MorganM

Got'er'dun Big vice grips on 17mm nut, needle nose vice grips on threaded cylinder that's behind 17mm nut, and worked off the 17mm nut. The threaded cylinder the 17mm nut is on encompasses the main drive shaft. This threaded cylinder ended up twisting apart becuase the 17mm nut was rust-welded to it so badly. I think it's still salvage able however as that's the only part that broke Thanks for the tip Miles; it really helped getting behind the nut and pushing toward me to bust it out. Had it not been so rusted it would have just unscrewed!

Yeah had a deep socket on it at first. Then tried the wrench but that guard is in teh way, Then got the vice grips on it. Can't really get a screw driver under it due to that silly guard thats below teh 17mm nut; kinda comes up and lips around the edge of the nut Might just apply the BFH to it if I cant get it out as you describe.

It was removed then

EA81 = two filters EA82 = one filter

That's why I rerouted my PCV system and pluged the PCV hole in the intake manifold with a bolt. While everything below the fuel injector does get washed clean with fuel that crap is still being shot down through there and ultimatly down along your valves and into the combustion chamber. Big deal? Not really; but I dont like it anyway

Mine was plumbed like so on an EA82 SPFI: Tank -> fuel line -> pump -> lines upto engine bay -> filter -> throttle body -> FPR -> return to tank Not sure how carb'd models are plumbed if they are any different.

So I push on the shaft as I turn the 17mm nut. That's a tall order There is some stupid metal guard that comes up and around th 17mm nut so a box end wrench wont fit in. I could sneak in the tips of my big vice grips and I pulled really hard as I turned it. Maybe if I pulled on the motor from behnid as I turn it? Spose I'll give it another go before the flat bed shows up to haul it off.

I shoved a bolt that was slightly larger OD than the ID of the fuel line. Then put the hose clamp on to hold it tight. Let what little fuel spill evaporate then went to wiring up the pump.

I bought the steel, 1/2" grade 8 bolts, l and drew up the plans. Archemitis chopped and welded it all up out of his shopt; Straight Custom Send him a PM if you want to talk to him about getting some built.

hah I wasn't even offroading. Apparently its bad to drive in unplowed parking lots around here

I know this is a joke becuase Texans are all about welding some custom stuff up and rage'n it on cars!

The idle air control valve? Front and center on throttle body. Has a vacume hose going to it off the main snrokel.

Can't get the bugger off. Wiper arm is off. There is another 17mm bolt below that on the main drive shaft. It spins freely on the shaft as I turn it; does not come loose. Shaft is not turning as I turn this 17mm nut. Is this pressed on or something? Gear puller? Trying to get his last part of the parts car before the junkyard takes it away! Dropping it on the floor from the jack stands with the hi-lift jack was.... interesting :-p

Got a welder, chop saw, and drill press?

Looking at the engine, look right and up, behind the strut tower near the wiper blade motor.

On the other hand it is a rally toy car... if you have the time, money, and know how to swap engines/drivetrains... rage it

Hah just found a pic of my home made 'one man' Master Cylinder bleeders. Just some scrap hardline with male fittings and rubber hose slipped onto the hardline.

I've tried just about every method. Speed Bleeders gave me the best results. Front speed bleeders were a direct replacement of my OEM bleeders. The ghetto one's I rigged up for the rear are still holding on after much hard offroading. They are clamped onto the OEM bleeder in the rear calipers. I simply left them on with the OEM bleeder shut. Haven't fallen off yet Heat could be the biggest diffeerence here. If they were super heated, as brake parts tend to do at high speed , I 'spose they could malfunction. Mine never really see high speed action

"Cherokee on pump four is ready..." That's what came over the inter-com at a gas station on my way to the Castana offroad event.

I wish! Everyone just thinks mine is a Cherokee.... damn wagons :-p

These only come equiped on fuel injected or feed back carb engines. It's a sensor that screws into your catalytic converter. On the old Subarus it shoud just have a single wire down to it; my Legacy was a 3 wire one (signal, preheater, ground). It's about the size of a 16mm deep socket. Your Forester has two I think; one before and one after the cat.

A seperate system would be spiffy. Just run your extra accessories off the second alt + battery. Leave the primary alt + battery to run everything it was originally intended to. Ross; how would you wire them to double your amps but maintain 12 volts Would that be in series or parallel? I'm not that hip to the electrical scene

I got a bridge for sale out in CA. Interested?

Did you end up swaping master cylinders?

You should still be able to go 80mph with 27" ATs. I can go 75-80mph with 29"s.