MorganM

I bet my local parts manager drives a Nissan There isnt a single Subaru ONLY dealership in the metro area. They are all Nissan\Cadillac\Chevy\Buick\KIA\and that jap company... what was it again? Oh ya.. Subaru we sell some of them things too.

Just got my decals the other day. Most impressive !_! Thx McBrat

Hah dont exploit him 'cuz you KNOW he's going to need a lot of parts from Napa for this job!

Get it upto full running temp and smell the exhuast. Can you smell burnt coolant? If you dont know what it smeels like drip a few drops onto a hot part of your engine (like the block or heads) and smell it as it cooks off. It's a very distinct nasty oder. See any white smoke out the tail pipe? Sure you had the coolant system 'burped' so there was no air left? A lot of times when you drain the coolant system air gets trapped when you refill it. Once the air works out you have to add more coolant. Best to try and purge all air as you fill it up. Then top it off after you get it upto temp next time.

I've run cherry bombs and thunderbolt style glass packs. cherry bombs are ghetto compared to the thunderbolts. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/tbolt1.htm This link shows how the core is different. The more rugid construction and that rifled/spiral louver core makes all the difference. Cherrybombs are poorly constructured with thinner metal and the core design took no thought what so ever. I thought the glass pack I run was a Dynomax Thrush glass pack but it's not. I found a PDF document on Dynomax's website. http://www.dynomax.com/documents/thrushglass.pdf It has the same wussy core as the cherry bombs. The glass pack I have on clearly has the thunderbolt core but they are made in AK, USA while my muffler says "made in canada" on it. Anyway long story short go with the thunderbolt core if you can find it I was not impressed with cherry bombs at all. They dented really easy and sounded kinda cheesy.

Well since the rear seat belts rusted and ripped out and all the rear seats are removed I'm not to worried about passangers. There is even stickers in japaneese/english that say no passangers allowed in 'cargo area'. This is strictly my ORV. Only room for a spotter Not to worried about it's performance. I'm not increasing the distance from the tank and it's only being raised inches from its old location. There are holes in the unibody right there to allow the lines to come right up and hook it up directly above where it was. There must be some confusing in what I said. It's not going under the hood. The fuel fitler is there right now. The pump is just going directly above where it is stock.

Yep its definatly a diaphragm on the end there. Replacable.. exaclty what I was hoping to hear I thought the fuel pressure regulator was up on the throttle body of my SPFI intake mani? Are there two then? Also I found no sign of a rear fuel filter. Where EXACLTY would this be on a '88 GL EA82 ? I have one up under the hood I've replaced. Thanks for looking in your FSM

That is SO custom

I assume you want to keep it Subaru or you would be talking about budget engine + drivetrian swaps already I'd ditch that AT for sure. Might want a 4speed MT? Wont need 5th on the strip but I dont know what tranny has the best gear ratios. Research that up first and get the one best for acceleration. Plenty of ppl with FSMs on here to look stuff up Drop more weight. I know you already removed a lot of stuff but now its time to start cutting. I forget where I read this and it wasnt even that persons idea but I still love it... everytime you drive the car leave with a piece off of it !_! Suspension and tires are important too; not just the engine. Stiff suspension will keep them tires on the ground better. Wider tires will give you more grip. What do YOU feel the problem is? Pure lack of power? Power isnt utilized? Cant keep tire traction? All of those can be addressed to improve your times. Junkyard upgrades are where its at for the budget aspect. Getting what parts you can for cheap and doing the work/custom yourself will keep costs way down.

a 12" thrush glass pack would fit NICE

Let me be the first to say you are SICK (wait I'm prolly not the first) I love the idea, RAGE IT! I think you will get it done in time... do YOU? 'Cuz thats all that matters !_!

Don't belive the hype It always seems better on the other side.

That looks salvagable from the pics I saw. Nothing a few hundred bucks at a machine shop cant fix right up

Yeah I have mine down on the glove box lid and I hear you... not enough leg room for passangers. It's also annoying becuase I have to lean down and over to surf channels which I cant always do in traffic. I like your idea of mounting it up in there. Do you find you still have to lean and reach the console to change channels or squelch? I'm pretty interested in how MilesFox mounted stuff to his roof. Idealy I think I'd like it up there. Just like in the big rigs Nice and easy to just reach right up by your head to use the CB. Miles if you read this pls post how you mounted the Roof of Boom :cool: Thx U

After some seriouse offroading last weekend my fuel pump bracket ripped off the unibody/subframe. I noticed it dangelying freely by the wires and hoses. Good thing it was still working! It held on there for the 2 hour drive home. I didnt notice it dangeling there untill after some light wheeling the next day. It's obviously time to do something about it. Leaving it where it is will not work for me. I'll simply rip it off again the next time I hit some deep stuff. So last night I started relocating it inside the cabin. I pulled the pump off and started wiping off rust, dirt, and such. At one end is the fitting for the main line out of the gas tank. The other end has a longer fitting. There is some funny spring loaded thing at this end. Is this a pressure regulator or something? I know its spring loaded becuase when i 'wiped' away some rust half of the little deal crumbled showing the inside. What is this thing? Thx !_!

Get the rear LSD!

That's awsome !_!

The light is telling you BOOST IT HARDER

Glad to hear justice was served. The nerve of some people to break your stuff and just shrug it off.

You explained it perfectly. I had the same problem as I didnt have the special tool either. Get the cam gears on as well as you can. Put the belts on. Since you arent going to start the engine like this its okay the cam gears are not at 18 foot lbs Now you can hold the belts while you torque down the cam gear bolts.

next time get a pic of you lighting a cigerette off of it

Get them as tight as you can. PUt the belts on properly. Then you can hold the belts as you tighten it down and easily get 18 ft.lbs. Or if you are handy with metal cutting and welding you could just make the elite cam gear hodler tool. Basicly its just a Y of metal with 2 dowls at each arm in the Y. The dowls fit into 2 of the holes on the gear.

I got a pump and bracket with hardware just sitting here. Wanna find out?

on a crazy island way down under

Might give that 'high milage' oil a shot? Suposidly it does some black magik on your cylinders, rings, guides, etc and helps seal stuff up. Sounds a little fishy to me since the way I belive they are achieving this is simply coating everything in a thick skin of pooh. Also had a guy swear buy it on his old Toyota 22R that blew oil sooooooooo.... Just an idea