northguy

One word - Brat. But then, I'm biased.

Kelly, I can't help with your question, but good to hear of your triumph over motor goblins. Next step = LIFT!

That goes without saying. Your quality speaks for itself and your reputation is sterling. John, thanks again for your fine work and generous prices.

Now how would you know what a stuck pig sounds like? - WAIT, I don't really want to know.

Tell you what - If you drive it here, I'll give you a grand for it and a plane ticket home.

Buy a block heater instead and plug it in.

Looks pretty sweet - nice score.

1. Stock Hitachi 2. Not much real off road - putzing around - does fine OK on highway but no real dynamo - wish I didn't have to contend with IM, I'd have a weber on it in a flash

Hey look guys, Valentine's day was just yesterday. Where did the love go?

If you bend the knees or cut off the head he'll fit in the trunk just fine. That's what you meant, right?

cancer in the engine compartment around the strut towers. Almost all other rust is repairable. Strut tower rust is fatal.

They aren't critical, but for about a quarter apiece, you should be able to replace them and then you don't have to worry about your shroud blowing off the car at 85mph. It just looks better if all of the holes are filled, too.

Year and make of car would help. So would the location of the pins. Are you referring to the plastic pins that act as anchoring devices in the plastic trim buttons on the bottom shroud of the shield trim?

Loyale glass and DL/Gl gass is diferent and the install methods are dissimilar also. The removal of glass from a "glued-in" application is best done with a utility knife from both inside the car (cutting closely next to the glass and pinchweld) and then from the outside along the edge of the glass. The old wire method may work but a heated wire next to a piece of tempered glass will cause it to explode. The Dl/Gl glass may very well be rubber set (I don't rightly recall) but even if not so, you shouldn't be battlingthrough urethane - only butyl.

Nikfu - welcome to the board. We'll keep you posted on the next meet and greet. Good to see another Alaskan.

Good score, Rob. What are you going to do with them?

Since you are subject to IM inspections, a weber isn't an option, but you could send out a call for help to see if there is a Hitachi available on the board. I'd bet there are several. Also, you could check e-bay to see if there's one there. Depending on where you are in CA, you may be able to con another board member to help you with the swap, if you're not comfortable doing it yourself. Also, as to the clutch cable, WD 40 is good for displacing the water that may be in your cable - it's not good for lubrication, though. Hit the cable with ample WD 40, then lube it.

Hudmud, welcome to the board. There are several members in WI, and a bunch in the midwest. If you play around with the search function you will be able to dig up answers to most any question you may have about Subbies in the archives. You can also access the subaru repair manual for information. Good luck and welcome once again.

Very polished and professional. Great job.

I'd love to upgrade to a weber and a new exhaust, but I've got to deal with stinking IM standards.

Wagons, how can you have over 2 million miles on various cars and not one of them is a Brat? - I know , the name , Wagons Only, but not even one Brat in the whole stable? That's unAmerican.

GOOOAAALLLLL!!!!! How could you go wrong with a Brat? Even if there were rust in the bed?

One couldtry putting the reflective tape on the underside. It might help.

That's too nice. I'm just happy I don't live closer to you guys or I'd be constantly broke getting all of the mods you think up. Nice job, again.

Welcome to the board. You may want to be more specific about where in Oregon. There are a myriad of members from OR that you may want to get to know.