MorganM

That really confuses me. All the Loyale's Ive sat in were pretty bare bones. Why didnt Subaru push the GL and GL10 hard untill the Legacy L came out? Seems funny they would end the GLs, send over boat loads of crap boxes from 89 to what 93?, and then go back to a more luxury oriented Legacy L model. Maybe the GL was just too much bang for your buck so they wanted ppl to buy more expensive Legacy models? Meditate on this, I will...

I saw one of these H6.3.0L wagons at my local over priced south metro suburb grocery store and noticed a VDC badge on the front fender. What is VDC ?_? Thx U !_!

44 PSI seems pretty high for any regular passanger car radial tire I've seen. All the one's I've had were between 30 and 35 PSI for MAX rating on the tire. Were these some fancy tires on that minivan or something?

2003 Ford Escape 4-DR. 4x2 2003 Ford Escape 4-DR. 4x4 (out of 5 stars) They were not tested in 04 according to this chart? http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/NCAP/Cars/2003SUVs.html

Air up your tires to the max and I bet you could knock off a % point Er here I found another link you dont have to log into http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/ncap/ Thx !_!

Is there any particular model that always came with the VLSD in these early Legacy / SVX / Impreza platforms? I see a lot of Legacys come through local yards now. So far no rear VLSD but I havent been checking them ALL either. Sorry if this hijacks the thread but it's kinda relavent. What is the difference in those first gens that had "4WD" badges and the ones that had "AWD" badges? Aren't they all AWD ? Thx !_!

They are indeed Trixie little cars. I call mine the poopenwagen for obviouse reasons. I would capitalize the name but it is not worthy of being classified as a proper noun.

Aren't they ALL sport editions? Since you are from Slippery Rock what fun traction mods are in store for your worlds first sport utility wagon?

It's the down hill slide now. 3 weeks should be plenty for just steering, brakes and quality assurance testing (read: offroad !_! )

Ranger is on point here

I seen it done with 2 sedans. The thing was on eBay for a while. Realy a sick and twisted machine. I would expect it to end up at a carnival Time to bust out the big cutting discs, welder, and your thinking cap:drunk:

Thats a MUCH better idea Forget the adapter plate it's swap'n time!

With the engine off and cooled down a bit you can wiggle the prop shaft. Pull off the intake hose that goes to the intake side of your turbo charger. Stick your finger down the aluminum intake housing on the turbo and in the middle you will feel the end of the prop shaft for the turbo props. Giver her a wiggle wiggle !_! If its solid then your bearings are not shot. Also look for oil in there. Might be coming from the bearings. In some really bad cases I've seen where the turbo prop shaft is so loose that the prop rubs on the housing shaving off the prop and housing. Others I've seen just hosed and glazed with oil. Yet a minority of them show no oil leaking and the shaft is solid. Get a real boost guage installed. That will tell you if you are atleast boosting and by how much. If you are boosting its working I'm sure lots more suggestions will follow from more learned turbo folk so Ill just stop here

The biggest difference is the number of axles youll break per year

I thought I had a Dynomax Thrush glasspack on my Subaru. I have recently discoverd it is not a Trush but more similar to a Thunder Bolt glasspack. The Dynomax Thrush is the same thing as a cherry bomb. On their website I saw a PDF document that illustrated the design... identical to a cherry bomb. Dirt cheap glass pack in every aspect. They are loud but not bad. You will not get pulled over for running them. The Thunder Bolt is better constructed and the core design was actually thought about. I'm far more happy with this one than the cherry bombs. Again quite loud but not too loud. The longer they are the more sound they will dampen. So if you just want a little rumble get the 3 footers. If you wanna sound like a Harely get the 1 footers.

You run what pressure the TIRE says. The pressure you run depends on the performance you are searching fore. MAX pressure the tire will yield better gas milage and less wear (especially the side walls). Running lower than max will average gas milage, a more 'soft' ride and should wear evenly. Airing them way down will give you maximum traction, very poor gas milage, and a lot more wear on the tire. He prolly airs them to the max suggested by the tire cuz he does a lot of freeway and in town driving. This is fine and I'm sure he enjoys it. Running what the car manufacture suggests usually is an even balance. Good milage, smooth ride, average wear on the tire are what they are aiming for. In the case of offroading you air down. This gives you excellent traction at the expense of the tire. When you are done you air back up and head home

LOL ... been there man.

Quit thinking big silly V8s Turbos are teh win!!11 =^.^=

Sounds like you didnt run into any problems either? I need a rust free shell

So basicly what you are trying to say is you need to go to a junkyard and grab an old dist. from a carb model Subaru engine. Grab a few becuase there are LOTS of flavors

Is this a hydrolic clutch turbo 5MT ? Sounds like you are knee deep in Subaru Corky is right about the extra parts LOL I have boxes of metric hardware now

Users can submit things to the USRM and Auto Tech themselves. MPVSubaru87 you should copy and paste it in

Lifting it up with a body lift kit is fairly easy. BYB 3" and Scoripoin 2" lifts are the way to go. It was all designed to bolt right into your vehicle. Figuring out exacly where/how everything fits is the toughest part. The directions are more like a list of hints, but that is the fun part right? Unless you have rusty bolts; man those can be the WORST If you buy one of the pre-made lift kits. I would bet you could have it done between 16 - 20 hours of labor. This would even give you time for problems. A rust free vehicle would shave hours off !_! Lift that BRAT UP

Seems kinda pointless to me. Whatever slight gain you get from the EJ tranny is going to be negated by the extra weight of the EJ tranny. Also the heavier parts inside. I bet the EJ trans takes more HP to operate than the EA trans. Besides gearing what other advantages are there?

I intercepted yours so I could have more