NoahDL88

It is in a FSM a friend has my FSM, which happens to be one of those E-bay store copies that leaves out the foldouts so it probably won't have what i need anyway The 10 gajillion FSM scans on the internet also have all left out the SMJ fold out It would be near the front of your FSM book 6 if you have a "real" copy and if you find it would you be a dear and scan it and upload it?

Yes

its the "Super multiple Junction" connector.

Anyone have it, every scan has the "refer to foldout" but nobody seems to have scanned the foldout.

Each application is different, and i've found on EJ's that you're limited by the spring perch on the strut, at least with stock struts. 27 inch swampers don't work, but you should be able to get one size bigger than stock forester wheels.

I believe that the carbs are different between the 79 and the 81, not 100 on that though. Which boots specifically are "exploding" Sorry, no help on the radiator, but any EA-81 radiator should work, so that opens you up to quite a few more options.

Thats largely a matter of opinion, but the EA-81 does not have timing belts, so right there is a large part of the percieved unreliability of the EA-82 ( the engine in your loyale). As long as you keep coolant in it, and change the oil every 3k, she'll run forever.

I thought they were different, but maybe thats just the 5mts, 777 would know more than i do on the subject.

There are a whole host of things that can go wrong with the evap emissions system, if your new cap is sealing, its something else either leaking, or the solenoid isn't venting properly, either way, i'd take it into the dealership and have them put the gas generator up to it so they can identify the leak, or failed component. A good reason to get this fixed is because you don't want a more insidious engine code to be hidden while the evap system is shot.

We drive on the coast all the time out west in WA and OR, and those crazy Australians take their subies out to the beach like mad max is coming or something. <-- I have no idea what that means. Its easily done, just be sure to not give too much gas to get moving, and airing down immidiately when you hit sand to around 20 psi will save you a lot of headache later.

i don't think putting in the spring upside down is gonna shatter your valves, theres probably a correct way that should be followed, but its not gonna compress the stiff end just cause its upside down. Fingers crossed that its not a beaucoup dinero problem.

I don't know what kind of spark plugs you're using, but if you're using bosch plugs that could be one of your issues, NGK's are the ones you should use, and there pretty cheap too. run some intake cleaner through a vacuume line, if a new carb didn't help then it might be real dirty inside the intake. its a long shot, but who knows. if it works well until the choke comes off, you may have a problem with the idle screw, or the screw itself might be the wrong one. also make sure that your distributor is timed right and that it's vacuume line is going to the ported vacuume on the carb.

The reason i advocate removing them is that static electricity can cause them to deploy. Doesn't take much voltage to ruin your day.

pop off a wheel and measure your rotor, with that number you should be able to figure out what brake bits you have.

Probably would, those EJ's are all pretty similar, you may have to swap rails, but thats an easy job. The Spec B will probably have seat airbags, which you won't need in the 95, so i'd reccomend taking them out for safety, you should also be able to get a good price for them if you sell em, but shipping is hard on those as they are technically a pyrotechnic device.

Like Shaman said, its got a torque converter clutch, it improves efficiency, because you are running those 250-500 rpm slower, there great when they work, but i had a ford that had a problem with it, and any speed between 35-55 if you weren't on the throttle or the brakes it would cycle on and off, what a pain.

BTW, if you have stampped steel valve covers, you have the OHV motor, and not the OHC motor, which only has 72 hp :-\

Chiltons couldn't fight there way out of a wet paper bag, at the crank its gonna be what he said, 82 hp, (new) now that its close to 15-20 years old and its got a few miles on it, it'll be closer to 70, and the webber won't do too much, it'll give you some nice off idle accel, where the hitachi is lacking, but it only gives you a few horse at most across the entire rev band, which makes it much more driveable, but if you're like most, without propper tuning, just thowing a webber on her isn't gonna get you winning any races.

I'm gonna take a shot in the dark, but maybe its the gas cap

Try Nasioc.com NoOb Won't be able to do it with just more airflow, He's gonna need a good engine management setup to get the fuel and ignition timing to work with the extra boost pressures and airflow, with out aftermarket fuel control he's gonna blow his motor real quick. Also, does he want 400 at the wheels or the crank?

I'm out, some of us work on saturdays again, My vote is for sundays :cool:

There are 4 bolts holding the engine to the tranny, make sure you have all of them. The hill holder acts as a return spring for the clutch fork, and its rather important in the longevity of the clutch.

i've been running sealed front wheel bearings for about a year now, on the front, and there great. i'd reccomend sealed bearings to anyone. 207S i believe is the part number

I had the 7/16th on my wagon before the motor swap too, it was easier than geting a helicoil in there, and it was much more permanent. Get yourself a tap and die set ( just the size you need, the whole set is mucho dinero), and drill out the hole to clean out the threads and then tap the hole to the size stud that you have. use some loctite on the stud as it goes into the head and you should minimize your problems down the road.

i'd go with what mike said, coolant temp sensor. Also, make sure the easy items like your plugs and wires are good, and check your timing.