northguy

If you're thinking about 86ing the air ride and going to regular struts, I recall back in July I searched the archives and found a aprticularly good set of articles that dealt with the different struts and mods needed - name brands and costs - to make the swap. It would be worth the time to do the search.

If you don't have abs brakes, count yourself fortunate. They are the worst for trying to stop while going down icy hills.

4 for 4, there's the answer - move to a place where it doesn't get cold.:-)

If it's a stock car (no lift) I believe Battle_Wagon_Medic told me I could fit 195/70/13's on my Brat. Should fit on yours also.

Always go with the free-to-inexpensive fixes first. Then progress to those that will cost money. Clean ther anodes and connections.

I can't believe I forgot three of the most important aspects of driving un snow: 1. WEAR YOUR SEATBELT 2. bring an extra set of warm clothes or a sleeping bag - here we call it survival gear as it could be a day or two before you'll see someone come by if you arehopelessly stranded in the ditch and 3 - "going 90 ain't so scary long as I got the Virgin Mary mounted on the dashboard of my car"

Whose old school lifter roos are thosein the owner's pics section? One has a WA plate, the other has an OR plate.

All of the advice in the world does not substitute for experience. A 1" snowfall in South Carolina will prove that everytime. When braking in snow, don't do like my wife - do not push the clutch in. Let the motor help to slow you down and keep the AWD engaged.

Wow! What's the inclinometer inside of that reading; like 45 degrees?

Check the connection on the battery terminals. Sounds like you're holding the switch open long enough to finally get a connection, then it goes. Clean the posts and inside of the cables.

Didn't want to jack someone else's post, so I'll start my own. When it's cols (5 and below) my tach won't work. It'll pop up to 2 grand or higher if you rev the motor after start up and staf there, frozen - please pardon the pun. When it warms up, 10 or 15 min, it works fine. Any thoughts?

A friend had a speedo that didn't work in the cld. The cable shrank and spun until it warmed up. Same with my tach. But I doubt it gets cold enough in OR for that to be the problem.

Bitburger Pils, jaegerschnitzel, and some of that renowned product form Amsterdam (ah, the good old days). Have fun, stay out of trouble - the Polizai don't play around - and come back safely. Are you leaving your keys in the ignition? Promise we won't romp on it too hard.

Congrats. Crank it up and let it rip.

That could prove to be an expensive experiment.

My money is on problem #1.

If I come home and find my Suzuki 4 wheeler up on blocks, I know where to go looking now, Jon.

Try running some Mystery Marvel Oil to help with the stickiness. That might just do the trick and then you won't need a new motor. 130k is when they are just getting broken in.

Wow, man. That was hardly a birthday present. Hope things work out better for you in the future.

If it just gets to be too much of a headache, you could always disconnect the light in the dash. As long as you can discern whether it's in4wd or not, the light is merely cosmetic.

I frequent a local shop that charges me $10 to change and dispose of oil and filter if I bring in my own. Not bad when I'm in a hurry.

In addition, check the tensionof the fan belt that drives the alternator. Getting it wet may have caused it to slip, making it not charge. Dry it and put a bit of belt dressing on it if it's taught enough.

Sure, but you could just PM it to him, he's in Haines now conversing from his computer there.

The fluid was tan and foamy? Normally the fluid should be almost clear, and the foamy part is either air being whipped into it, or water, I would guess. My 4sp whines in 4th, but performs fine. It's just a whiner.:boohoo: