MorganM

As Craven noted you not only have to disconnect the vacume advance line but plug it also. It should be set to 8deg Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). To advance it you would go from say 8deg BTDC to 10deg BTDC. To retard it you would go from 10deg BTDC down to 8deg BTDC.

Let's make sure we are all on the same page here.... what engine? Carb or EFI? I know you said vacume advance (carb engine) but you also said you set it to 20degrees BTDC and thats what the SPFI engine should be set to not the carb. Carb is suposed to be set to 8degrees BTDC. There are lots of timing marks on the flywheel. What I did to help is roll the engine over by hand to 20 degrees BTDC (or 8 respectively to which engine you have) and use a white crayon to mark the line. That white shows up GREAT under the strobe light from the timing light. Oh and do it yourself this time Its really easy. Unhook vacume advance for carb engine OR plug in green connectors up by fuel filter for SPFI engine. Hook up + and - cables properly to battery. Hook up wire to plug wire #1. Loosen 2 bolts at distributor so you can twist the dist by hand. Now with the engine running point the strobe light at your flywheel. Note what it's set to now; twist dist. Clock Wise to Advance timing, Counter Clock Wise to Retard timing. Once you got it where you want it tighten the bolts down WITHOUT moving the dist or you will accidently adjust timing.

I have about 150 hours into prep, primer, sanding and painting on Poopenvagen. All for it to turn out with an orange peal texture finish. I hope you have more experience than I do with using real paints and paint guns or you will be more dissapointed than I was. I used Dupont enamle semigloss black. Nothing fancy really. Can't remember which primer I used; just a base grey and again nothing fancy. It was all quality stuff just not as fancy of stuff you are looking at. Local automotive paint supplier had it all on hand. Still spent well over $300 in paint, sealer/hardner, primer, sand paper, etc. At the same time I bought a Champell Hausfield 5hp 35gal air compressor so that was another $350 bucks. The paint gun I got with the compressor was complete crap; ended up using a friends sweet high pressure low volume gun that he uses on all his projects. The paint gun makes a HUGE difference in how it sprays on and flows on the surface; dont scrimp on the gun (I would recomend the opposite of what I used and get a low pressure high volume gun; uses less paint, less air, and better performance). I couldnt even get my gun to shoot primer well; his gun shot primer and the paint flawlessly. How I got the orange peal tecture was I waited too long between coats, the last coat got 'tacky' and the final coat wouldn't 'flow' properly... 'twas a sad day in Poopenvagen's history Once you add the other chemicals to the paint you'd be supprised how far it goes. I had 2 quarts and had about a half can left over. You might use a full 2 quarts since you have to paint the whole bed; where as on the wagon I painted strictly the exterior. Drive the Brat to the paint supplier when you are buying the stuff and then you can ask "hey how much do you think I'll need to hose that down?" They will have a better idea of how much you will require. Buy little quart cans and that way you can return any unopend ones left over if you buy too much. For sanding I tried dry sanding with dual action air sander, block, and electric. I found it to be very dirty, harsh on the lungs (even with cheap masks) and used WAY too much sand paper. Switched to wet sanding and had much greater success. Sanding paper lasted 5x's longer, no need for a mask, and it sure was nice to have a hose constantly running when doing this in the dead of summer (note the 100+ hours of sanding? had a nice tan when I was done!) Here's how the time broke down: 90% sanding, priming, sanding, priming, sanding.... "prep work" 5% taping off 5% painting It's all in the prep work too. Once you start laying down that paint you see EVERY single little mistake you missed sanding. It also amplifies any mistake in the primed surface (hence why it was missed in the first place; now you can see it easily!) I'd rather build another engine than paint another car; good luck!

Shall we move to a new thread from Interest to Planning? Sounds like a lot of people's attendance relies heavily on the date and location.

Hey we had to make sure it worked right? Purely for testing purposes! I need MTs =============== OK back on topic here.... So that one you bought on eBay is just a remaned Subie alt that puts out more juice? Or am I reading that wrong? Thx

XT6 isn't quite bolt on. Gotta swap pullies and space it out properly so the V belt doesnt get thrown off. There is also the GM 100 amp conversion. Dual alts wouldnt be too hard if you take out the AC pump, fab up the brackets to bolt a standard one on and wire it in. Some options to consider

Cooling! Make sure fan comes on properly as the thermoswitch for the fans tends to go bad. Ensure the radiator is in good shape; not turning green or missing any fins. As WJM stated keep the coolant fresh and a back flush is a good idea. Water pump is key; grab the clutch fan and see if there is any play in the shaft to the pump. Make sure the shaft spins freely (slip off the belt to check that) Also don't assume the previouse owner did anything and do it all. Oil change first thing. Quality filter (Purelator is the same as an OEM Subaru filter and they got a pureONE for a premium model) some quality oil and keep a spare quart handy Glad to see you already did some maintanace. Also swap out the fuel filter. New gear lube in the tranny would be good too. PCV valve there behind the intake manifold. Air filter too for sure! Anything else I missed guys? Letem know! Welcome to the USMB

Buddy does exhuast? Throw the whole system away and have him rage it! Heads to tail pipe; straight custom all the way. Have him do a Y pipe setup so you promote scavaging. With the boxer 4cyl you definatly want the Y pipe or performance will suffer. See what he thinks about an X pipe even; have yet to see a Subaru with one of them!

This had NOTHING to do with EFI and more to do with you submerging your dang engine in water too deep! Don't blame your bone head move on EFI please. I've seen plenty of carbed engines hydrolocked from sucking in water due to water fording in something that was way too deep for their setup. The OEM snorkel on an EA82 SPFI engine can easily be rerouted with the MAF to a higher position. Again that has nothing to do with the EFI engine and everything to do with how you set it up.

Yeah, also looks like you ued a sawzall when you are done Also have to contend with that sharp bured edge the sawzall will leave behind.

No vacume advance on your distributor; it's an optical distruibutor. There is a cheaper alternative to the Subaru fuel pump. I've just submited a USRM article describing how to install it and what part # it is. Hopefully that will get approved soon. Basicly its napa part #2p74028 and you can make it work on your Loyale with minimal modifications. Price ranges from $45 to $75 but it beats $255 for a new Subaru one. Is your Check Engine Light on by chance? That would shed some light on the situation

certainly could be the pump on the fritz. more likely the wires there at the pump. the whole thing is very prone to the elements and rust down there behind the rear main crossmember on the passangers side. the wires going upto it are pretty wussy and the teriminals on the pump are equally wussy. could be jiggeling loose at the teriminals on the pump. mine was so rusty when it finally died that parts of it disinegrated in my hand from just inspecting it! good luck.

What cought my attention is the timing is the same at 700 rpm, 1200 rpm, green connectors plugged in or not. Should be advancing with the green plugs undone. With the green connectors unplugged, put the timing light on, and rev the engine there at the TB. You should see the timing advance there at the flywheel under the light. If it just stays at 20 you might be onto something! Got a dizzy to swap in and see if that's the problem? Oh also check the wiring there from the dizzy upto the harness. Make sure it didnt get kinked real bad or severd somewhere.

or one of t he connections is severd to the signal light assembly. try the bulbs first though!

Yep, gotta keep that air flowing through the MAF Also making a whole lot of vacume leakage there if you take the snorkel off the MAF. Reason for looking down TB while engine is running?

Naw, just one up under the hood on your Loyale.

Just buy a Bobcat and put the tread conversion on the tires. Much easier and pretty much go anywhere you point it Get stuck? Time to work the bucket!

Good call on the fuel pump. Again start with an inspection of the wires. Could be wiggeling and loosing connection randomly. Might just be on its way out

I'd have to agree; its not gonna be the death of your Subaru if it has lifter ticking. Ticking = minor nuisance that can be dealt with or you can live with it. Knock = usually means the death of thy Subaru is eminent. Big differences

My guesses would be Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) and/or Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) With the MAF the engine is getting weid signals (or signal is dropping totally) on how much air is entering the system and therefore it sends improper amount of fuel. Same with TPS, engine thinks the throttle is at a certain point, then signal drops and computer tries to compensate. I'd almost look for a loose wire or connector at these devices. Might be wiggeling and when it does you are getting the symtoms judgeing by how random it appears. Good luck!

LOL great for those chumps who like to tailgate :cool:

I could prolly do Firestone this FRI night. 8-10 is usually when most ppl are there anyway. If the weather is tolerable and nothing comes up I'll plan on being there. Maybe Arch will quit slacking and get his tires on!

Prolly a good reason it was abandond.... was there a pool of coolant and/or oil under it? :-p Nothing is free....

You'd prolly reconsider how rusty yours seems to be and its capability after looking under mine From the sound of it your Subaru is still strong where it counts; and so is mine. It will be fine offroad

Look'n good man up on them big tires and 'yota rims You up for a run to Gilbert ORV park this April? Would be nice having more than 2 Subarus there. We'd be turnin some heads with a whole herd of them up there! Those tires do sap some power. Prolly the carb engine I can still take off fine in 2WD with the SPFI. Even in 4Hi I really dont even notice the big tires. 4Lo its like they dont exist!