northguy

I get around 22 mpg in my carbed Brat. I certainly wouldn't moan too much at 16+ in a turbo. (Especially with a heavy foot).

They run a lot of Fox shocks on snowmachines, 4 wheelers, bikes... up here, but I haven't heard of automotive application. You're right about the spendy part - over 2 bills for snowmachine shocks. Too high for me.

Turbone - the deck of the bridge is regular old concrete covered with asphalt. But you guys may be right - it might just be catching on the few non-snow covered spots on the road. Just very weird feel and tenuous conditions to be driving at 45 mph. BWM - just using it as my daily driver, but I have to admit I have found a few new backroads around my place. Thanks to all for the input. It sounds like it's functioning the way it was designed to.

It's like if I'm driving straight down the road and suddenly there is a power surge to one or the other front wheels. There are no grinding noises, or clunks associated with axle problems, and two wheel drive works fine. 4WD digs in like nobody's business going uphill. ???

All tires same - brand new set or studded snows just put on about 2 months ago. All at the same time. When I drive uphill, the 4wd unit pulls like mule. It works great - won't even slip going up my drive, which is quite steep, ask Snowman. But if I'm going say 45mph in 4th gear, it is a bit scarey, feels like it could start to go sideways at any moment. Not too comforting as you are approaching oncoming traffic on a steel girder bridge.

Maybe it's nothing to be concerned with, but it seems unnatural to me. When I put my gen 2 brat (83) into 4wd, the front drive unit pulls to one side or the other. I'll be cruising along and suddenly it'll pull hard to the right or the left (it varies?). Is it normal? It makes driving in 4wd very squirrely. Any ideas?

Zapar was trying to sell his hatch a few weeks back. If it's still for sale, that's the one to buy.

Man, thant's worse thana lump of coal.

Well, at least 3 hp+ for the cool blue color alone. I wonder if I can get one with multiple neon-colored wires, like lime green, hot pink, day-glo orange...?

Happy Holidays from the North. No new subbie under the tree for me. I must have been bad this year.

TJ, probably best to e-mail Jon. His PM box is often full. If I see him this week, I'll let him know you're trying to contact him.

Alias, for as many responses as you've written on this topic in the last 2 months, you should know better than about anyone else whether or not it'll make it to Calgary. If I had to lay odds, I'd go with your call on it. Happy Holidays.

Welcome to the board. As for the ticking noise, can't say how serious it is without hearing it/more info. If in doubt, there's an excellent resource just down the road from you in Sacramento -Subaru Junkie - long time board member. Take a road trip to his place and have him take a look at it. As far as CCR is concerned, there have been a ton of good comments written here about them. Happy Holidays.

Sorry Q Man, I got you confused with Turbone. Thanks for straightening me out on the penetrant.

Was it Turbone a while back that had some penetrating oil that really works? Ask around. That may be a good start.

That must have been the repair shop run by Ben Dover.:-)

I recall Richie talking about a power steering swap he did. You may want to contat him.

$2, $5, $10, $21. x 4 cylinders = a maximum of $84 over 60,000 miles - still cheap considering you're not doing any kind of tune-up in between. But the clincher is that you're looking at messing with the performance of a $20,00 + vehicle. I'd just put in oem specs and not quibble. But hey, that's part of the reason I drive an 83 Brat - I'm miserly (cheap). If I destroy the engine in it, I've already got a replacement sitting under the front steps of the house.

Pull this thread over to the side of the road, you two, and get out. There'll be nohijacking of threads before Christmas. Seriously, start a new one. Your ideas for a new thread are worthy, and this guy is trying to get his clutch fixed.

The proper sealant to use is urethane, but if you want the bond to stick over the years, both the glass and the rubber need to be primed. There is two different primers and a tube of urethane invilved in this repair = about $15. Cheaper to take a six-pack to the local glass shop and say "Hey man, can you fix me up, here?" It works every time. Most shops will do it for free to promote their business in hopes that the next time you need a new shield, you'll come there.

If you're going to tear it that far down you might as well do a complete overhaul and be done with it for another 100k.

Check Ozzified's website . I think he has kits that are larger than 3". 4" for sure and maybe larger. But whether he has them for gen 1's, I'm not sure. PM P K Davis.

How much do you want to put into it? It could be a money pit that you'll never recoup. Personally, I'm going to lift mine this Spring and keep it on the road until it rusts badly (probably 2 -3 years here) and then turn it into a mudder. My .02.

In addition, there's been a guy from Scotland posting lately. Good luck with it.

If you're not going to fix it, either put it up whole, or part it out. The money you'll make will pay for hauling the cadaver off. If you put it up for sale as is, at a low enough price, someone will haul it off for you. Done deal.