NoahDL88

Have you tried the usual additions of marvel mystery oil to the engine oil?

Dang, i'm busy this weekend. I found a bottle of "water wetter" in the garage, maybe keep the water in your radiator happier. How did those intake gaskets work out?

a crack between the intake and exhaust valves is usually nothing to worry about. every head I've taken off has had that crack with no issues. Its hard to diag over the internet, I'd see if you can find a new head, and go from there. I'm not 100% but the solid and hydraulic lifter heads may be different, so you may have to make sure you get the right one.

1mm on a cylinder head is like climbing Everest Could be a cracked head?

I believe it will, but you won't like it. Also, the single range 4wd transmission has a 3.9 final drive, so you may have to swap a new rear diff if you have and RX model, the rear diff has a big sticker on the back of it to double check.

Lynnwood, Wa

I know Ratty2Austin is planning on doing this exact swap into his 96. Rear diff to match 3.9, I know my 94 LGT is 4.11 I don't think the starter changes, I'm not 100% but I'm pretty sure it won't make a difference. We'll let you know what we find out, when we swap his out

We'll be here all week, don't forget to tip your waitress Good luck, these cars are "mechanics cars" they are straightforward and easy to work on if you take your time and don't rush.

Check for vacuum leaks, they can do what you describe.

aftermarket parts are really hit or miss on these cars, thermostats in particular are generally best to go Subaru only on. I can't imagine you'd save much by going aftermarket on a cap though.

The collapsed hose is a sign that the coolant is going somewhere. I hate to say it, but you might take the cap off when its cold and look for bubbles in the coolant, sure sign of a blown head gasket. A new Subaru OEM cap is cheap insurance though, throw a new one on and see if that makes a difference.

I've shipped an engine before. If you put it on a pallet its not so bad, there are many shipping warehouses to take it to which save quite a bit on the sending end of things. If you can have it delivered to a commercial address that helps a lot too on your end. For some reason its much cheaper than a private address.

your link-foo is weak young padwan OpposedForces

yeah, I did a brake job that I thought was done well, turns out there was a small leak and the next morning the pedal went to the floor.

first start tomorrow, after its sat overnight check how hard the pedal is, just to double check. don't forget to "bed" the pads, about 6 high pressure stops, with about 1-2 minutes cool off time between stops. deserted road down from 45-50 ought to do it. You don't want to stomp on the pads, we're not talking panic stop, but a good assertive stop to get the pads and rotors warm.

Could possibly swing it. What does shipping go for on something that big? would a pallet work best? I worry that shipping might be more than the cost of the seats in the first place.

I can't tell you if they'll fit, but I'll suggest that you use Euro spec headlights instead. In Japan they drive on the "wrong" side of the road. Because of this the beam pattern is backwards for what you need in the USA. instead of getting a pattern that is useful you get a beam that blinds oncoming traffic. Just my .02 FWIW

When you push the pistons in to make room for the new pads you have to pump the brake pedal, 5-10 times, and only about 75% of the way to the floor to get the space you made between the pads to go away. If you pump all the way to the floor there is a small chance that you could push the master cylinder seal to a portion of the cylinder bore that has not been used and could potentially cause the seal to leak. Rare, but it has happened. Oh, and if you have mis-matching calipers you might get that checked out, unless you like a strong pull, or worst case a spinning car.

First off, paragraphs, they are your friend Secondly, Its my understanding that you are now dealing with a no start issue? Check every connection that you unplugged, and then check all the ones you didn't unplug, start maybe with the battery connectors, if they are loose at all you'll get the issue you are describing. I once had a Taurus that wouldn't start because of a bad connection (wasn't mine, don't flame please ) Check for battery voltage, should be at least 12.8, anything more than around 12.2 and you should at least get a weak crank-over. Under the intake is a crank position sensor, if that is not plugged in (plug is near the dog bone between the engine and the tranny) your car won't start, but it'll crank all day long.

A good friend of mine drove through a wall at school and popped both airbags because his lab partner didn't do this but said he did.

Reduce weight, strip out everything you don't need to go down the road. Reduce drag, tape over your door handles, pull down your antenna, remove the roof rack. Ground effects might make a positive difference. Don't forget air resistance on the bottom of your car. Sell wagon, and get an XT?

Those engines are pretty simple to pull and replace. Keep just about everything attached to the intake manifold. You'll have to remove the throttle, hill holder and cruise control cables. fuel lines and most wires can stay on the intake. There are a few plugs on the starboard side of the engine that will need to be disconnected as well as a small coolant hose underneath the manifold. If you don't have AC count yourself lucky, you don't need to open any hoses to get it out of the way though if you do. same as the power steering, it just kinda gets pushed out of the way. 4 bolts hold the engine to the tranny, 6 bolts for the exhaust. jack up the front of the tranny to help clear the engine mounts (2 bolts) when you separate the engine. only special tools I'd recommend are the ratcheting wrench, 14mm; and of course an engine hoist, buying will probably be about the same as renting, especially if you need to use it down the road.

Warranty issue, take it in and have them fix it

Dropping the tank on those is pretty easy, I believe there are just two bolts that hold the straps under the tank, and the fill hose is removed from the gas cap area, should drop right down. Once you've lowered the tank around 6" to a foot you'll have to remove the fuel lines, power wire and the evap hose. once thats out there is a big brass ring that you beat out with a hammer, (like the rear wheel bearing retainer) fuel pump pops out and new one goes in and bob's your uncle. would have been easier on an empty tank though Oh, I'm 99% sure there isn't an access port in the trunk/back seat, but no harm in pulling up the carpet to double check.

By street, I mean no more than the standard 3 inch lift and some 50/50 tires.