MorganM

Bull; speed bleeders rule. I've had great luck with them.

Damn that sucks it wont fit on =( Different spline count on the steering colum shaft where the wheel slips on? Matterd to me since I couldnt access said screws with the tools I had at the time with out rotoating the wheel to give me access

Yeah! I love those L shaped ones. I couldnt get the last one off this XT6 cuz I couldnt unlock the steering wheel. Also note the 'satalites' with al the keen buttons and such come off pretty easily once you get the wheel off. Just a few bolts clamp it down to the steering colum and a couple plugs unplug from below. Then they slide right off. Rage it !_!

Bump is when you 'bump' a topic back to the top of the page by replying to it for the soul reason to bring it back to the top. Pretty sure it will swap right on; rage it! Are you looking at the A style one or the L style one? Bot hare freak'n sweet!

Why does this smell like a bad april fools joke

The stock Subaru electric auxillary fan really dont draw enough amps to fry a good switch. I had a relay all wired in properly with the toggle switch up in the cabin. The relay broke off where it was mounted and I had used all crimp on connectors to wire the whole ciruct. Now I've ripped all that junk out, wired just battery <-> switch <-> fan all soldierd together; less wires, less fuss and havent fried a switch yet. Rooinater; if you do decide to replace the thermoswitch; go easy on it during removal. Those side tanks are pretty wussy. Seen many a radiator at the junkyard JB Welded right there after a botched thermoswitch replacment. Good luck!

Might shoot Archemitis a PM and ask. He had a tough time finding a few of the really long bolts for his 4" lift kit. Eventually found everything he needed.

Yes you can weld the front diff. Rough on the street though!

As in washing them in fuel from running too rich. =================================== A cheaper fuel pump upgrade is documented here in the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=92 Glad you got it up and running 4WDFrenzy

Sounds like an outer CV joint going out on you. Take it easy on the turns and it will last you a while. Crawl up under there and look at the rubber flexy boot that surrounds the joint. Might have torn a boot and now some bad mojo has got up in there. Not a major deal but should be serviced.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=92 This article should get you squared away. Alternative part with part # provided and other details.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=60 Good article; upgrade to speed bleeders and bleed it in the proper cross directional pattern. If that dont fix it then you have a defective part somewhere most likely stated above by Mikie.

Damn that sux; I'll edit the thread and just post the comments then. Thanks for the heads up.

I keep a hacksaw with me. Bucksaw is nice to have if I'm cutting trails on private land.

Awsome, thanks a lot Ross.

lies; everyone knows red is faster than white; and the only thing faster than those two is racing orange

Here's some more comments on this from people who offroad vehicles with air bags: http://mn-jeep.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1595 ^-- good idea!

Where is "over here" ? As in which parts vendor can I go to and bring this part # with and get the proper parts? Thanks for the info, this is great stuff!

My hood is turbo red; much faster :-p

No slack'n! I'm hold'n ya to it! You're giving me a ride there & back this time right?

Never heard of an air bag deploying while offroad. Lots of Jeep Cherokees are out there on the trials. Some of the stuff they do here in MN is simply amazing and the obsticals they hit are off the hook. Plenty of roll overs and still no deployed bags Avoid running head on into a tree or rock

What you ask is rather counter-intuitive. Good offroad tires, 13" rims, and not a lot of money. One of the 3 is going to have to give and there in is your compromise. As Dog noted above you have some choices. Get some good M+S rated tires for your 13". Upgrade to 14" or 15" Peugoet rims and have a real selection of tires at your fingertips. Those are two cheap choices.

Really depends on if I'm running light or trail ready Running Light: OEM Subaru tool pouch with all even numberd wrenches, cresent wrench, goose neck 10mm/11mm combo, plyers, flat and phillips screw drivers, and OEM lug nut wrench. Also onboard would be one jug of coolant, one quart of oil, PB Blaster, a set of warm coveralls (MN is cold!), moving blanket, fire extinquisher, full size spare, and a snatch strap (hook less tow strap!). Trail Ready: Full tool box with every tool I need to rebuild a Subaru. All those tools fit in one 3 tray with storage top tool box and one little box for the BFH, hack saw, needle stethsicope, cheater bar, and the 1" chisel. Again coolant, oil, PB Blaster, coveralls, moving blanket, fire extinguisher, are all included. In addition to that would be fully recovery gear; snatch strap, come-a-long, high lift jack, 6ton clevis on each bumper, full size spare tire, and some heavy duty leather gloves. Lets not forget spare parts; front and rear axle, timing belts, timing belt pullies, optical dizzy, MAF, TPS, some 12v switches, ign. coil, one plug wire, super duper heavy duty farm implement zip ties, little bit of spare wire and crimp on connectors and all of which fits in one box that can keep it all together in that's just as long as a front EA82 axle and about half as wide. Oh forgot about electrical tools; keep them in their own tiny tool box that holds a cimper/cutter/stripper tool, special needle nose plyers, typical replacment fuses, electrical tape, couple tiny head screw drivers of both flavors, and a small digital multi meter. Compound Trail Ready with Camping Gear.... I need a six cylinder :-p

I'm no turbo expert but I've pulled apart many turbos and turbo engines to sell parts. Stick your finger down into the turbo and wiggle the turbine prop shaft. Significant play in the prop shaft means the bearings are worn. When the bearings wear the seals are usually going at the same time; prolly cuasing the worn bearings in the first place. The bearings are fed oil from your engine; and that's where the oil is coming from inside the compressor housing. To repair it would mean a rebuild of the turbo core or swap in a turbo thats not as worn out.

Happen to have a part number or how we can locate these properly sized sealed bearings? I'm all about sealed bearings