NoahDL88

I have an RX tranny sitting in my parents garage in San Diego, and in order to make this work, i would need either a legacy tranny, the 4.44 ring and pinion, and a NA 5mt D/R for the "real" low range. and while i was in there, i think that a 1.5 way LSD would be a nice addition. So, if anyone has any of the above listed, in or around Seattle, let me know, i'll kick out the first prototype and if it works i'll start building them.

I don't know anything about glass and or etching, but i could do the leg work. and get it taken care of. Anything else you need, just let me know.

I've never had a problem in either of my offroad rigs, although i think that the EA-82 was happier on the road without it then the EA-81 was.

If you have a pin, i'm assuming you have a DL, and the pin is pretty easy to get out if you have a hammer and a punch, but what are you speaking of " shifter coupling"? the part at the bottom, if thats what you mean, is not supposed to come undone, unless you pull a snap ring, and if you get it apart without taking out the snap ring, it won't be going back together any time soon.

So if we could find 4.44 gears cut to a legacy gear box, we could even run 4.44? I like you guys down under, when you want somthing you figure it out. Thanks for letting us use your knowledge.

your light tabs will have to be much longer, unless you have really low profile lights.

Never seen one, but i can imagine that the added weight would make your car even slower, and would catch on every branch and rock on the trail. Would i do it, no. would it look neat if you never actually offroaded, sure.

I've been thinking about this too, and if the 4.44 gears can be found for not too much money, then they would be good to go with for a better crawl ratio. My "ideal" transmission would be... RX center diff, as the EJ makes quick starts with 2wd more of a burn out process. AWD/4WD 4.44 or 4.11 gears Front LSD 2WD first gear, if it fits, as its 3.656 instead of 3.545 NA D/R 1.59 Low range I think with the RX center diff, it would be possible to mate the 4.11 or the 4.44 JDM gears into the D/R transmission The AWD Diff lock RX tranny has a longer pinion shaft, so the 4.11 gears, which are also AWD would probably need the RX pinion and rear "t-case" and not be able to use the part time unit.

We got a couple of beef Subies for that

This should be in the vendor area.

Thats a valid question, if anyone thinks they have more power from a K&N on a stock motor, its only cause they are now using a higher end of the rev band, so the motor only feels more powerful, when in-fact its not, and you are only using the more powerful end of the powerband.

Switching sides used to cause problems in the bias ply days, not an issue anymore, unless your tires are directional. At the ford dealership we reccomend a rotate every 10k, or every other oil change, its cheap insurance, and you get a close look at your brakes, which is also a good item to keep tabs on.

Make sure that the little rubber stoppers that activate the cancel switches on the clutch pedal and the brake pedal are intact, if there not, the computer will read that you are either always on the brake or the clutch and won't let it engage.

3, the EA-82 fan won't fit, unless you mount it infront of the radiator and make it a pusher. 4, stock Y pipe is fine 5, the stock lines may fit to the EJ pump, but you can cut the tube and flare it with the stock nut to a more manageable length.

My 1980 conversion, done by Austin and Mudrat did the runon, but the one i did, didn't do it, and i wired it differently according to the Kennedy engineering diagram, so that may make a difference.

Well, you're 2 months late on that one, and the shaft was looser than my last..... anyhoo. definately not a turbo i'd touch even with a 10 foot pole.

Dang, i got all excited too, but then realized that you live too far away, also, my best wishes to your son.

If it hasn't been mentioned, i'll throw my hat into the ring and say 9am. Not too early, but we still get a full day out of it. I may get there a little early so that i can put in the 4th axle, and see if there are any cute girls at the Micky-deez that want to go muddin.

I'm partial to channel 5, but 2 will work, i'm at exit 212

I'm not quite Mt vernon, but i'm in StanWOOd i could wait by the exit and jump on the highway when i see you guys coming down the road:burnout:

If you're gonna get an electric motor big enough to turn a jet big enough to move the less than ideal hydrodynamic Subie through the water, you're gonna need one hell of a good generator, which would then make your car the SS Titanic, instead of the SS Waterwagon. Just my .02 However, if you were to drill into the pinion of the rear diff, and add a good seal to the back of the diff case, and ran a rod out the rear, you could bolt on a prop, and have that spin when you engage 4WD

I've only got 1 fan on my EJ swap with the EA rad, i'm definately gonna need to get a second fan, maybe even the EJ radiator before summer, as even in the winter, she likes to get hot on long uphills with the wheels churnin the white stuff.

So what is the designation of these motors? Venus Motors And finding a motor from a 22B, I'm sure that every 22B that was made is still on the road, or so horribly mangled that the best body guys couldn't put it back together again. And that the engine was snagged up within 20 minutes of it being "totaled"

Noah wants an EJ20G preferably a Red top STi with the AVCS much more capable then the EJ22 with the EJ25 heads. Approx 280+ HP

could also be an idler bearing, or a tensioner pully, those seem to make funny noises when there about to let go, also check your oil level, which i'm sure you did as soon as you heard the funny noises. I'd reccomend a technicians stethoscope, with the metal probe end, you can put it to different parts of the entine and determine where the sound is coming from, that way you can narrow down what the noise is from, and not replace parts that don't need it. If you don't know when your timing belts have been replaced, now is a goot time to get in there and take care of them, along with the tensioners and pullys, as well as the water pump, and the seals in the oil pump. don't forget your cam and crank seals either, don't want to have it all together, only to take it apart in 3 months to do a front crank seal.