

This is what I did, after pulling the rear panel off, and removing the pull handle to clean and lube it up. You'll notice if you push the rod down toward the latch, it will allow the mechanism to work. So, I adjusted the arm nut two turns. The arm nut is at the handle end, and it pops out of the white plastic on the handle. Works fine now. I did grease up everything else while I was in there as well.

The low fuel light is usually accurate, since it doesn't rely on the float movement. Please don't tell me Subaru uses the float for the light... Either fill up when your guage gets to E, or carry a jug of gas with you and find out what the guage reads when it runs out.

Damn, I'm glad I don't have tires and wheels like some of you have. I may have to inflate the tires once every 3-4 months. I do start at 32 PSI though.

Don't they sell the repair stuff at stores like autozone to fix tail lights? I know they used to carry the red and orange colors. Doesn't seem like you are real worried about vanity, so you could always take the light off, clean it real good, and fill the void with 5 minute clear epoxy.

I don't think vapor lock is a problem on F.I. autos, what with the pressure the fuel system is under. Do you mean they wouldn't crank, or they were cranking and wouldn't fire?

Newer subies use ATF for the steering fluid. If yours was orange, it's hard to say what the heck was in it, or got into it for that matter. Maybe condensation? You may never find out...

If you do it with a friend, so to speak, both autos benefit form the draft.

If you have ABS, the brake system draws more current than just for the bulbs. "The anti-lock brake system tests itself every time the vehicle is started and every time the brakes are applied. The system evaluates its own signals. If a defect is detected, the system then turns off, leaving normal braking unaffected." My lights get dim at idle as well. Tap your RPM's up a bit to about 2 grand and see if you notice a difference. If so, you may have a problem.

This seems to be a problem like the head gaskets isssue. I had one go out with around 85K on mine, which to me is premature. Maybe the metal ring on the seal wasn't properly treated for corrosion.

Easy to pinpoint noise with a length of rubber hose to the ear, then zero in on it. I have an old stethoscope I use.

You don't clean CD's/DVD's by wiping them in a circular motion. You wipe across the diameter. That way, if you scratch it, it won't affect playability.

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Service%20Tips/compression_ring_seating.htm I think that many, many years ago, rings were not taper faced, but straight. This would have required driving for a few thousand miles to ensure the rings would properly seat against the side of the cylinder wall.

Buy the valve, they are most excellent. Quit what if'ing the frikin' thing to death. What if your oil pan got hit by lightning while you were racing up Pike's peak? What if a train track rail suddenly popped up off the roadway and knocked off the valve? What if, What if, What if...

From what I know, the crank could be 180 out. You have to make sure the that the timing mark on the crank is at TDC, #1 up on compression stroke. The cams won't go 180 out. Is it possible you disconnected/damaged the crank or cam sensors? Look to make sure.

Does the key unlock them all?

It's easy enough to remove the door panel and have a peek inside at all the linkage. It's pretty easy to check for linkage problems once you have it opened up.

Sorry, I could only find a schematic I had for the rear wiper, which shows it having a relay. I would imagine that the front system has a relay as well, since the small contacts in the wiper switch can't handle that kind of current.

I only rotate 'em when I switch between winter and summer tires. The ones that were in the front last winter go in back this winter; the same for the summer set. Of course, we only run up about 15K miles a year.Tiny

If you rotate diagonally, won't the tire be spinning in the opposite direction? Usually, front to rear is good, as most often, front tires wear faster. I believe the tires are only directional to properly direct water out of the grooves. Tiny

If you have excellent cabin heat, it's my assumption that the thermostat is OK.

After ripping it apart, snoutmeat is the winner. I tried to clean and lube the handle, but it still wouldn't always seat itself back to the original postion. So, I adjusted the arm nut two turns. The arm nut is at the handle end, and it pops out of the white plastic on the handle. Works fine now. I did grease up everything else while I was in there as well. Thanks, AND MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!! SEASONS GREETINGS to those that may be offended by the word Christmas, not that I particularly give a crap if you were.