MorganM

Not far fetched at all. I've done lots of hill climbs I couldn't make the first or second try and had to back down for another run. Third time is the charm though! It's really fun backing down hill climbs that have turns and trees in them

Does their quotes include new studs and studs pressed in? Every machine shop I've had work done at gave me a quote and they were consistantly %15 to %20 higher than their quote when I was billed.

Seperate systems. Ebrake is a cable from that lever there in between the seats down to your front calipers. This allows you to operate the front brakes even if you have zero hydrolic pressure when you try to operate the normal brake pedal. Hill holder is a little device there below your Master Cylinder on the "frame rail". Its tied into the hydrolic brake system and clutch cable. It allows you to push in the clutch, hit the brake pedal and release brake pedal on a hill. So now you can just sit there, clutch in, shifter in 1st, ready to release and GO! No roll back. However most ppl who have used a clutch for any length of time can just go from brake to clutch so quickly the roll back is hardly noticable and or none at all. Not sure which models came with it. Someone else can prolly better answer that question. Hope this clarifies.

I entertained this idea. After lots of phone calls, web searching, and number crunching it wasnt worth it to me. Cost was still high and there are pros and cons to consider (as noted in previouse posts here).

Bah don't feel silly. Those that would think you silly for asking are not worth your time to worry about. What matters is you figured it out

In a straight line? Sounds like the inner DOJs. Do you have your Fuji stock lift cranked in? Were they brand new? Cheap remanufactured? Swaped from a parts car? Are your motor and tranny mounts shot? Some things to consider.

He just said the board will still be here...

Plans? He's got a shop. Time to whip up some custom stuff!

I used it once after I learned I had it and went "WHOA THATS COOL" then I never used it again. Another cool option on an old Subaru that hardly any other vehicles came with but for some reason I never use it. I have no issue just letting off the brake and getting going on a hill; even really REALLY steeep hill climbs offroad where someone stops at the peak and forgets you are still behind them!

Salvageablue? I spose.... Better canidates at junkyards around the nation? For sure!

Engine does not have to be running to turn on head lights. Ignition switch does need to be on to turn on head lights. Either in Acc. or with engine running. There are a few grounds that go from car to tranny; were all replaced when you got the new tranny in? I'd say check fuses, but wouldnt that kill them totally? Thats my only ideas right now :-\

A possibility, yes. Check fire order also. Someone might have put it in 180 off then rearranged the fire order to make it work.... or they thought they knew what the fire order was, setup the dizzy and wires then kept stabing it untill it finally started (180 degrees off).

Thats what I just said but deleted it.... I think he's saying they are now only on with the engine runing? Pyro pls clarify !_!

I know what you mean man. When I lived in an apt. it was hell doing even simple repairs. Many a repair was done on the side of the street when the parking lot was full or in the lot quickly before the manager saw me and got on my case. Even when I started renting HALF of a garage from them... it had no power to it. I had to tap into the exteranl light's circut during the day when the lights were off and then I only had power at night when the lights were on. McBrat's qoutes sound damn reasonable for a complete swap. I'm talking dropping off the car and an engine and driving it home. It's a lot of work so labor costs are gonna be high. Gotta do what ya gotta do; DIY is great but not always feasable. Good luck!

I wouldnt mind seeing a brand new hatchback with the H6, 4WD dual range, adjustable pneumatic suspension, and such on the road. *dreams on*

"Alumiseal" is the only stuff I've seen work first hand on several different cars. However I'm still not a big fan of magical HG fixes in a bottle; they dont fix the problem just allow you to put off the unavoidable end.

Rage the Yokohama Geolander AT

Sounds like the distributor was not stabed in properly. Roll the engine by hand over to 8 BTDC and pop the dizzy cap off. Rotor should be pointing pretty much to #1. If it's not then you need to pull the dizzy out and restab it. Get it as close as possible and then try to time it with the light. Might take a few stabs to get it just right; the teeth are a taiperd mesh so the rotor pivots a little as you slide it in making it harder.

Wish I could! My wife will be far too pregnant to be sleeping in a tent and in no mood for my silly Subaru antics She's due in AUG so thats why I might not be able to make it....

Might be worth your time to pull the VIN, find out who it was last registerd to, give them a call. They just might have that rim laying around with a flat tire on it.

It's definatly on my long range scope Black Hills would be sweet. Des Moines area would be more centralized. We could have it in McBrat's back yard for all I care; just as long as we got Subarus and a BBQ I'm happy

They sure know how to go big with Subarus in Iceland; those tires are of epic porportions.

4x140mm bolt pattern

Thank you for your service Patrick. Hope this isn't pre-mob training; we need you CONUS for Subaru OPS Good luck sir.

It's my understanding fuel systems are vented for saftey reasons. Gas is continuously evaporating and it could build upto dangerouse levels in your tank. Back in the day they just vented the tank to the atmosphere cuase frankly it was easy. Just like how they vented crank case gases to the atmosphere. Nobody gave a rip back then