MorganM

Oilpump housing should be fine. You can buy a new impeller. With that and a complete reseal kit for it I'd think it would be just like new.

When my last alternator was acting funny everyone said "well check yer grounds son!". So I've pulled every ground I could find, cleaned up the terminal end on the wire with sand paper, cleaned up the contact surface with sand paper, applied a little dielectric grease to the terminal end, and remounted the ground. Any questionable ground was replaced wtih a slightly larger ground. I also added one big one from engine to unibody, tranny to unibody, and battery to unibody. Soldering connections is great for automotive electrical circuts. Its a very secure connection, can be properly water sealed using shrink tube, and provides a connection with out any voltage drops. A lot of times crimp on and solderless wire connectirs (wire nuts) get all corrouded up in by the crimp connection. Used both quite a bit now and the crimp on/wire nuts always fail first. Grounds are good

Only on EA81. EA82's oil pump is quite different. Worst I've had in removing one was broke a bolt head off

The 'fan shroud' can be removed but watch your fingers from then on and be sure to warn others who might be near your open engine bay. Hard to say on the 4WD issue. Jack it up and look for anything bent or loose. Looks good then put a few miles on it and see whats up.

Feel free to post your results and ask more questions if it continutes after a tune up and Oxygen sensor.

Yeah I'm in the server room at the exhange server rack; no seats! Acutally they don't let me in the server room unattended :-p Hmm I remember a bung and fitting on mine and then a hose upto the engine bay. Can't recall where I unplugged it from under the hood. Might just be fore late model EFI modles? :-\

Lots of ways to do it; upto you which path to take I certainly know what you mean about rusty bolts

HEY! Damn Iweejuns all steal'n our BRATS! Lots of love for Iweejuns; I grew up there Moving to MN from IA; people think you are moving from Mars when in all reality Minnesoduns are the ones living on their on weird and crazy planet!

Yah its a pretty good calc. Don't get me wrong though the Miata tire calc is good in its own way also. It's GREAT for comparing two different sized tires to see how they are different from one another. I really wish the Miata one had everything all inclusive Have not realy dug around on the net much though; there just might be an ultimate supremo tire calculator out there!

I bust the nut free on the oil pump drive gear before taking off the timing belts as they will hold it tight enough. Then pull the belts off and pull the pump off the motor.

Poke around the Photo Gallery also; seen several in there.

Thats seriously lazy. Its just as much work to cut that half shaft as it is to pull a single bolt and a spring pin. On that level of lazyness you could just leave the whole darn axle in but DOJ off the stub at the tranny. Then use bailing wire to tie up the axle so it isnt flopping around. Don't take offense when someone sees it and asks you 'wtf?'

Thats very rare around here! Only BRATs I've seen near here are Kurt's, Archemiti's old one, and one I saw just outside Hudson.

I prefer using Interco's tire calc. Gives you the actual section width; Miata tire calc doesn't tell you width; just diameter. Width is very key to know when going with bigger tires on Subarus. http://www.intercotire.com/html/metric-tire.htm

I stand corrected then; it is part of the emissions control system. I'd have to say it does both jobs also but its main job, as you noted, is an oxidizer. Now that I think about it; that does explain the air injection tube on the side of it

What you ask is possible; RWD Loyale. To get enough side-to-side slop in the axle you'll need to undo the main bolt holding the control arm to the main crossmember. Drive out the spring pin in your axle's inner DOJ. Now you can pull on the bottom of the kunckle assembly with one hand, and pull on the DOJ with your other hand; should slide right off the stub at the tranny. Hopefully you broke loose the castle nut on the outer end of your outer CV's stub while the weight of the car was on the tire Take off the main castle nut there and pound out the CV stub. Use a block of wood between BFH and stub so you dont chew up the threads. In order to hold your hub/bearing assemblies all together you need to put that stub back in. Pound the CV off of the half shaft and throw the halfshaft with inner DOJ still attached off to the side. Replace CV with stub back into your hub. Put the bolt holding your control arm back on. Now repeat for other side and you got a RWD Subaru. This is a rough over view; not a How To. Good luck!

There are these little plastic snap rings that snap in the hole on the rim; then the center cap snaps into the plastic rings. The snap rings are more rare than the center caps as they break alot easier.

Yep, $100 Subaru's rule! They aren't about the looks though LOL Beats running around town on a scooter (well, atleast warmer )

Awsome !_! How much did that custom drive shaft set you back?

Hmmmm how about thinknig BIG Like farm implement and military implement; someone's gotta supply those big dogs with big bolts! Just a thought; good luck!

Don't sound bad to me. Try it on some grass or gravel and shifting in/out of 4WD with out the tires turned. Should enguage rather smoothly then. Mine is pretty 'clunky' on even wet pavement and requires quite a bit of force to shift back to 2WD.

I'd have to agree with calebz; higher output ALT .... or less lights? Maybe you could force the lights to use battery power isolated off your main power circut when they are one. Then switch the battery back online after you are done with the lights to recharge it. You'd be pulling mad amp draw from a battery and not your alternator.

BFG AT's are great offroad; MT's are better

BFG... what? AT? TA? MT? :-\ AT's are quiet. TA's are wussier than the AT's so I'd imagine they are quiet. Never heard their MT's above 15mph.

To answer your question on exhuast components.... Headers -> catalyitc converter (these both make your Y pipe) -> resinator -> midpipe -> muffler -> tail pipe Do a compression test all around before you throw down several hundred dollars on exhuast.