MorganM

Close but no cigar. If you lift a wheel you are still screwed with an LSD; the one in the air is gonna spin. However it's still a nice upgrade; definatly the next level in traction control if you have open rear diff.

Oh man I MUST have one of those factory guards WITH winch

I jack up on main crossmembers or heavy suspension parts where rust hasnt taken its toll so badly.

You make one?

Howdy

The rear porportioning valve on my EA82 was complete garbage so I sent it where it belongs. Ran new lines directly from the cabin down to the calipers. I've made some pretty hard stops since then and havent had any problems that everyone warned me about. Might be due to the large tires; its really hard to lock them up! If it's on there and in good shape; use it. If you are in the same boat I was and its rotted away to nothing forcing you to run new lines anyway; dont feel bad about skipping the $125 part and plumbing your own lines.

Sometimes ya gotta live and learn. Let her blow this tranny up good. Then when she calls you to fix it you can remind her how simple and easy it is to prevent this

Time for a fluid change. Get all the lovely stuff she ground off out of there. How long will it last? Who knows... tell her to start saving for a 5spd now

*chimes in* I've had seriouse problems with the fuel pumps stock location. Offroading up near Little Falls I ripped the bracket clean off. The whole thign was just dangeling by the fuel lines and electrical wires! I drove 200 miles home before I even realized it. Since then I have relocated it directly above the stock location; now it's inside the cabin. Completly up and out of the way and will never get ripped off while offroading again Drawbacks are present however. The thing is noisy! Also its a slight hazard having it in the cabin. However I'm not paranoid about such things; I'm confident in my install and its held true for thousands of miles now. It was a really easy mod. The holes are already in the unibody. Simply pull the rubber plugs out and run the lines. For a super clean install; drill out the rubber plugs the same diameter of the hose and run the hoses through the holes in the plugs. Now replace the plugs and you wont have to worry about the sharp edge of the unibody wearing through the fuel lines. Can even use a little bit of silicone sealant if you want a water tight seal there!

You are not alone; several others have decided No, its not worth it. EFI 4 TEH WIN!

Yeehaw! Seafoam Im picking up a free Loyale on SAT. Just gonna show up with a tool puuch and a can of sea foam and drive away with a big on my face! As for when to run it; I use it as a cleaning product. Not really as a constant addative. In your crank case it gets cooked off pretty fast so its not like you add a can and it stays in there for 3000 miles. I use it like a Vics Vapor Rub for my engine Like when my lifters were ticking REALLY bad. I added a full can to the crank case. Drive around 50 miles, drained the oil, added new oil and another can. Drove around 100 miles giving it the Italian tune-up (read: high RPMs!) Again drained the oil but this time just replaced with oil. No more lifter tick'n and I havent heard them tick since

Your car comes with this fancy thing called a jack; give it a shot! Borrow some jack stands or huge blocks of wood for saftey.

Thats what I did. It drives just fine down the road with out all those fancy wires plugged in. I plugged in what connectors directly plugged in; the rest are zip tied out of the way.

1) Easiest I've seen it removed is a huge crescent wrench. I use impact gun or 18" breaker bar with 4' cheeter. 2) If you have no AC equiped then yes its normal to have no clutch fan. Just the electric fan will keep you cool. Make sure the thermoswitch is kicking it on properly. 3) Open diffs all around; unless you have rear LSD. You can check the tag on your rear diff cover for LSD in large letters. Binding doesnt start at the diffs; they arent the problem. Its how 4WD is setup; the transfer case LOCKS the power split 50/50 front/rear. On an AWD model you have a center differential that can slip front/rear and this prevents binding. With 4WD you gotta let the tires slip to release bound up tension; hence why it should be used in low traction situations.

We still love you :-p

235/75R15 are 28.9 inches tall. I run them on my 88 GL. It's quite easy to spin them on dry pavement with stock EA82 SPFI and my clutch never slips.

Those look perdy good and can't beat the price for a pusedo MT. I wouldnt hesitate to run them. I run Wal-Mart Liberator ATs; the budget AT tire If you have a little more to spend on tires; you can get General Grabber MTs and Kumho Venture MTs pretty darn cheap. Someone out west ran spare rims. I wont try and remember who because I'll wrong. Hopefully they will see the thread and reply. From what I know though you'd be hard pressed to find a shop that will mount real tires to a spare rim in this great age of liability and civil suits. Sounds like you know how to or have the hook up on getting them mounted; rage it !_! What is the backspacing on those rims? Just an eyeball with a tape measure from mounting surface to rims edge would be fine

True, true... *dreams on*

Holes in the unibody for the outer diff hanger brackets were not drilled on mine. I could tell exactly where they went; as the unibody had a hole drilled in the first layer of the body but it wasnt fully drilled out or tapped. Pretty easy to drill out though and I just self-tapped with some taiperd tip bolts

My '88 had the 4WD gas tank even though it was 2WD; check that before you go swaping in the rear end

I prolly should have specified ID. This was prices for abour 2" ID for say radiators and such.

I just want the XT 'L' style steering wheel. Factory Subaru upgrade !_!

Excellent info; I'll check the outer arms and see if they have tweaked. Doesnt apear to my worthless eyes that one corner is sitting lower than the other; but that's nto saying much. I'll bust out the tape measure and see if one bumper corner is lower than another.

I'd swap the whole rear main subframe. Then you have all the holes, brackets, etc for the rear diff and such. Heck then you could swap it all in as a single assembly... least thats what I did on my old GL wagon conversion. Your milage may vary How hard is it? It's a lot of work! This isnt a weekend repair; its a project.

I'd just replace them. They arent THAT critical of a part anyway; so if cost is the issue wait a month or two and save some pennies for them