NoahDL88

The Geminette II, a EA-82 GL or Loyale an isuzu, umm it looks like a subaru to me.

Saw this on a yahoo subie group, it looks like they remount the control arm and lengthen the lower a arm. i don't know the practicality of this lift idea but i thought i'd share it none the less http://usmb.net/gallery/album176 It could work well with a PK lift, giveing one more inch or so at the corners

You'll loose about 15-20% power with the CNG, but its a great idea, i don't know about your refueling structure over there in france, but over here it would only work in the big cities. because its a gas, not a liquid the engine burns a lot cleaner and unlike petrol there won't be any condensation on the cylinder walls so it should last longer, longer than 300,000 isn't bad!! If its already done from the factory i can't see any reason not to, but if you plan a conversion it may be a little bit tricky, but still may be worth doing. Bonjour and welcome to the board

It should be pretty easy to work around, its only the small coolant hose that gets in the way, if it was cut flush and pluged off then it wouldn't be a problem, but the issue would still remain about where to route the hose as it comes out from the block.

the engine swap didn't go so well, i'm waiting on a manifold from McBrat, many thanks, and after that she should be good to go.

thanks, Mcbrat. Noah, the other manifold won't work cause the coolant tube next to the thermostat hits the vacuume advance, and there is also the usual issue of the accelerator pump on the weber hitting the disty cap. but that shouldn't be too big of an issue that seems to happen on all of them.

16mm min

thank you McBrat for such wonderful mail So after i wrote this i remembered that i need a dip stick tube, not the dipstick but the tube that goes into the block, there wasnt' one on the engine when i got it, and other than that i think i have everything, thanks to a girlfriend that dosn't mind making trips to part stores.

Sorry for the yelling, but i ran in to a big problem when swapping my engine out. I was planing on useing an EA-82 carby intake but it dosn't clear the coolant hose that goes to the block under the carburetor, so i have run into a big problem as you can see. Now i have a question, can the Weber adaptor from the EA-82 fit on the EA-81 manifold? cause if it can thats great, if its not i need a new adaptor and intake manifold. and to make matters worse spring vacation starts in one week, so i need it by wednesday if possible, so Austin, if you got one spare, that would be great, even better if its got the adapter plate. The Quick and dirty I need an EA-81 Carby manifold and a weber 32/36 adapter plate Thanks in advance to anyone that has one!!

those compression figures sound pretty bad, the 90-75 on the drivers side sound real low and the 90 on the passenger side is pretty bad too, but because its alone, although 110 is pretty low as well, its probably not a head gasket. Assuming this is the 9.5 short block and not the 7.7 the compression ratio is kind of disheartening. sounds like its time for new rings and valves.

ok maybe not the neatest but i definately got real excited when i found it. http://www.janis.or.jp/users/shimy048/CarIndex.htm Its in Japaneese, no i don't know what they say but the pictures speak a thousand words

I'm gonna have to jump in and say that if the motor is stock then run what the factory reccomends, I would tend to agree with those that designed and tested the car over hearsay and personal beliefs. however, if its modded, run what you need to keep her from pinging. RussHill, if yours is pinging, try seafoam or top engine cleaner, that should get rid of some of the carbon in the cylinders and intake and return the inside of your motor to more 87 friendly territory.

For starters i know i'm losing horse power compared to the EA-82, but with the loss of the timing belts i'm gaining a whole lot more reliability. Engine mods: Ea-71 pistons heads shaved .015 1.70/1.42 valves Delta Cam torque grind Disty Recurve Acell coils and wires 32/36 Weber High flow exhaust to come soon So with those mods it should do ok, i hope Anyway, i'll probably be doing this on Sunday, and i'll have my friends digital camera so if there are any picture requests along the way let me know, cause i know swapping parts is always tricky even with pics, so if you have any ideas of what to shoot I'll try to get them. As far as Clutch stuff i'm running in front of the 88 GL Dual range 5spd EA-81 Flywheel, 84+ with 9" face EA-82 pilot bearing, apparantly its the same EA-81-82 EA-82 pressure plate EA-82 Clutch EA-82 Throw out bearing.

Research octane is measured at a lower RPM with colder intake air, the Motor octane is measured at a higher speed and temperature, which more accurately resembles a real engine.

In a related note, i finnaly got my engine from them, its a beauty, and i'm really excited about getting it in my car, except that there is no crank pully. so now i have to wait a few more days to find one of those. not their fault, it was an item i thought was part of the long block, and i didn't ask, and we all know what happens when you assume. but thats ok, it gives me another 3 days to do cusome urathane motor mounts.

Went to the parts store and found out todayt that the part number for the pilot bearing for the clutch is the same for EA-81 and EA-82 at least according to car quest.

Austin, are you saying that the EA-82 pilot bearing is ok in an EA-81 flywheel? Cause as i have it figured for install tomorrow its... EA-81 Flywheel EA-82 throw out bearing EA-82 Pressure plate EA-82 Clutch EA-8? Pilot bearing.

hense the pull the spark plug and feel for compression, as the piston comes up it wil push air out the spark plug hole, that is TDC compression not Exhaust.

If you have Fuel injection, an O2 sensor is vital, if you don't have one your car will run rich and give you bad fuel economy and ruin your catalitic converter. there is no horse power increase without the O2.

since 1 and 2 are on opposite rod journals, ie, both out at the same time, if 1 is at TDC compression then 2 is at TDC exhaust

Hey Knight, what kind of car you got, if its carby it could be a whole bunch of carby issues, not my specialty, but if its SPFI, thats a whole different ball game, check fuel filters, there are two on older cars. replacing the fuel filter is always the best place to start, if its sluggish thats different than hesitation which could be from a bad TPS. I found that on the SPFI cars if you disconnect the battery for a half hour and then reconnect it seems to reset the keep alive memory and can often make the car run better. Top engine cleaner, or seafoam can help out a sluggish problem sometimes, especcially on older vehicles, these subies seem to get mad valve buildup.

whats your location, it might be easier and cheaper to get a new head at the junkyard. however unless your in the Pacific North West that may be easier said than done. I don't know prices on new valves in heads, but there will be a certain amount of machining to be done to make the new valve fit, it would be bennificial at this time to get both heads off and put in all new valves and guides, and possibly seats if there hammered

take out all spark plugs, that will make the engine turn over easier, then put your thumb or someone elses on cylinder one spark plug hole, when it sounds like a pfft, ie its compressing, thats TDC on the intake, turn it until the piston is as high as it can go and voila, also look at the rockers as a clue they should both be closed.

just a word of caution, unless you have the anti knock requirements, ie; the manual says use XX octane, use 87, it dosn't help the engine to use a higher octane, it infact reduces power, unless you advance the timing it won't do a dang bit of good. on a turbo engine, absolutely use 90 but on an 83 hatchback for instance you don't really need anything above 87.

the theory behind retorqueing is that after the gasket gets compressed it becomes loose again, and a retorque tightens it up again, it can only compress so much so it only needs one retorque, its not a bunch of hooie, its not a warranty voider, theres good science to this. Oiling the threads puts the maximum torque to the head and not the threads, when torquing a bolt much of the force can be used to just turn it and not clamp it, if the threads are oiled more force is claming force and not turing force and you get a better seal.